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Old 09-24-2017, 01:40 AM   #1
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best way to bleed rear brakes

I just replaced all my hoses and metal lines along with the master. I bled the abs unit and i get fluid out of the front calipers but not the rears. Ive read the abs needs to activate. Others say use a scanner, gravity bleed or stop hard on a gravel roadway or even hit the brakes as the car is on jack stands or even bang on the sensor at the rear wheels or unplug the battery and abs electrical connections then bleed. I dont have that type of scanner unless a store loans them out. Which way should I go about doing this.
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Old 09-24-2017, 06:33 AM   #2
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Old school style. Have someone pump the pedal with slow full pumps. Third pump they hold, you crack open the bleeder and close it. Repeat. If you get nothing, pull the bleeder out completely and make sure its not clogged
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Old 09-24-2017, 08:05 AM   #3
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Yup, exactly what Tim said has always worked for me. Very rarely do you have to bleed the abs unit.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:23 AM   #4
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Hmm that's what I was doing........
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:13 PM   #5
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Looks l the fitting for the main front to rear at the valve is the wrong size length wise. It's abut 1/8 shorter than the original and does not hold the flare flush and tight. What a pita. How hard would it be if I cut the new fitting off and add the old correct fitting. I'm worried about trying to double flare stainless
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:15 PM   #6
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Here is the old vs new fitting.
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File Type: jpg 20170923_131428.jpg (95.7 KB, 25 views)
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Old 09-24-2017, 05:39 PM   #7
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never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol
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Old 09-24-2017, 06:50 PM   #8
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So when the fitting is tight, does the line have play in it? And the stainless has a bubble flare as well? If it were leaking, you should have fluid coming out there. You didn't say either way, just curious. You could even take the rear feed line off and bleed with your finger at the module like you would a master. If you still don't have fluid/pressure, try at the feed line into the module. Nothing there, bleed the master. Fun times! Let us know how you make out.

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never had to bleed the module done tons of GM cars /trucks (the brake lines rot out )lol
It depends, I've done many complete systems on gmt-800's and have had to bleed the abs module sometimes. Other platforms as well, never an f-body personally.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:41 PM   #9
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Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it. I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:09 PM   #10
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Yes when the fitting is tight the line has play in it. I looked closer as my friend pumped the pedal and I can see fluid and air pushing and pulling. Im going to call the Co. who made them in the morning
Where did you get the lines?
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Old 09-25-2017, 07:24 AM   #11
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If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:43 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
If you can get your hands on a hydraulic flaring tool, I'd cut the flares and reuse the old fitting.
Yeah, that would be rough to do with a manual flaring tool.
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:09 PM   #13
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Classic tube made them. They wanted me to cut the original fitting and send it to them and they would add it to a new line. I matched one up from the parts store and sent it to them.
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Old 09-30-2017, 08:49 AM   #14
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On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping. This seems to be common with stainless lines. But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS. I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin.
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Old 09-30-2017, 08:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff View Post
it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping.
I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks

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Old 09-30-2017, 10:04 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JL8Jeff View Post
On my 2001 Silverado I replaced the brake lines with stainless lines and it took 2 weeks of retightening at the abs module to get them to finally stop the slow dripping. This seems to be common with stainless lines. But I tried doing the quick stop on a gravel road (and rebleeding multiple times) to work the air through the ABS and could never fully get rid of it so you might need to go to a shop that has the equipment to allow bleeding through the ABS. I wouldn't wait until an emergency situation to find out one side has air and the other doesn't, you could end up in a spin.
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I've found that you need to tighten and loosen 6-8 times when you first install them and they will finally seat and not leak after the initial install. I've done it that way on 5 cars now and no leaks
You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166 588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2 0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
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Old 09-30-2017, 10:46 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherburner View Post
You could also buy some copper flare washers for the, particularly tough ones.
https://www.grainger.com/product/5WRW0?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166 588641592!!!!82128342357!&ef_id=Vh7mqgAABOsDfonE:2 0170930150158:s&kwid=productads-adid^166588641592-device^c-plaid^82128342357-sku^5WRW0-adType^PLA
Never seen those before. Would probably be a b*tch to put in out of position, but there's no need for them with the stainless
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:05 AM   #18
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An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also. Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it. The old one was fine......
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Old 10-04-2017, 07:50 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cycomiko View Post
An update. The new line is in and is nice and snug but I still can't get fluid to the rear. I've tried everything gravity vacuum etc. It was killing me then I decided to check the two fittings on the master and wallah the front bore fitting is not pushing fluid and the master is weeping behind it also. Is it a defective unit? Did I not bleed all the air out? Is it toast? Should I try to bleed it or just put the old one back on and return it. The old one was fine......
You are talking about a leak between the booster and master, correct? If so, I believe a seal in the master is bad.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:23 AM   #20
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I'd put the old one back on if the new one is leaking between the booster and master. As for there being no fluid coming out, it could be some trapped air, not fully engaging the master, or a defective unit.
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Old 10-04-2017, 08:38 AM   #21
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Did you bench bleed it first? Sometimes air gets stuck if you don't bench bleed it. I have one of those bleeder kits and you can watch the fluid go through the clear lines and see if there are tiny air bubbles or if the front is pushing fluid and the rear isn't. I remember having to really push the pedal all the way on one of my vehicles to get the rear fluid moving.
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Old 10-04-2017, 09:49 PM   #22
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Ok Finally! I installed the old still working master and all is ok. The new master kit did not come with a bleeder kit just the screw in plugs and we bled it on the car with the plugs in and didnt see any bubbles. I even bought a universal bleed kit and the fittings dont fit. Lol This car fought me to the end on this job. No problems with the abs either. Thanks Guys.....
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Old 10-05-2017, 10:33 AM   #23
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I usually just stick it in a vise, one guy pushes the plunger with a screwdriver and the other guy holds two cups to catch fluid and puts fingers over holes before the plunger is released. It has never given me an issue. Glad you got it sorted though!
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