Not this again. - Page 88 - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

LS1ow · 06-06-2019, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Don't always base things off CFM. I know that makes no sense, but, there is no standard for testing that and many companies will make the results look great.

IE, air filters.. companies advertise their filter flows 1000cfm over stock, but, small print is that its qualities as a filter mimic those of a cheese grater.

Pushers will never be as efficient as properly setup pullers. But, overkill is the name of the game, and you aren't designing this thing for MPG.

Well hopefully i can get the LT1 fans so fit some how. Or maybe worst case run 1 OEM LT1 fan and then a smaller aftermarket one if i cant fit both on there.

one of the main reasons i want to run the LT1 stuff is the fact i dont need to change the wiring.

LS1ow · 06-06-2019, 08:59 PM

Okay so there is no way to run 2 LT1 fans on the rad. I have enough room to fit an additional 9” fan, that’s it.

So do I run 1 LT1 fan as the “main fan” and then grab a 9” Spal/Derale as the “high” fan. Plan would be run the LT1 fan off stock wiring, then wire the other fan in using relay. Using the factory “high” fan signal as a trigger to turn it on.

Or

Run 2 12” Fans, and have to wire the hole thing.

I would be building a shroud for either one.

wretched73 · 06-07-2019, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1ow

Okay so there is no way to run 2 LT1 fans on the rad. I have enough room to fit an additional 9” fan, that’s it.

So do I run 1 LT1 fan as the “main fan” and then grab a 9” Spal/Derale as the “high” fan. Plan would be run the LT1 fan off stock wiring, then wire the other fan in using relay. Using the factory “high” fan signal as a trigger to turn it on.

Or

Run 2 12” Fans, and have to wire the hole thing.

I would be building a shroud for either one.

That sounds like a solid plan.

LTb1ow · 06-07-2019, 08:32 AM

Either way, you cannot do what you have laid out without wiring.

Factory fan control is pretty nifty, three relays allow the PCM to command low and have both fans on half speed, than high, and have both on full speed.

So you would need to rewire that if you wanted a true "high" and "low" fan setup. Which is easy, like I said, two robust relays and some wiring.

LS1ow · 06-07-2019, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

Either way, you cannot do what you have laid out without wiring.

Factory fan control is pretty nifty, three relays allow the PCM to command low and have both fans on half speed, than high, and have both on full speed.

So you would need to rewire that if you wanted a true "high" and "low" fan setup. Which is easy, like I said, two robust relays and some wiring.

i should have known it wouldn't be simple lol

do i just bite the bullet.

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...p-e-fan-shroud

Blackbirdws6 · 06-07-2019, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1ow

i should have known it wouldn't be simple lol

do i just bite the bullet.

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com...p-e-fan-shroud

The answer is always "add to cart"

LS1ow · 06-07-2019, 09:31 AM

does a turbo count as a puller fan

Blackbirdws6 · 06-07-2019, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS1ow

does a turbo count as a puller fan

Yes but need to add to of them for redundancy and freedom

LS1ow · 06-07-2019, 02:21 PM

This wiring kit suffice for my needs?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16765/overview/

also, ordered the MightyMouse shroud

LS1ow · 06-08-2019, 12:48 PM

some more work done in the past week. All fab is pretty much done. Just need to get everything fully welded in.

Some pencil rod to grab the top of the rad and hold it in place. Rad will be grabbed with some channel brackets, brackets will bolt to this piece.

Also made a catch for the hood latch. After seeing Fay's firebird hood rip up at the beams, i did not want to take any chances on not running a safety catch.

pencil rod is your friend. Made some brackets for the fuse box to sit on.

box will nut and bolt to tabs welded onto rod and sit like this. Fuse panels them self clip into the box as normal.

Also threw some tabs across the bottom to pick up the air dam... which i need. So if anyone has one sitting around let me know.

Tabs on top are for trans cooler mounting.

Then began to strip back harness to figure out wiring. Did not want to come across top of rad support, so plan on having harness head to back of car out of fuse box instead of front. Then run it in the wiper cowl to the passenger side. and connect the 3 connectors there. The ones that are normally in the passenger wheel well for wire tuck. I dont think any wires will need to be extended other than the wires for the lighting on the passenger. which is not a problem since its only about 10 wires.

sweetbmxrider · 06-08-2019, 07:07 PM

Bad ass work, coming out nice.

Blackbirdws6 · 06-08-2019, 07:25 PM

Good work man. Can't wait until Kirk gets to run his sawzall through the roof.

LTb1ow · 06-12-2019, 08:53 AM

da faq are the updates?

LS1ow · 06-12-2019, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

da faq are the updates?

awaiting fan shroud from mighty mouse.

LS1ow · 06-13-2019, 07:40 AM

busted out the welder again to add some more stuff and decided may as well just finish off everything.

So here you have it, the final(almost) product. I say almost, bc after i finished i realized i didnt run anything to grab the bumper from the bottom right infront of the tire. So today i will run some rod with a tab over there.

tabs for new hood pins. Going to run both the Aerocatch set up ive been running, but im also adding a second set of regular style hood pins. Seeing what happened to Mike Fay scares me lol

and tossed a tow point/strap mount onto the main hoop right off the factory frame rail. Ill be able to run an extra strap to these while its on the trailer for added straptivity.

Will do lower bumper brace tab today hopefully, then tomorrow scuff and prime. then paint.

LS1ow · 06-13-2019, 02:06 PM

wretched73 · 06-13-2019, 02:36 PM

I think everyone is very impressed that this is going so smoothly

sweetbmxrider · 06-13-2019, 05:01 PM

Very excited to see it run lean on the 200 shot and blow the welds on the hood pins.

Blackbirdws6 · 06-14-2019, 07:04 AM

I'm just patiently waiting for the twin Nagasaki tornadoes to make their appearance.

BonzoHansen · 06-14-2019, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

I'm just patiently waiting for the twin Shanghai tornadoes to make their appearance.

fixed

Blackbirdws6 · 06-14-2019, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

fixed

Now that's what I call proper moderation!

ar0ck · 06-15-2019, 09:43 PM

Thank you Beggs, very cool!

LS1ow · 06-17-2019, 01:28 PM

Seems like a silly question, but while extending the lighting harness, so i need to extend all the ground for the lights as well? Or i can i just run new grounds to a spot close to the lights. Instead of having to extended 4 wires 6ft, id rather just run 4 little 1ft ground wires.

But i know some things on the car are powered by the ground being completed, so i just want to confirm.

Blackbirdws6 · 06-17-2019, 01:55 PM

If the grounds are a separate connection, they can go anywhere so no need to extend. If they are part of a connector, I'd extend it with everything else.

LS1ow · 06-17-2019, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

If the grounds are a separate connection, they can go anywhere so no need to extend. If they are part of a connector, I'd extend it with everything else.

Well its all lighting stuff. So i wanted to get away with just extending the signal/power wires to reach the lights, and then just have a short ground wire for every light. I dont want to have to run 60ft of wire and make 12 connections if i only have to run 30ft of wire lol