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02-21-2008, 08:23 AM
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#1
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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010 blocks
Guys,
I saw some posting on in another section and thought I'd mention this.
It's not the casting number (39700010) that makes a high nickel block. It's the numbers under the timing cover that determine the tin and nickel content. If you look under there you will see an 010 or 020 cast into the block. If it's not there then you have a standard block.
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02-21-2008, 08:27 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,623
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I have 010 stamped on the side of the block under the driver side exhaust manifold.
__________________
2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7
1982 Z28 Pacecar 305
1999 S10
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02-21-2008, 04:47 PM
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#3
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,149
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I knew that. I also know my 39700010 block is an 010 4-bolt main.
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Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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02-21-2008, 05:00 PM
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#4
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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hey bill their is also an oil line plug in the front right side just under the intake front rail < that most certainly is a high nickel block as well they were for jersey skiffs in the ocean and < rusted less than the others - also the roundly guys would buy one in a minuet as they all felt they were thicker than the rest -- jz
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02-21-2008, 06:30 PM
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#5
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,149
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Mine has the oil plug on the RF as well.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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02-21-2008, 07:40 PM
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#6
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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and i forgot that the rear top of the block has a bolt hole that is threaded just like the other normal 6 on every block but the alloy trans cases dont have the hole, only the cast iron ones have the 7th hole for bolting hahahahahhhah - jz
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02-21-2008, 08:59 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
I knew that. I also know my 39700010 block is an 010 4-bolt main.
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So is mine, got it for a bonus from my boss
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02-22-2008, 08:58 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 540
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Any idea what the blocks are worth? Have 3 of them in my garage. One is built and the others i am hanging onto for later projects. Also, should the block only have one casting on it? The block I just looked at had both numbers stamped behind the timing cover 010 and 020.
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02-22-2008, 09:00 AM
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#9
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevoone
Any idea what the blocks are worth? Have 3 of them in my garage. One is built and the others i am hanging onto for later projects. Also, should the block only have one casting on it? The block I just looked at had both numbers stamped behind the timing cover 010 and 020.
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010/020 blocks are the most sought after since they have both tin and nickel added. On the 010/020 blocks look for 2482 on the center caps as those are the GM performance caps.
Probably $150-250. Regular 010s are around $100-125 from what I've seen.
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02-22-2008, 09:20 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 540
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Thanks for the info. The caps do not have the 2482 casting on them, I am not sure about my other block though. Will have to check that one as well.
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02-22-2008, 12:11 PM
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#11
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Edison, NJ
Posts: 4,619
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You can do fine on a good tune, 010 or not.... even a 2 bolt main can take up to $500 HP...
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1999 Z28 Convertible. 6 speed swap, wide cowl hood, full hockey stripes, and a whining 10 bolt.
2008 Sierra Vortec Max. 6.2 swapped, headers, Magnaflow catback, GMPP CAI, NHT optioned tow package.
2006 GTO, 11.48 @ 118.3
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02-22-2008, 12:13 PM
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#12
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ Torque
You can do fine on a good tune, 010 or not.... even a 2 bolt main can take up to $500 HP...
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but can't stand up to revving as high as a 4 bolt
__________________
2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7
1982 Z28 Pacecar 305
1999 S10
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02-22-2008, 02:37 PM
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#13
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Admin.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Hamilton, NJ
Posts: 20,149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba428
but can't stand up to revving as high as a 4 bolt
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I always thought the top end gave up 1st in high rpm issues...anyone who spends big $$ for a high rpm top end sure has the $$ for a solid bottom.
__________________
Vent Windows Forever!
The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.
Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.
Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop
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02-22-2008, 02:40 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
I always thought the top end gave up 1st in high rpm issues...anyone who spends big $$ for a high rpm top end sure has the $$ for a solid bottom.
