Check all of your wires going to the battery from the alternator. I went through my original, a rebuilt, and then a 120amp rebuilt alternator all to have them fail within 2 months from each other. It failed on the penn turnpyke near the tunnels, where they were doing construction so it was closed down to 2 lans no shoulder, raining, at night
. It was scary because I was going through the tunnel when my radio shut off, I was like... ahhhhhh then I looked at my voltage and it was below 9, so I then turned off my headlights and wipers stumbling the car into an emergency pull over. No cell phone, long story so I'll end it there. I ended up with a rebuild alternator from a no shoes no shirts redneck gas station that evening but I cleaned all of my wire connections... been 4 years now without a problem
. Alternators don't just fail, there's always a reason, either heat destroys the bearing or high resistance (equals high load) destroys the diodes, it's that simple really. Loose or crappy wires going to the battery can induce high resistance and result in the battery showing lower voltage so the alternator will pump HARD current and overheat.
I'd just get a good rebuild just incase it fails again, so you haven't spend $$$. Just get a warrenty.
__________________
, Jon
Owner of a Red Sled.
If it\'s EFI I can tune it. Specialize in 82-95 GM (yes Lt1\'s)
\"If you can leave black marks on a straight from the time you exit a corner till the time you brake for the next turn.......Then, you have enough horsepower\" - Mark Donohue
I replaced the alternator in my GTA when I first bought it in March. Well driving back to school after break, I look over at the volt gauge and it is slowly, but steadily dropping. As I pulled into the parking lot my CD player shut off and my gauge lights went so dim I could barely see them. Now I have to go buy another F-ing alternator. Ugh. End rant. 
