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Old 03-18-2019, 03:57 PM   #276
WildBillyT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6 View Post
I was in rare form. Good no one was around.



The damn nut strips out too easily. Where my oil filter sits relative to header and oil pan kick out, getting anything in there is a total PITA let alone getting leverage to do what needed to be done. The first time it happened I was using a 12 pt socket when I should have just found a 5 pt. This time around, it just didn't want to come off. I am always careful to not go ham on tightening these for that exact issue. I had a Wix in stock so that went in.



When I go for the lexan windshield.
Gotcha. Wasn't sure if there was a performance issue with the filter itself. I've had the same issue with them- the nut itself seems shallow and pre-rounded.
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:05 PM   #277
Blackbirdws6
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Gotcha. Wasn't sure if there was a performance issue with the filter itself. I've had the same issue with them- the nut itself seems shallow and pre-rounded.
It wouldn't have been a big deal aside from the lack of access. I like the larger size of the filter but done with the stupid nut design.
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17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
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Old 03-18-2019, 04:41 PM   #278
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Why did you yank ac?
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Old 03-18-2019, 05:46 PM   #279
Blackbirdws6
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Why did you yank ac?
Used it once since you charged it, drive with top down about 99% of the time, kids think it's racecar and I actually like the cleaner look.
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17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
06 Merc BLS55
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:35 PM   #280
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Damn kids.

When does the nitrous kit go on?
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:36 PM   #281
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whew! thats a nice update. didnt know what you had planned for the main car of your ever growing fleet.. but thats some good stuff. had never heard of that white heat coating on the headers. let us know how it works out after a year of use etc.
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:50 PM   #282
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Damn kids.

When does the nitrous kit go on?
When your car goes faster than mine.

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Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
whew! thats a nice update. didnt know what you had planned for the main car of your ever growing fleet.. but thats some good stuff. had never heard of that white heat coating on the headers. let us know how it works out after a year of use etc.
We will see how it lasts and for the cost....it better. The coating sure is tough. I beat the crap out of the driver side header and the coating somehow held up. Let's see how it does after some LTx nuclear level heat.
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17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
06 Merc BLS55
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:01 PM   #283
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But why male models ?
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:05 PM   #284
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Soooo it's been a while and a good bit has been happening behind the scenes for those not following on IG/FB. Normally I'm better about taking pics and posting progress but it just didn't happen well this time. For those that care and like a story, here is the run through of where we are today.

Last you saw, the AC was removed and like most of you that know me, I couldn't just go for the cheap $30 A/C delete pulley nor the "backyard fab" accessory bracket for that slick low mount style. No I had to go for the pricey pulley set machined from billet to serve my needs and lighten my wallet.



I didn't like how the power steering pump pulley looked so this little gem got the nod as well.



I then ventured off into buying a bunch of heavy welding wire cable, crimping/cutting tools, eyelets, etc to finalize the connections throughout the car. As you may recall, Adam was kind enough to help run the main wires through the interior and Kirk swung up for half an evening to get the relocated battery box in it's final resting place along with the cutoff switch. Adam's idea of trying to mount the switch so that the rod would go through the trunk key lock panned out very well so that's what we did. Kirk machined the rod to the appropriate length so that all came out great.




Since all the big decisions were made, most of the rest of the work was up to me due to schedule conflicts and other more important life events.

Exhaust:
When Smash was here, the headers came out fairly easy on the drivers side but the passenger side was a bitch. I decided since I was doing this solo, I would start on the hard side so as not to end up tired and frustrated when I needed my sanity and energy the most. Well that didn't go as planned. The passenger side went in fairly well but the drivers side was a fight. I can't remember a time I was more angry and frustrated. During my attempt to install it, I managed to wedge it into a position that I swore would require something to be cut. After calming myself down more times than I care to mention, I somehow got it free and didn't destroy the coating in the process. I managed to get the header in with some painters tape and persuasion however the oil filter took a good hit and needed to be replaced.

Sweaty and very tired, I look up at the oil filter and have no idea why I'm seeing a K&N unit with the stupid nut at the bottom. I swore off of these after my last issue with the dumb nut but I guess the inner cheap in me made me use one I probably had in stock. I took my time and was careful but sure enough, the nut stripped so I was in for another fight. That battle ended the same evening but in the end, I was pretty shocked I got these things done.

Next came the y-pipe which was thankfully straightforward in getting some fresh gaskets and RTV high temp on the tail end.




Battery/Wiring:

As mentioned, Kirk helped get the position of everything finalized which was a huge help. He installed the power/ground jump leads on the bottom of the car so should I have an issue with the battery, I can get the vehicle power/started or just get the damn trunk open. Remember this is a vert and I'm a husky gentleman so slipping through the area into the trunk with cables won't be fun or possible.



Next you will see where the cutoff switch was mounted under the trunk lid release.



Next we have the almost finished product. I removed the CD changer and rescued the mix CD's I had in there for future.




Now I know what you may say....but Brian, where did your subs go. Don't worry, I will be finding a way to get at least one sub back in the trunk. I am likely just going to cut the box and recarpet it so it fits between the battery and other side of the trunk well.

Finished switch rod


For now, I'm keeping it in and can easily unscrew it when not at the racetrack. I want to get something nice to plug the hole when not in use.

Adam came up and helped finalize some of the wire connections up front since I was generally gun shy about making the final cuts. He did a great job replacing the power block with a new one hidden in the fender well. I didn't get a pic of it before installing the fender line and for that I'm sorry.

We were hopefully of getting a first re-start on this day but as I was tightening the nut for the starter power post, I heard a couple small cracks. I didn't realize what it was until things got very loose.



