Paint prep work

[usp55]

I have a small accident and have put off fixing it for some time now but something has to happen. I have a used fender and bumper cover in good shape and just need to get them painted. In order to make this cheap as possible id like to have it preped and ready for paint and wanted to know how i should go abot preping the parts.

I was thinking about painting the entire front clip but I just dont have the money o do it and its my daily driver and takes a beating unfourtunatly, paint isnt that old, under two years.

[usp55]

anyone?

what grit sand paper to scuff the paint up?

[camaro2you]

You know I do bodywork, I would use 120 if the clear is pealing, if the clear isn't pealing wet sand with 400 and then step up to 800. Either way you need to wet sand with 400 and then 800, you can even step up to 1000 after the 800 if you like.

[usp55]

Thanks - pm sent also

[V]

i just did some paint work earlier today, and reading through all the paperwork that comes with the PPG paint. It recommended that before the basecoat, the surface is prepped by final sanding with 400-600 grit. Like cody said, start with like 150 if the stock parts are bad, and work your way up, like then 220, 320, 400. You should be good with that, i personally dont think 1000 grit is needed, and may actually be too smooth for new paint/primer to grab. but thats just what i read, i dont do body work for a living. lol. im sure paul or someone else could clear it up more.

[HardcoreZ28]

I wouldn't sand past 500 or 600 grit tops. The surface becomes too smooth and you lose the mechanical bond between the paint and surface and have to rely soley on the chemical bond that's created.

Sand it wet with 400 and anything finer you use.

And if you want to be sure it's dead straight use guide coat.

[97ws6]

If I am doing a rubber bumper I use 220 wet to get out all the chips and spider cracks, then I finish with 400, you dont need to go any finer than 400. To do it right you are supposed to seal the part you are painting with a good primer sealer, then you shoot the base coat over it, then the clear. Flexible parts require that you add the flex additive to the paint. You would be surprised how much these materials cost. If you use PPG the sealer, hardener for the sealer, basecoat, clear, hardener for the clear, and the flex additive is going to cost you over 300.00. If your car is a solid color, and you do all the body work, sanding and prep work, you can get it painted at Maaco with a single stage urethane for about 450.00. This is probably your cheapest option, and you car will have a new paint job. But if you have a metallic color, they are going to charge you 1000.00. Unless you have a friend who works at a body shop, and can get you the materials cheap?