Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar
Go Back   NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > General Tech

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-03-2018, 05:43 PM   #26
deadtrend1
11 second club/ Moderator
 
deadtrend1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Maple Shade, NJ
Posts: 7,103
iTrader: (11)
What experts did you talk to? Thats one of the bolts that hold the posi unit together...

A new 12 bolt is not even close to 4500 dollars..
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57

1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85

Last edited by deadtrend1; 03-03-2018 at 05:50 PM.
deadtrend1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 07:48 AM   #27
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadtrend1 View Post
What experts did you talk to? Thats one of the bolts that hold the posi unit together...

A new 12 bolt is not even close to 4500 dollars..


several, including a guy on thirdgen.org who has been building rear ends for three decades.
if you know a way to pull up a photo or exploded diagram view of said rear posi unit, please share. I'd love to know what my fate may be. this bolt may have broken off a long time ago or just recently. last time I had the cover off and changed rear fluid was about 1.5 years ago.


as per prices on the 12 bolt, that is kinda what I have been coming up with when doing pretend orders on moser, strange, and currie websites. (that price includes the $600 driveshaft i will NEED to match the rear, from dennys driveshafts) I also looked on hawks, and may give JS josh a call. I do want a 12 bolt and not a 9".

I would really like to keep my current rear brake package becasue it works well, and I already own it so why buy another.
it is the exact kit at this link: http://flynbye.com/catalog/i11.html
BUT WITH THESE BACKING PLATES: http://flynbye.com/catalog/i182.html
(those backing plates were needed because i went from drum to disc)

from researching moser, currie, strange's websites, they obviously wouldn't use those backing plates, but how would I go about ordering/researching how to make this brake package work.

the reason I ask is when I go to Moser's site,
http://www.moserengineering.com/12-b...d-package.item
click "rear end packages" in the store, "12 bolt built to order", .. in brake packages, would i just click "using stock brakes" ? and then use my backing plates? will this work with their axle flanges and bolt-in axles (non C-clip) ? I have emailed them twice but no response so I may have to call. in reality, this is the only thing holding me up from piecing together an order.... (and finances). I would really hate to not reuse my perfectly fine working brake package. see below and/or website

the options I chose on this page were
http://www.moserengineering.com/12-b...d-package.item
- Kendall LS additave
- 3 liters Motul fluid
- residentail lift gate
- bolt in axles
- 82-92 camaro *** see here, right here !!!! "can not use stock brakes" !!!!!
- 33 spline
- Trutrack 33 spline
- 3.55 ratio
- 1350 series pinion yoke
- aluminum girdle
- 5 x 4.75 bolt pattern
- sealed bearing
- 12 x 1.5 " studs
- no ABS
- using stock drum brakes **which is what my backing plates currently are for ** but wont work ...
- sway bar mounts and adjustable LCA mounts (their site will only let me pick one of thesee?!?)
- semi-gloss black powdercoating
$3,300.75


Driveshaft:
1350 series nitrous ready
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/c30_...7_to_2002.html
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/

Last edited by IROCZman15; 03-05-2018 at 08:03 AM.
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 10:50 AM   #28
WildBillyT
Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
 
WildBillyT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,499
iTrader: (10)
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadtrend1 View Post
What experts did you talk to? Thats one of the bolts that hold the posi unit together...

A new 12 bolt is not even close to 4500 dollars..
Nailed it.




Factory 26 spline GM Auburn posi screw.
WildBillyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 11:32 AM   #29
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
ok, awesome, thank you guys. the day i first found it i knew it was obviously not a ring gear bolt or a main cap bolt as I could physically see them. that led my thought process into t inking it was something inside the diff.. and not being an expert i asked around. no worries though, I am glad to now know what it is and where it came from.

looks like there are 5 of them total. i'm missing one. certainly not good at all, but not an immediate death sentence for the whole rear.. would you agree? might have to go a little easier on the burnouts and launches for a while while I save up money for a 12 bolt. thoughts opinions ?
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 12:02 PM   #30
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 19,726
iTrader: (27)
i wouldn't run it. so now the other bolts are more stressed and one already broke on its own.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever! ... My junk ... NJ Camaros and Firebirds

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 12:18 PM   #31
LTb1ow
Mongo the Meet Coordinator
 
LTb1ow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,116
iTrader: (8)
Why are you fixed on the 12 bolt?

