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		|  09-24-2017, 01:40 AM | #1 |  
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				Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sicklerville,NJ 
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				best way to bleed rear brakes
			 
 
			
			I just replaced all my hoses and metal lines along with the master.  I bled the abs unit and i get fluid out of the front calipers but not the rears.  Ive read the abs needs to activate.  Others say use a scanner, gravity bleed or stop hard on a gravel roadway or even hit the brakes as the car is on jack stands or even bang on the sensor at the rear wheels or unplug the battery and abs electrical connections then bleed.  I dont have that type of scanner unless a store loans them out.  Which way should I go about doing this.
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		|  09-24-2017, 06:33 AM | #2 |  
	| 11 second club / Moderator 
				 
                                        
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			Old school style.  Have someone pump the pedal with slow full pumps.  Third pump they hold, you crack open the bleeder and close it.  Repeat.  If you get nothing, pull the bleeder out completely and make sure its not clogged
		 
				__________________2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
 
 1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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		|  09-24-2017, 08:05 AM | #3 |  
	| Meet Coordinator 
				 
                                        
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			Yup, exactly what Tim said has always worked for me. Very rarely do you have to bleed the abs unit.
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		|  09-24-2017, 09:23 AM | #4 |  
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			Hmm that's what I was doing........
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		|  09-24-2017, 04:13 PM | #5 |  
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			Looks l the fitting for the main front to rear at the valve is the wrong size length wise. It's abut 1/8 shorter than the original and does not hold the flare flush and tight. What a pita. How hard would it be if I cut the new fitting off and add the old correct fitting. I'm worried about trying to double flare stainless
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		|  09-24-2017, 04:15 PM | #6 |  
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				Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Sicklerville,NJ 
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			Here is the old vs new fitting.
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		|  09-24-2017, 05:39 PM | #7 |  
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			never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol
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		|  09-24-2017, 06:50 PM | #8 |  
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			So when the fitting is tight, does the line have play in it? And the stainless has a bubble flare as well? If it were leaking, you should have fluid coming out there. You didn't say either way, just curious. You could even take the rear feed line off and bleed with your finger at the module like you would a master. If you still don't have fluid/pressure, try at the feed line into the module. Nothing there, bleed the master. Fun times! Let us know how you make out. 
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					Originally Posted by 6spdg37s  never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol |  It depends, I've done many complete systems on gmt-800's and have had to bleed the abs module sometimes. Other platforms as well, never an f-body personally.
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		|  09-24-2017, 09:41 PM | #9 |  
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			Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it.  I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning
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		|  09-24-2017, 10:09 PM | #10 |  
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					Originally Posted by cycomiko  Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it.  I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning |  Where did you get the lines?
		 
				__________________John
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		|  09-25-2017, 07:24 AM | #11 |  
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			If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting.
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		|  09-25-2017, 09:43 AM | #12 |  
	| Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
				 
                                        
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					Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider  If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting. |  Yeah, that would be rough to do with a manual flaring tool.
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		|  09-25-2017, 02:09 PM | #13 |  
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			Classic tube made them. They wanted me to cut the original fitting and send it to them and they would add it to a new line. I matched one up from the parts store and sent it to them.
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		|  09-30-2017, 08:49 AM | #14 |  
	| Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator 
				 
                                        
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			On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping.  This seems to be common with stainless lines.  But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS.  I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin.
		 
				__________________69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
 09 Silverado Z71
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		|  09-30-2017, 08:53 AM | #15 |  
	| Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips 
				 
                                        
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					Originally Posted by JL8Jeff   it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping. |  I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks
		 
				 Last edited by PolarBear; 09-30-2017 at 08:53 AM.
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		|  09-30-2017, 10:04 AM | #16 |  
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by JL8Jeff  On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping.  This seems to be common with stainless lines.  But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS.  I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin. |  
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					Originally Posted by PolarBear  I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks |  You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones. 
https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166  588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2  0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
		 
				__________________John
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		|  09-30-2017, 10:46 AM | #17 |  
	| Ebearnezer Scrooge/Power Member/Lips 
				 
                                        
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by Featherburner  You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones.https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166  588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2  0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
 |  Never seen those before. Would probably be a b*tch to put in out of position, but there's no need for them with the stainless
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		|  10-04-2017, 07:05 AM | #18 |  
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			An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum  etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also.  Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it.  The old one was fine......
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		|  10-04-2017, 07:50 AM | #19 |  
	| Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin 
				 
                                        
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by cycomiko  An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum  etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also.  Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it.  The old one was fine...... |  You are talking about a leak between the booster and master, correct? If so, I believe a seal in the master is bad.
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		|  10-04-2017, 08:23 AM | #20 |  
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			I'd put the old one back on if the new one is leaking between the booster and master. As for there being no fluid coming out, it could be some trapped air, not fully engaging the master, or a defective unit.
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		|  10-04-2017, 08:38 AM | #21 |  
	| Hippy Mod, Bergermeister Meisterberger, Moderator 
				 
                                        
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			Did you bench bleed it first?  Sometimes air gets stuck if you don't bench bleed it.  I have one of those bleeder kits and you can watch the fluid go through the clear lines and see if there are tiny air bubbles or if the front is pushing fluid and the rear isn't.  I remember having to really push the pedal all the way on one of my vehicles to get the rear fluid moving.
		 
				__________________69 Z28 JL8 4 wheel disc brakes - being restored
 09 Silverado Z71
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		|  10-04-2017, 09:49 PM | #22 |  
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			Ok Finally! I installed the old still working master and all is ok.  The new master kit did not come with a bleeder kit just the screw in plugs and we bled it on the car with the plugs in and didnt see any bubbles.  I even bought a universal bleed kit and the fittings dont fit. Lol This car fought me to the end on this job.  No problems with the abs either.  Thanks Guys.....
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		|  10-05-2017, 10:33 AM | #23 |  
	| Meet Coordinator 
				 
                                        
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			I usually just stick it in a vise, one guy pushes the plunger with a screwdriver and the other guy holds two cups to catch fluid and puts fingers over holes before the plunger is released. It has never given me an issue. Glad you got it sorted though!
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