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Old 09-21-2006, 09:26 PM   #1
r0nin89
 
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400rwhp what rear?

My plans and ideas bounce all over but someone once told me that the simpler the cheaper and the cheaper the better. After realising that an all forged twin turbo 355 would probably cost me twice as much as I thought I looked into the my first idea from back in the day of a 383. I'm thinking I'd like to build it with upgraded vortec heads for around 400hp. The question is what do I need for a rear to hold 400rwhp?


PS: I made this new thread because the old one was cluttered and constantly changing. Not to mention that I need to make sure people take the torque of a stroker motor into consideration.
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:51 PM   #2
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a heavy duty 9" or a 12 bolt should work.
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Old 09-22-2006, 06:59 AM   #3
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Ah ok thats what I thought. I was throwing the question out there to see if I could take any cheaper route.
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:15 AM   #4
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you could find a junkyard one, but then you would need to weld the brackets in the correct spots, that would be the cheaper route.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:37 AM   #5
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build up the 10 bolt with an auburn pro rear, richmond gears, and weld the axles tubes. my car was running 11's on taht rear for almost 3 years and when taken apart it was like new shape and now the parts are in little g's car and his prof mechanic said he couldnt believe it. and yes the car got traction cutting 1.50-1.59 60's yanking the wheels.
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:47 PM   #6
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i agree with camaroracer. a beefed up 10bolt will be strong and cost half of what a 12boltwould cost.
if you are planing to go for even more power in the future, i would suggest a 12bolt over a 9inch. both cost about the same and are capable of holding all hte power a street car will ever make, but the 12bolt has less internal resistance. that leaves more power making it tothe ground.
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Old 09-22-2006, 07:30 PM   #7
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the 10-bolt can be made to handle good power on the street for minimal $$$ BUT if you plan on launching at the track on slicks...12 bolt all the way.

10 bolt + slicks = pieces
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:40 PM   #8
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Ah this is good news... I never plan on launching slicks. Racer about how much did building that rear cost you?
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:06 PM   #9
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http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html

Dude I got that from the tech articles of tgo, where you are a member too, Im not trying to bust ur ball's but Im trying to help you out so you dont have "click funny inside" threads in 10 months
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:28 PM   #10
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Yeah I read up on that thread was just wondering what it personally cost him.
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:06 PM   #11
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Just price out the parts. Auburn Pro diff is between $400 and $450, gears are $175ish, installation is usually $200-$350 at a shop.

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Old 09-25-2006, 01:07 PM   #12
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What about bearings, upgrades axels, all that fun stuff?
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Old 09-25-2006, 01:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonzoHansen
What about bearings, upgrades axels, all that fun stuff?
I didn't feel like looking up the prices. I just dropped out what I knew off of the top of my head.

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Old 09-25-2006, 02:39 PM   #14
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If you do it right with a 10 bolt it costs about $850-$1000.00 to make it as bullet proof as posisble, depending on how much you want/can do yourself. Again with you running an A4 I think the 10 is the more cost effective and "good enough" way for you to go but if you plan on future mods get a 12 bolt now and save the money you would need in the future.
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