S60 is another option
__________________

LTb1ow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 01:02 PM   #32
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
i did look at combinations of the strange S60 and the for 9" and fabricated rear ends as well. I guess I am not fixed on the 12 bolt 100% but I have done some resaerch and reading on Thirdgen.org and people seem to have success with it on setups with the power level I plan on being at

I wish I had the $4,000 is that it would cost to just buy or have one built right now, but I donnt...so either I sideline the car until I can afford it, or I put the 10 bolt back in and drive normally without launches or burnouts etc

as mentioned, the brake setup is really my only dilemma


did a tiny bit more work on the fuel system this morning, plugged in the pumps etup and new bulkhead wiring to the existing oem fuel pump connector and connected the battery. the pump primed. waited 5 mins, did it again. that was a nice moemnt, because it means that I did the in tank wiring correctly, 9which involved removing wiring and pins from oem connectors and putting them into new ones from racetronix), and the bulkhead wiring is correct.


going to try to finish up the braided lines and fittings tomorrow daytime, and then runt the main wiring harness from the alternator, under the car, to the tank . then get some fuel and test the pump
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 01:35 PM   #33
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 19,726
iTrader: (27)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
Why are you fixed on the 12 bolt?

S60 is another option
there is a rear I never see in a car designed to turn corners.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever! ... My junk ... NJ Camaros and Firebirds

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 01:36 PM   #34
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 19,726
iTrader: (27)
Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
i did look at combinations of the strange S60 and the for 9" and fabricated rear ends as well. I guess I am not fixed on the 12 bolt 100% but I have done some resaerch and reading on Thirdgen.org and people seem to have success with it on setups with the power level I plan on being at

I wish I had the $4,000 is that it would cost to just buy or have one built right now, but I donnt...so either I sideline the car until I can afford it, or I put the 10 bolt back in and drive normally without launches or burnouts etc
short term you could buy a new center unit.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever! ... My junk ... NJ Camaros and Firebirds

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 01:42 PM   #35
LTb1ow
Mongo the Meet Coordinator
 
LTb1ow's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,116
iTrader: (8)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
there is a rear I never see in a car designed to turn corners.
Learn something new every day
__________________

LTb1ow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 01:53 PM   #36
wretched73
 
wretched73's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 1,326
iTrader: (2)
Check out the 9" rears sold by quick performance
__________________
1983 camaro- Scrap
1988 camaro- Current mistake
DD- '05 Silverado
1988 TRX 250R- Ported w/ high compression on 110 octane- Out 60' your LT1

Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow View Post
and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Mike View Post
Seven.
wretched73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 02:27 PM   #37
BonzoHansen
Admin.
 
BonzoHansen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 19,726
iTrader: (27)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
Learn something new every day
i can only surmise it has to do with size & weight (and HP loss?). I assume the extra shock load that you see in drag racing warrants that kind of setup, something cars in other forms of racing problaby don't typically see. Just a guess on my part.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever! ... My junk ... NJ Camaros and Firebirds

The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
BonzoHansen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2018, 08:20 PM   #38
Featherburner
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arm pit of the world... NJ
Posts: 2,613
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen View Post
i can only surmise it has to do with size & weight (and HP loss?). I assume the extra shock load that you see in drag racing warrants that kind of setup, something cars in other forms of racing problaby don't typically see. Just a guess on my part.
10-15 pounds heavier than a 9" and "eats" less HP than a 9" due to 9" pinion location.
__________________
John
Featherburner is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2018, 12:46 PM   #39
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
FUEL SYSTEM IS COMPLETE AND WORKING PROPERLY.

Yesterday I finished up the lines and connections at the tank bulkhead. cut the vent tube and the "honk" valve metal lines off and ran new fuel rated rubber lines from the tank. I also wired in the wiring harness that I got from racetronix already prebuilt. It gets power from the alternator, so the voltage will be above 14volts to feed the pump. the wiring was a little long so I had to loop it onto itself back by the tank. it came with the built in relay, connectors, and chassis ground terminal. The body-mount clamps I got fit the -6 return line perfectly, so that is hard mounted along the chassis and underbody. I have some billet clamps that attach the -6 line to the -8 feed line along the path too, and then the wiring, vent tube line, and the brake line to the rear axle are all zip tied together. The filter is large, so I was limited on areas to mount it, but I found a good enough spot for it.


