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07-07-2012, 01:25 PM
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#26
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Highland Mills, NY
Posts: 1,915
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Jersey mike has one still in the 2000 ta
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2000 Camaro SS 610rwhp/570rwtq LS2 440, 12 bolt 3.73, tranzilla t56
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07-08-2012, 12:10 PM
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#27
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
Its not that bad to do. I used to have a couple but I think I scrapped them.
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Is it an under dash/gotta pull a ton of parts deal or just a PITA in the engine bay?
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07-08-2012, 12:41 PM
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#28
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,899
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I am gonna assume the whole HVAC box needs to come out, which means dash coming out etc.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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07-08-2012, 03:41 PM
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#29
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
Is it an under dash/gotta pull a ton of parts deal or just a PITA in the engine bay?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
I am gonna assume the whole HVAC box needs to come out, which means dash coming out etc.
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Should just be the top cover on the engine bay portion of the box? Or the whole firewall side of the box if it doesn't separate, I can't remember atm. The heater core and blower motor are inside the car. I may be wrong though as AllData says;
Quote:
Remove or Disconnect
Discharge refrigerant into a recovery station.
Right-hand instrument panel sound insulator panel.
Heater hoses at heater core.
Instrument panel compartment.
Heater Core.
Air conditioning evaporator temperature sensor.
Temperature control cable at temperature valve case.
Bolts/screws (48) located in engine compartment from temperature valve case (42).
Temperature valve case (42).
Slide case (42) downward to disengage upper case clip.
Remove from under the instrument panel.
Thermostatic expansion valve.
Important
Remove perforated section of heater and air conditioning evaporator module as one piece (it will be reused).
Water can leak onto carpeting when doing this procedure. It is recommended that a mat be placed on passenger side floor.
Using a small hand saw, remove perforated section of heater and air conditioning evaporator module.
Important
This piece of material is required to keep condensate from draining inside vehicle.
Bolts/screws (41) retaining air conditioning evaporator (3).
Air conditioning evaporator (3) from heater and air conditioning module (11).
Slide evaporator (3) to the left, then pull out through the opening enlarged in step 11.
Install or Connect
Transfer condensate screen to new evaporator (3).
Install new evaporator core gasket in same position as original with appropriate adhesive.
Air conditioning evaporator (3) to heater and air conditioning module (11).
Insert evaporator (3) into module (It) through the opening enlarged during removal, slide to the right until fully seated.
Bolts/screws (41) to air conditioning evaporator (3).
Thermostatic expansion valve.
Apply sealer GM P/N 3012078 (do not use epoxy glue) between evaporator (3) and evaporator upper and lower case (44 and 45) just behind thermostatic expansion valve to prevent air entry from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment.
Position perforated section of heater and air conditioning evaporator module and use epoxy glue to adhere it to module. After epoxy dries, use thumb to grade sealant on inside and outside to ensure water-tight seal.
Temperature valve case (42).
Install from under instrument panel.
Slide case (42) upward into position until upper clip engages.
Engage snap on left edge of temperature valve case (42) to distributor case (46).
Bolts/screws (48) to temperature valve case (42).
Temperature control cable at temperature valve case.
Air conditioning evaporator temperature sensor.
Heater core.
Instrument panel compartment.
Heater hoses to heater core.
Right-hand instrument panel sound insulator panel.
Fill radiator and bleed cooling system.
Refrigerant oil into evaporator (3), if necessary.
If installing new evaporator (3), add 89 ml (3 fluid ounces) of polyalkylene glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil, GM P/N 12345923.
Tighten
Bolts/screws (48) evenly to compress flange seal.
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07-08-2012, 05:18 PM
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#30
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,899
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AFAIK, you cannot split the HVAC box in the engine bay, it needs to come through the firewall to be split in two.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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07-08-2012, 06:01 PM
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#31
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Power Member/NJFBOA Bookie/Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Jersey = Best Jersey.
Posts: 4,435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyFirstZ
Jersey mike has one still in the 2000 ta
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This. Let me know if the other two fall through and it's yours.
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1995 Firebird... Stock-ish.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow
Good. He microwaved my phone 6 years ago, i hope his intake erupts.
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07-09-2012, 07:02 AM
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#32
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow
AFAIK, you cannot split the HVAC box in the engine bay, it needs to come through the firewall to be split in two.
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Yeah thinking about it, I think you are right. That makes things worse
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07-11-2012, 12:27 AM
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#33
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
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pulling the dash is easy after you've done a dozen or so
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07-11-2012, 06:02 AM
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#34
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V
pulling the dash is easy after you've done a dozen or so
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Yeup, ive gotten good at it. Hardest part is trying to not crack the dashpad. If you need a hand lemme know.
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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