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provided you are smart enough to do so, and/or have the presence of mind. wouldn't want a rod bolt coming loose
__________________
2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7
1982 Z28 Pacecar 305
1999 S10
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02-22-2008, 03:11 PM
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#15
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NJFBOA Supporting Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: HULMEVILLE, PA
Posts: 2,023
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I guess my engine should have been split in half a long time ago then HUH??.. All I have is the original two bolt block from 88 in the IROC and I dont think I need to repost what kind of power it makes..
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JSSPEEDANDCUSTOM.COM
Last edited by JSPERFORMANCE; 02-22-2008 at 03:12 PM.
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02-22-2008, 03:13 PM
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#16
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSPERFORMANCE
I guess my engine should have been split in half a long time ago then HUH??.. All I have is the original two bolt block from 88 in the IROC and I dont think I need to repost what kind of power it makes..
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ARP studded at least?
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02-22-2008, 03:20 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,623
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I didn't say you couldn't run a 2 bolt like that, but have you rebuilt yours? I'm sure a rebuilt 2 bolt could handle a lot of power. but would you disagree that untouched, a 4 bolt would be better off if the top end was beefed up?
__________________
2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7
1982 Z28 Pacecar 305
1999 S10
Last edited by bubba428; 02-22-2008 at 03:21 PM.
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02-22-2008, 03:26 PM
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#18
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NJFBOA Supporting Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Nah, I used ARP Main bolts
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JSSPEEDANDCUSTOM.COM
Last edited by JSPERFORMANCE; 02-22-2008 at 03:30 PM.
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02-22-2008, 03:29 PM
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#19
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NJFBOA Supporting Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: HULMEVILLE, PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bubba428
would you disagree that untouched, a 4 bolt would be better off if the top end was beefed up?
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Until you start making serious torque and rpm's the difference in two to four bolt is 0. If you spin the thing hard enough to actually need a stronger clamp on the crank then you are still better off with a two bolt block and having billet splayed caps installed.
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JSSPEEDANDCUSTOM.COM
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02-22-2008, 07:25 PM
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#20
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,623
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never really thought of it like that, but once you get into that kinda power range wouldn't you be better off with a 4bolt with after market caps and bolts? I'm not trying to say your wrong I'm just using this as an opportunity to decide on something.
__________________
2000 Tahoe Z71 5.7
1982 Z28 Pacecar 305
1999 S10
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02-22-2008, 07:33 PM
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#21
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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JS or JZ can confirm or deny this, but my understanding of the situation is that splayed bolts are better because they aren't all pulling in the same direction. The outer bolts pull from the side walls and not the main web.
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02-23-2008, 06:28 AM
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#22
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NJFBOA Supporting Sponsor
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: HULMEVILLE, PA
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wild bill, that is basiclly how it works.
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JSSPEEDANDCUSTOM.COM
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02-23-2008, 07:08 AM
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#23
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.
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,385
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their are many who have debated the question about straight or splayed bolts in crank area as well as cross bolting < ( bolted from the side of the block into crank area ) another play for retention not used that often < pricey for sure --- and for my money today its a world block < soft to bore and hone < like a Bo tie - OR - dart block Hard like a 440 dodge block < now what one is better depends on many = many different things but LS blocks are on the soft side if that helps - and i always liked spalyed bolting and i have never seen any cap bouncing < Marks can be seen under a main cap from floating around with most race motors ) with that set up NEVER - just my take - jz
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02-25-2008, 07:00 PM
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#24
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Banned Camp Director Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Somerset County
Posts: 8,395
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I've heard that most of the time a 2 bolt or 4 bolt block will be fine with quality fasteners, unless you're building something with a stupid amount of power. thats when the splayed caps come into play because the outer bolts tie into a part of the block that has a lot more metal than the main webbing. but if you're making enough power to need splayed main caps, you'd probably be better off going with an aftermarket block all together.
gen III blocks (LS1 and such) are six bolt blocks. regular 4 bolts in from the bottom and two bolts in from the sides. badass straight from the factory!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baddest434
and 1 more smart ass answer by you and i'm going to reach into this monitor and grab you by the throat
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