When it was all said and done I connected the battery and tested for voltage. I put the keyON and heard the pump prime. it did. I then removed the coil wire from the distributer and cranked the engine a few times to build fuel pressure in the line and check for leaks. no leaks. Figured, what the heck and reconnected the ignition. after a bout only 2 seconds, the engine started up and ran. let it run at idle for about 10 seconds and shut it all off. went underneath with a dry papertowel and checked for leaks. no leaks. let everything sit for about 15 mins and cranked it over again. ran for 10 seconds at idle and turned it off. no leaks. as was suggested to me on TGOi supported the underside of the engine for balance/safety.


so hopefuly that totaly wraps it up for the fuel system portion of this winter's project
I'll now reassemble the rear end after I put in the new longer wheel studs. I hear what you guys are saying about buying a new posi unit, but I really would like to NOT put any more $ into this 177,000 mile rear axle assemble. Those hundreds of doallrs would be way better off going towards the new rear end. I'll just not hammer on the car until I have the axle here or being built.

still completely unsure about what path I will go with rearends, and what to do about this brake setup.










__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/

Last edited by IROCZman15; 03-07-2018 at 01:26 PM.
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2018, 09:06 AM   #40
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 18,712
iTrader: (12)
Nice progress dude
__________________
#1531
Quote:
Originally Posted by karlaa View Post
hi there, i just joined this forum and i must admit that i like it
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28 View Post
I know it's good to eat salads, but this is ridiculous.
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2018, 11:34 PM   #41
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
Mid May 2018 update

so since the last update I have gotten the car completely back together and back on the road

I left the rear end "as-is" with the hopes that it can survive through most/all of 2018 while saving up for a new purpose built rear (as earlier discussed above by us all). so, the exhaust, heat shields, rear axle, brakes, suspension components, lines, etc are all done. I installed new slightly longer wheel studs in the axles because I wanted a few more turns of thread engagement, and now I feel better having about 7.5 turns of thread engagement when bolting on my rear wheels. I upgraded the rear shocks to the Koni Yellow 8241-1140sport adjustable shocks...which are specifically for 93-02 fbody. the reason i got these instead of the ones for the 82-92 fbody is because these are ON-CAR adjustable, while the 82-92 versions have to be taken OFF of the car to be adjusted and then reinstalled. the 82-92 are dual valved though, and these are only single valved.. but the on-car adjustment is important to me. my rears are currently set at 1.0 turns up (out of a total of 2.5)






reinstalled and rewired the repaired MSD Digital 6 ignition box also. installed a new speedometer cable because the old one had a split in the housing where it mated to the transmission and leaked fluid slightly. ATP cable #03159 P/N Y815 80" long. got both of my oem sun visors recovered at a local upholstery shop because the fabric was getting loose and that just didnt jive with my mint headliner.

Decided to do the "4th gen coolant tank mod" and get rid of the location of my factory tank from the passenger inner fender. cut out most of my battery tray since it had become rusty and because I had to cut a pear shaped hole in it anyway to install the tank setup. replaced the tray with a piece of 1/8" sheet aluminum which I cut the pear shaped hole into. primered and painted it red and dressed the hole with some rubber vac tubing to eliminate any tank rubbing on the sharp edges. filled in the holes on the inner fender with epoxy, then body filler, sanding, primer, paint etc. cleans up the engine bay a LOT by not having the bright white goofy plastic tank there. my battery now sits higher but does not come close to interfering with the hood.






















...finally got the transmission back from the builder who upgraded it after repairing the worn 3-4 clutch pack and also resurfacing a few components that had some wear. he also found that a plunger in the valve body was stuck in place by a piece of metal that somehow found its way into the system. it COULD be from the old exploded transmission which COULD have left pieces of metal in the system... However, in 2016 I did do my very best to flush the lines, and the trans cooler inside the radiator using TWO cans of the trans system flush aerosol can product after explosion of old trans. I now have installed an in-line magnetic transmission fluid filter made by magnefine in case there are any additional particles that may be in the system. trans has been beefed up to" hold 750-800" flywheel hp. details here: https://probuiltautomatics.com/shop?...scend_by_price
-- (actually it looks like Dana just changed his website around and now doesnt list the full details of each product on the website anymore?? hmm. interesting. oh well)
- put a drain plug in the pan also to help prevent any future messy trans fluid spills when removing the pan. While installing the crossmember, 2 out of the 4 bolts started to become stripped. I know this is a common thing for these unibody fbody crossmember setups and happens after repeated removal/installs due to the cheap-o metal captured nuts that GM welded inside the frame. I did my research on thirdgen.org and I was successful with the easiest repair method.... This simply involves re-tapping the bolt holes to a larger size and installing larger 7/16" bolts. the other methods involve cutting side access holes into the frame, or removing the interior and carpet to drill access holes through the floor to weld in new nuts. perhaps in the future i'll do that if the interior is out, but for now the new bolts are holding snug.







