i have 2 codes...

[black95maro]

hey guys so as soe of you may know i just picked up a 96 z28. anyway it was throwing the ses light so i finally got it scanned at auto zone and got 2 codes...
1. P0100 MAF/VAF a circuit malf.
2. P1441 Manufacturer control aux emission control

after doing a little research i found i should probably get a new maf and that the emissions code ment i have an evap leak. which means i'll have to bring it to the dealer to use their smoke machine.

but anyway any thoughts on this? thanks

[sweetbmxrider]

you seem on the right track. if you have a volt meter, you can check the voltage for the maf.

[black95maro]

just the red maf signal wire and a ground? should have 12.6v or so?

[Stevoone]

The books says you should have 5v between the Signal wire and ground. Should be a 3 wire connector on the MAF, The pink wire is B+ from fuse 1C (eng sensor), The black/white wire is ground and the yellow wire is the signal wire.

[black95maro]

ok let me check that tomorrow. any ideas on the evap thing?

[88IrocVert]

With the evap code, I would check all the vaccum lines first. It's the cheapest and easiest to try first. Also check if the gas cap is loose. If it's the gas cap, it will take a couple trips to clear on it's own.

**In reference to the lines, obviously you want to check for holes, but also look for severe dry cracking. Replace any lines that look doubtful.

[IROCdan330]

i would bet money on the evap code being a purge valve.

[Stevoone]

The p1441 description was for EVAP flow during Non-purge. I don't think you need the smoke machine for this code but most of the steps in the chart have you check the parameters with a scan tool. Most of the chart is along the lines of what the other guys mentioned lines, hoses, purge valve, canister.

[Pampered-Z]

P1441 - Is likely a vaccum leak, canister breaking up and clogging the line/purge valve or the purge valve stuck.

The canister is behind the driver's side real wheel, need to remove the platic wheelwell to access. The valve is up above the rear. Check the lines for leaks or being clogged.

[black95maro]

so i cleared the evap code and that didnt come back, yet. so i'm thinking that was a loose gas cap or something. but the maf thing is still present i swapped in another maf i had and it's reading .33 all the time, at idle with the rpms up and everything. i think i have a wiring problem yayyy!!

[sweetbmxrider]

you would have to see if the monitor is set for evap, it takes some time unlike most other monitors. try cruising above 55 for a bit, turning the car off somewhere, and doing it again. its not the exact drive cycle, but its somewhat the direction to go.

[IROCdan330]

Originally Posted by black95maro

so i cleared the evap code and that didnt come back, yet. so i'm thinking that was a loose gas cap or something. but the maf thing is still present i swapped in another maf i had and it's reading .33 all the time, at idle with the rpms up and everything. i think i have a wiring problem yayyy!!

i believe it takes 3 or so restarts with the code present to put the light on as well.

[Stevoone]

the p1441 code will not run/set until p0100 is fixed. depending on what code is set current it will disable other tests from running.

[black95maro]

so i tested for power at the sensor and didn't have any so naturally i check fuses and the engine sensor fuse was popped. so i swapped a new one in a went to school. light still on the whole ride. start it up to come home and it's out for about 5 miles then comes back on and stayed on. I'm gunna scan it again. this is a pain in the ass

[sweetbmxrider]

how fast were you going when it came on?

[IROCdan330]

lets say said sensor is shorted and pops the fuse. you said you tried another one...and the code and light were still there. however, did you try the known good one with a good fuse? because the way im reading it is you tried a new sensor with a bad fuse, obviouisly that wont work.

[black95maro]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

how fast were you going when it came on?

about 50 or 60

Originally Posted by IROCdan330

lets say said sensor is shorted and pops the fuse. you said you tried another one...and the code and light were still there. however, did you try the known good one with a good fuse? because the way im reading it is you tried a new sensor with a bad fuse, obviouisly that wont work.

i put a new fuse in and it hasen't blown yet and the code and light remain.

[IROCdan330]

does your scanner only read codes or can you see the datastream as well?

[sweetbmxrider]

its the same code? not something emissions related? like egr?

[black95maro]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

its the same code? not something emissions related? like egr?

yes same code P0100

Originally Posted by IROCdan330

does your scanner only read codes or can you see the datastream as well?

yes and when i had the scanner on it the light was off and the maf was responding and working great. when the light is on it's reading .33 and not moving.

[sweetbmxrider]

is it a rebuilt or brand new? i did a rebuilt in my friends impala and it crapped out real quick. got a new unit and no problems since!

[black95maro]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

is it a rebuilt or brand new? i did a rebuilt in my friends impala and it crapped out real quick. got a new unit and no problems since!

the other maf? i had it from my spare motor. now sometimes i start my car and the light doesn't come on for the whole ride other times it's on the whole time. this is annoying.

[sweetbmxrider]

well if its still the maf code, i would get a new sensor from a parts store personally. swapping parts around doesn't always work. could have a problem elsewhere though.