Questions before header install

[SeanC]

Okay, i'm definitly planning on getting a tune (just not sure when yet). If I left the rear O2s disconnected without simulators, will the engine run right? I know the SES light will be on...I thought I read that when the SES light is on the computer goes into a "safe" mode or something, and does not run up to its potential.

I don't want to to spend money on O2 sims if i'm just going to get them tuned out when i get a tune in the future....

[Tru2Chevy]

Certain issues that set of the SES will force the engine to run in "limp home" mode, however rear O2s are not one of them. To be on the safe side, you should have the car scanned just to verify that the only code(s) that the SES is for are the rear O2s.

- Justin

[SeanC]

Okay, awesome. I have a scanner so i'll just double check that the SES light is because of the O2s. I should be going home to work on the car more this weekend (hopefully get it close to being done). I'll keep you guys updated, and i'm sure i'll have more questions haha

[JL8Jeff]

You may want to try and put the passenger side header up into place while you have the motor jacked up to do the mount on that side. I would do the driver's side motor mount first, then the passenger side and slide the header up into place while it's jacked up and before you put the bolt through the mount.

[SeanC]

I'm not going to have to jack the motor up for the drivers side? The passengers side seems like it has WAY more room than the drivers side...

[JL8Jeff]

You'll need to jack it up to do both sides but it will give you more room to slide the header into place on the passenger side with it disconnected and jacked up. And with the emission's headers you'll see what I'm talking about when the AIR and EGR tubes get caught on everything as you try to get it in place. I think it makes it easier if you move the alternator as well.

[Pampered-Z]

Originally Posted by SeanC

Also, the two magnaflow cats (universal 3" spun) I bought do not have any type of heat shield on them. Is this something I may have a problem with as far as them getting really hot and heating up the floor in the car? (not really sure where they will be positioned exactly).

Floor Pan? Do you realize that depending on where the cat is located the driver's side cat is going to be sitting inches away from your plastic fuel lines?

You want to address that. I wraped the fuel lines in heat resistent wrap, then made a heat sheild that is also coated with a mat.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/14020/10002/-1

You want the one that has velco if you can find it. if not, what I did was take the thread out, wrap it around the lines and sew it back together.... Allot of work!

once the lines were wrapped I build an aluminum sheild covered with this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Thermo+Tec/893/16500/10002/-1

[SeanC]

I bought this heat resistant "tape" (DEI cool tape) that is made to wrap around wires/fuel lines/ etc. I'm going to have to see where the CAT is going to be positioned before I can decide on what further steps I have to take. I really dont have any idea where the exhaust shop needs to weld the cats into the y-pipe to have them fit right....

[LTb1ow]

There is not many people out there that do this...hope they kinda help ya.

[SeanC]

They're definitly helpful; thanks for posting them for me! Maybe i'll take the pictures when I go to the exhaust shop (where is yet to be determined..). I'm sure they will have somewhat of an idea of where the best place to locate them would be..

[LTb1ow]

Sorry for the tiny pic, but passenger side cat can go right after the header, driver side will be a hassle. But if it were my car, I would stick it after the first bend after the header.

[SeanC]

Yeah thats what I was thinking, although its hard for me to picture where everything will line up once its all installed. Hoping to get everything in this weekend!

[JL8Jeff]

Here's my old 96 SS. This was before I had them welded up. The driver's side leaked a little because it was so close to the bend. The muffler shop charged me $40 to weld them because I had already installed them so it was no risk to them.

[SeanC]

Thats a nice setup....hoping to have mine similar to that, just hope I got the right cats for the job... And im praying that the exhaust shop isnt going to charge a ton. I dont really have the tools to cut the y-pipe and everything, so theyre going to have to do the whole deal..

[JL8Jeff]

All you really need is a hacksaw to cut the y-pipe. That is a very important tool and you should own one. I've cut a lot of piping with the hacksaw. The sawzall is good for quick cuts but it's not clean enough.

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by JL8Jeff

All you really need is a hacksaw to cut the y-pipe. That is a very important tool and you should own one. I've cut a lot of piping with the hacksaw. The sawzall is good for quick cuts but it's not clean enough.

Yea, and most people should have at least the body of one, just grab some nice blades at home depot. They cut through exhaust piping very easy, and those clamps that Jeff used are lifesavers if you cannot afford or get to a welder. I use prob like four of them on my car... But they get very tight and work well, much much much better than that crappy U clamps that crush the pipe and make install later MIIISERABLE..

[RamAir95TA]

Originally Posted by LTs1ow

Yea, and most people should have at least the body of one, just grab some nice blades at home depot. They cut through exhaust piping very easy, and those clamps that Jeff used are lifesavers if you cannot afford or get to a welder. I use prob like four of them on my car... But they get very tight and work well, much much much better than that crappy U clamps that crush the pipe and make install later MIIISERABLE..

Band clamps FTW! I have five of them holding my exhaust together. It's great!

[NastyEllEssWon]

sawzall ftw....one of the best investments you can make.

[SeanC]

Hmmm...I honestly dont have a good hacksaw (still working on my tool collection - i'm only 20). I'm not against buying one, i'm just afraid i'm going to screw up my y-pipe by cutting it and not being happy with the position of the cats. You guys don't think I should leave it to a professional?

Waking up at 8 AM tomorrow to take on the motor and trans mount(s)!! Hoping to get all mounts done tomorrow so I can get the headers installed Sunday (and hopefully get everything more or less buttoned up).

[deadtrend1]

Originally Posted by SeanC

.... You guys don't think I should leave it to a professional?...

very hard to get a professional to install them as it is illegal for them to touch it.

[SeanC]

I'm sure I could find someone....Maybe i'll try to get a quote for someone to do it, and if I have trouble or it is really expensive i'll try to do it myself...

[NastyEllEssWon]

eh dont worry about the y pipe anyway...it most likely wont lineup with the header collector location anyway and any competant exhaust shop can bend a y easily.



i hacked an exhaust off once with a hacksaw and refuse to do it ever again....because it sucks to do. sawzall is the best way. 10 seconds and its done

[SeanC]

Haha i'm going to be really mad if my y-pipe doesnt line up.......Hopefully i'll find out soon enough

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by deadtrend1

very hard to get a professional to install them as it is illegal for them to touch it.

How so?

"racecar" use, I had no problem finding shops to weld in the cats to my Y pipe.. granted I never did.. but thats another story.

[SeanC]

Problem...I'm trying to replace the drivers side motor mount, I have the bolt out, but when I try to jack the motor by the oil pan, the entire car tries to lift up. Unfortunately I did not notice this right away, and my oil pan got dented a little (nothing bad, just a tiny bit)....I have no idea what to do. Why is the car moving instead of the motor? Please help!