Installed the front Koni yellow struts P/N 8741-1030Sport. these are specific for the 82-92 fbody. I currently only have them cranked 1.0 turns up from zero. greased all steering and suspension components and cleaned up underside of the chassis. brought the car for an alignment and got everything sorted out how I wanted it to be. also set the driveline angle at 3deg according to my tremec driveline angle finder app. (cool free app by the way)









after a few short test drives and another bolt check underneath the entire car I took it out for a good 20 minutes and everything felt fine. the trans doesn't seem to like shifting from 1-2 at very low rpm throttle input, it kinda bucks two or three times after the shift...again when basically coasting. I'll see if this goes awayand do some research as well.
I checked fuel pressure since I was worried that the new upgraded fuel pump/system might have disrupted the psi and found that when I dialed the pressure down to the stock 48 / 42 psi settings (vac hose off/on) the engine did not like it at all. It seemed to run the happiest when at 51psi/44psi so I left it set at that. Got the nitrous tank filled at Bruce's Seed shop and did a few quick 3-4 second rips with that to ensure that my nitrous related MSD box wiring and fuel system stuff was in order... and it was.


So for now it will be on the road for a while. I have no immediate plans on the calendar yet for any autocross or drag racing. I do want to do some autoX at the Meadowlands this year, but might hold off on drag racing since I am still driving around with the hurt rear and do not have the $ to buy a new beefed up one. I plan on some long fun cruises, cruise nights, car shows, the UMI autoX event, and some general thrashing when appropriate. I will need to do a full blown intense wash, strip, claybar, polish, sealant, wax session in a few weeks when the pollen is all gone. I stopped by CTW Paul's house and picked up a LOT of awesome detail supplies from him for a great price. (also picked up a full cat-back Magnaflow exhaust setup for my truck). Thats all, just wanted to update. Still slowly saving for a rear axle and for the big engine project. hopefully this winter, but dang my wifes college bills have really been eating into my engine savings account! oh well. thats life.
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/

Last edited by IROCZman15; Yesterday at 12:44 AM.
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 07:27 AM   #42
ar0ck
Resident Camera Guy
 
ar0ck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 10,894
iTrader: (2)
Now this is the stuff I like to see on the forums! Looks incredible!
__________________
ar0ck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 07:45 AM   #43
sweetbmxrider
Meet Coordinator
 
sweetbmxrider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 18,712
iTrader: (12)
Excellent work as always!
__________________
#1531
Quote:
Originally Posted by karlaa View Post
hi there, i just joined this forum and i must admit that i like it
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigAls87Z28 View Post
I know it's good to eat salads, but this is ridiculous.
sweetbmxrider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 08:02 AM   #44
Blackbirdws6
Lord of the rings / 10 Second Club / Meet Coordinator
 
Blackbirdws6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 5,609
iTrader: (3)
Really enjoying the thorough explanation, detailed pics and commentary. Keep it coming and glad it's back on the road.
__________________

97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140

17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
Blackbirdws6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 08:58 AM   #45
WildBillyT
Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
 
WildBillyT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,499
iTrader: (10)
Looks great!!
WildBillyT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Yesterday, 09:11 PM   #46
deadtrend1
11 second club/ Moderator
 
deadtrend1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Maple Shade, NJ
Posts: 7,103
iTrader: (11)
I would make a strap for that battery. The 4th gen trays have a habit of breaking.
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57

1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
deadtrend1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Today, 06:43 PM   #47
IROCZman15
Meet Coordinator
 
IROCZman15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Roxbury, NJ
Posts: 1,399
iTrader: (5)
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadtrend1 View Post
I would make a strap for that battery. The 4th gen trays have a habit of breaking.
woah, I had no idea about that. that is sure good to know. I'll do some research and see if I can make one (or something) that looks classy but provides support. thank you


drove the car into work tonight (30 minutes, 17 miles) all is working well except I can hear intermittent noises from the rear end (which is hurt and missing one sheared off diff/ring bolt head) i'll check fluid in a week or so after driving it more miles, maybe i'll play around a tad more with setting the driveline/pinion angle too. i only hear the noise when not on the throttle, when the gears are "coasting". also, when i am put-putting very low rpm's the 1-2 shift is a bit jerky, but when I am at any moderate (20% an up) throttle input the 1-2 shift is rock solid and feels great. i guess it just doesnt like to be limped from 1-2 . interesting.
__________________
1987 IROC-Z - modified
http://www.freewebs.com/iroczman15/
IROCZman15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > General Tech

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Sponsor List
















All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 3
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.