I debated ordering a new starter or replacing just the solenoid. A new one was only a little over $100 so I figured why not. The new Amazon Delco professional unit arrived and was nearly outside the box. They decided to ship it in the OE box which wasn't fit for transport. While it looked generally OK, I wasn't happy. A couple phone calls later and I got a refund plus they didn't want it back....OK sure!

Since my OG starter worked fine minus the new window, Smash said why not swap the solenoid. A few stubborn bolts later on the new unit and some grinding for access and I had it off. The starter was now in and secured but required a bit too many spacers for my liking due to the new big cables.



I connected new grounds in the front of the car and utilized existing holes in the block and the sway bar mounts that no longer had any use. For the rear, holes were drilled in the framerail but later they received welded studs for a nice secure connection.

Accessory Bracket:
No instructions were included so I was looking at a bag of various hardware, different length bolts, washers, etc. This was definitely one of those install it and redo things as you go situation. Eventually everything found there home and I really love the look and access provided. A friend on Facebook with the same setup provide a ton of helpful pics which were invaluable to shortening the install process.






Everything looked pretty well lined up but that wasn't the case. The crank pulley sits just a bit out from everything (always has) so when Adam came up, he helped me add spacers to the bracket. Now all is well.

There are many other things I will include in another post, include a weird starting issue, but its Friday and Miller time.

Here are some pics to take you into the weekend.












And most importantly....
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17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
06 Merc BLS55
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Old 06-16-2019, 07:00 PM   #285
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1. Can you link me to all things used for the jump leads below the rear bumper? Id like to add those as well since i have to rear lock cyl either.

2. our cars are complete opposites. you figure what parts you want and get everything together on your own, then the pals help with the install. While i have a team of pal advisors on what to do, but am left to do all the install my self.

3.
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:15 AM   #286
Blackbirdws6
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Originally Posted by LS1ow View Post
1. Can you link me to all things used for the jump leads below the rear bumper? Id like to add those as well since i have to rear lock cyl either.

2. our cars are complete opposites. you figure what parts you want and get everything together on your own, then the pals help with the install. While i have a team of pal advisors on what to do, but am left to do all the install my self.

3.
1. Sent you a link via text.

2. I still consult and you don't end up with a built LTx without having a few screws loose. I don't hide the fact that I need help with things but I do so for a few reasons. 1) I may know generally what to do when it comes to "car things" however my execution is hindered when working on the Bird. I overthink it all and don't/can't commit. I seem to do much better working on literally anything else. 2) I enjoy time with Pals and sometimes working on something is the excuse. You don't really know my father but it's a DeLuca tradition to "do things" while hanging out. There is very minimal chill with us unfortunately. 3) Physically I need to watch that I don't end up hunched over in a wheel chair drifting into an opioid induced coma.

3. You're making some big changes while I'm just optimizing what I have. I think this will come down to whether your car survives the changes and future abuse.
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Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140

17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
06 Merc BLS55
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:26 PM   #287
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awesome update. good work dude!

I will be venturing into the battery relocation and on/off switch this winter as well. I haven't done too much research on it yet, but i'll revisit your thread and ask some questions when its time.
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Old 07-10-2019, 10:36 AM   #288
Blackbirdws6
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TL;DR - Long term voltage issue with high RPM, alternator being spun too high, replaced alternator with proper pulley, life is good.

Long read:

Quick update. I've noticed a battery voltage issue even before the relocation of the battery where with RPM, I would see volts gradually drop during a pull. It never seemed to cause an issue with how the car ran but always bugged me. I was thinking it could have been poor belt alignment causing belt slip (always been off a rib on the balancer). I've lived with it for years since the blower first went on the car. The belt never chucked itself and it all worked so life went on.

Since I have this new bracket, now was the time to get the alignment right. Even with the alignment where it needs to be, volts still dropped during a pull which was enough to trigger the check gauges light on the dash.

After doing a bit of reading, it seemed that I may have a couple issues. One being that my alternator may be a bit tired but more prominently, I may be overspinning the alternator causing it to essentially shut down. Doing some quick math and guessing at the pulley size I had on the car, I was likely spinning the alternator to somewhere in the 22k+ range in the upper RPMs. Not good as most only want to spin to 16-18k. Oops.

Assuming the current alternator was trashed, I decided to spend money (Not shocking I know), and grabbed a 200A unit from Powermaster in matte black. I spoke to their tech folks who were very helpful and after doing the math, I needed to grab their 2.5" pulley to keep the idle and upper RPM speed within spec. A few days later, Summit got the package to me and Smash came up to toss it in. I was actually going to tackle this one myself but I decided to slip a disc in my back this prior weekend and while I was doing much better, needed to take it easy.

New alternator went in and guess what, it worked!! Volts were strong at idle and after taking it for a ride yesterday evening, voltage did not drop at all up to near redline. I also was dealing with a fuel pressure drop in the upper RPM range; I assume associated with the reduced voltage from the charging system. That is also cured as well. The fuel system has provided enough fuel but its not a good look to see the pressure dip when you likely need/want it the most.

One less thing....

Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
awesome update. good work dude!

I will be venturing into the battery relocation and on/off switch this winter as well. I haven't done too much research on it yet, but i'll revisit your thread and ask some questions when its time.
Thanks!
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97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140

17 C7Z - 10.83 @ 128
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
81 Turbo TA
06 Merc BLS55
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Old 07-12-2019, 06:45 PM   #289
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Certainly quite the jig saw you gots. Shiny and billet but complex
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