Not this again.

[LS1ow]

Started to finish the UMI drag bar bar install and just have a few questions for some of you that have already.

1. for bushing location, just run the equidistant from say backing plate/tire on both sides? on any section of the bar that is straight? assuming closest to outside is best here.

2. It says nothing in the instructions about the pitch of the bar. It shows how to set it up and preload and everything, but not were to start at. Should the bar be flat? (0 degree) or match the pinion angle?

[sweetbmxrider]

Isn't the one end link fully in and the other is used for preloading? The more it pitches back, the more squirrels it will snag. Could be a positive or a negative?

[LTb1ow]

You wanna crank that bitch till you get a nasty ghetto lean going

Then, sub 1.5 can be yours.

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

You wanna crank that bitch till you get a nasty ghetto lean going

Then, sub 1.5 can be yours.

...already went 1.47 doe

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

Isn't the one end link fully in and the other is used for preloading? The more it pitches back, the more squirrels it will snag. Could be a positive or a negative?

Ya, kinda. But both sides have a lot of adjustment. I guess how it sits really doesn’t matter since it’s still pivoting in the same spot? Right now I have both links screwed out about half of their range, and the bar ends that point forwards are flat with the bottom of the car(back of car is on jack stands with rear hanging)


EDIT: since rear is hanging, bar ends will be pointed up since sway bar end links do not droop with suspension, but rear housing which bar is mounted to does.

[LTb1ow]

Kirk is the master at this shenanigans, offer up some baileys as tribute

[LS1ow]

Ran into an issue with the sway bar, so need to call UMI to verify something. I double checked part numbers against the little inventory sheet that comes in the box, and it checks out, but i think they may have sent me the wrong mounts for the stock rear. There is about 180* of possible surface for the mount to make contact with, about 60* of it.

Little difficult to capture in pics, but you can deff see it.









Also, removed the rear bumper of the car to take out the rear bumper support, as i planned to whip up a tube one to save some LBS, and snapped all 3 bolts on each side. So that bumper support is not a permanent piece of the car.

[Blackbirdws6]

Yea that doesn't look right but I'm sure they will get it sorted out. I'd not wait to get a hold of them as they are likely in full swing prep mode for their auto x happening later this month.

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

Yea that doesn't look right but I'm sure they will get it sorted out. I'd not wait to get a hold of them as they are likely in full swing prep mode for their auto x happening later this month.

spoke to them on the phone about 20 mins ago, says its normal as clamps are for both 2.75 and 3" axle tubes. Did recommend to throw some tacs on it, so ill be doing so.

[MDSheds_SS]

Had nothing but issues with my bar, and it hurt the 60’. N/A I bet it hurts your 60, on spray it might be needed tho. The bar moved a lot in the bushings. I had to put clamps on both side to keep it in place. Hope you have better luck then I did. It’s an expensive wall decor now

[LS1ow]

Minor updates.

Havent had much time to work on the car, also its been hot as balls and my garage lacks AC. But got some small not to labor intensive stuff done.

After watching the video of McFlayy's hood fly up after he crosses the trap, scared me enough to not only fab up a safety catch on the new front clip, but also add a second set of old school style hood pins. While they dont look the best, id rather be safe than sorry.

Originally wanted to run these, but due to the bubble of the cowl, there was little to no thread left on the pin by the time it passed through the hood. How slopped the hood is is something i didnt take into account when adding the tabs for the extra hood pins.



So one call to my buddy who makes fancy things out of blocks of metal, and we have these. 8" long with 5" of thread, aluminum pins. long enough to pass threw the hood, with plenty of meat on the bottom.



since new holes had to be drilled for the pins, it was time to change up the hood wrap as well. As much as i like the blue/black/grey moo cow look, it opted for something less beater bomb looking, that still was not just a plain black hood wrap.



opted for the full digi camo to match the berger instead of just the center of the cowl like i had it.





Just waiting on some small hardware to install the plates for the pins and its complete.

All the car is waiting on is a lower rad hose. Which i havent had luck finding one that fits, so some AN lines may be in my future.

[wretched73]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

[LS1ow]

So thanks to the mad scientist, i now have a larger trans cooler to replace my smaller guy.

However, due to the whole tubular front end thing, i had it set up specifically for the size trans cooler i had. So the mounts will not work with the new cooler vertically, so i have to run it horizontally. With the trans lines now coming in from the side, does it matter which goes were? I know when it was vertical and fed from the bottom, it did not matter which port was in or out.

[KirkEvil]

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by KirkEvil

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out

cooler is not oriented in any particular way correct? specific in/out port? all the matters is the trans line, yar?

[KirkEvil]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

cooler is not oriented in any particular way correct? specific in/out port? all the matters is the trans line, yar?

yarly

[IROCZman15]

Originally Posted by KirkEvil

Put the return port on the top so it bleeds air out

correct, this is how I know to do it too. feed line in at the bottom so it fills fluid upward and air bubbles can escape from the top

[LS1ow]

new larger trans cooler mounted. Ended up mounting it off the tabs for the lower air dam. Just used a some aluminum flat bar so it had more clamping area than just 2 1.5" tabs of steel.



and installed the hood pin shield things on the hood. debating getting the nipple tassels for them, but looking to find some black ones.

+

also bit the bullet and ordered a cage for the car.

[LTb1ow]

dem hoses are not seated all the way.

[KirkEvil]

dem hoses could be FASSTER in braided nylon

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

dem hoses are not seated all the way.

the bottom one is seated against the cup, the top is not.


but is now.

[Blackbirdws6]

Are you going to earn a chute as well?

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

Are you going to earn a chute as well?

no matter how much weight and power is added, there is still a hippo behind the wheel. so ney.


more srs note... are we gunna be able to do a full pass with the RCs at the rental?

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

no matter how much weight and power is added, there is still a hippo behind the wheel. so ney.


more srs note... are we gunna be able to do a full pass with the RCs at the rental?

We will likely need to do a 1/8 mile due to transmitter range.

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6

We will likely need to do a 1/8 mile due to transmitter range.

nonsense, 2.4ghz good for atleast 1 mile.