1971 Firebird

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by usp55

Prob right but the oe stype screw ins have a much higher price. $70-$100. can pick up a probe style for $30ish. Gona search some more but cost might play a factor here. Aslong as its reliable and does the same job then im ok with that.

Summit has them for ~$40 all the time

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HYP-4026/

$38.95


Edit:
also, wiring the HEI is easy. You can use your current coil leads to power a relay and then run full voltage to the HEI. That is how we did Bear's 73, although his did not have the ballast resistor wire anymore.

[usp55]

OK so this is the hei - far less confusing than i once though but still questions
the plug from the bottom does fit into the cap - didn't notice there are two spots there. so It looks like all i have to do it have a line from the bat and a line from the tack.

now on the old points one i had two lines going to the coil on my firewall, is that my power and tack lines? obviously I need to 10g wire now for the hei but that would make locating the tack wire so much easier. Now do i just run a wire with a fusible link in it to the hei right off that battery (+)? there is a nice little connection built right into my new +power cable going from the bat to the starter. If not where should the power come from then.

also do u thing one of those two line that went to my coil is from the tack? couldn't I just hook that up? Excuse my ignorance if Im over simplifying this

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by usp55

Now do i just run a wire with a fusible link in it to the hei right off that battery (+)? there is a nice little connection built right into my new +power cable going from the bat to the starter. If not where should the power come from then.

Originally Posted by PolarBear

HEI is as simple as hooking up the hot wire to a switched ignition source and then you can hook up the tach

Reading FTW
if you hook it to the battery it will be on all the time. What you can do is to put a relay inline from the battery and run the trigger to the relay to a switched ignition source.

I was trying to be sarcastic, sorry if you didnt take it that way. I had a really rough day at work

[usp55]

yeah but its over rated, thanks though

[PolarBear]

Scott said the same thing in post 151 too

[BonzoHansen]

Oh bear, lol.

Mine gets straight battery voltage via a relay. I use the IGN circuit to power a number of relays and such. I just used a simple fuse, not a link.

[usp55]

ok its all hooked up, well just about. somehow my test light crapped out so i went out to get a new one , but anyway the only three 10g wires coming from the firewall. 2 were hot all the time and the purple would give me anything, maybe a bum fuse. Either way ill find something to hook it to. Maybe have to do what you did bonzo

Thanks polar/bonzo. I think about this car all day at work and must have read the posts about the hei atleast 10 times but never really understood it. Makes complete sense now.

Ordered a pypes 2.5" violator system today so that should make my neighbors happy.


quick question: rotors came in yesterday. the bearing I got have the bearing itself and a metal ring around them. Inside the rotor it looks like the same exact outer ring is already installed. normal right?, so i discard the one with the bearing and just lube it all up properly and install the bearings. sorry if thats a stupid one.

[PolarBear]

Originally Posted by usp55

ok its all hooked up, well just about. somehow my test light crapped out so i went out to get a new one , but anyway the only three 10g wires coming from the firewall. 2 were hot all the time and the purple would give me anything, maybe a bum fuse. Either way ill find something to hook it to. Maybe have to do what you did bonzo

Purple should be the starter wire? That is the only one I can think of that is a heavy gauge and purple..... I dont think you need 10 gauge either, the old points stuff should work, or you could use the old wire to the points and use that to trigger a relay and use the hot wire off the horn relay. He used the hot from the horn relay

[camaro2you]

Originally Posted by usp55

ok its all hooked up, well just about. somehow my test light crapped out so i went out to get a new one , but anyway the only three 10g wires coming from the firewall. 2 were hot all the time and the purple would give me anything, maybe a bum fuse. Either way ill find something to hook it to. Maybe have to do what you did bonzo

Thanks polar/bonzo. I think about this car all day at work and must have read the posts about the hei atleast 10 times but never really understood it. Makes complete sense now.

Ordered a pypes 2.5" violator system today so that should make my neighbors happy.


quick question: rotors came in yesterday. the bearing I got have the bearing itself and a metal ring around them. Inside the rotor it looks like the same exact outer ring is already installed. normal right?, so i discard the one with the bearing and just lube it all up properly and install the bearings. sorry if thats a stupid one.

What do you mean by metal ring?

[usp55]

Originally Posted by PolarBear

Purple should be the starter wire? That is the only one I can think of that is a heavy gauge and purple..... I dont think you need 10 gauge either, the old points stuff should work, or you could use the old wire to the points and use that to trigger a relay and use the hot wire off the horn relay. He used the hot from the horn relay

yes, starter purple wire. red was hot all the time and a black wire with a red line was also hot all the time. I read the hei would require more power and to not reuse the wires from the points syatem for the power. hmm. also says to just wire it right to the fuse box.

Originally Posted by camaro2you

What do you mean by metal ring?

metal ring, deep as the bearing ans tapered. Bearing sits right in it.here

[Featherburner]

Originally Posted by usp55

metal ring, deep as the bearing ans tapered. Bearing sits right in it.

it's called the race.

[BonzoHansen]

You can't power the HEI with the same lead the points distributor used because there should be a ballast resistor that steps down the voltage.

A relay setup is best bet. Pull power off horn relay as mentioned. Trigger it with the factory IGN lead - it might not be hot in start position, test it. But there should be another lead top the coil that is hot only at start.

Here, ignore the details on this pic, just look at the circuits.

87: to the HEI - 12g is more than sufficient. W/O looking I'd bet 14 is ok.
30: with a 10 amp blade fuse to the horn relay/distribution point. Again 12g/same as 87
85: ground - small is fine, 18g or whatever
86: Hot@run (IGN-pink?) and hot@start (not sure color)

[usp55]

Another long wait between posts because not much has changed. New brakes and stuff are on. Ran the new hard lines also. Some other little odd and ends were done too.

Just two questions this time. Does the prop valve rust out if if its just been sitting dry? Do I need a new one? And I have a new master cylinder coming but don't believe the rod is on it, how do I get the old rod assembly off the old one?

[IMG][/IMG]

[BonzoHansen]

prop valve s/b fine.

MC rod? S/B in the booster or through the f/w attached to the pedal, I believe

[usp55]

Rod thaT comes out the back and goes through firewall

[BonzoHansen]

It does not attach to the MC. See the pic.

[usp55]

This

How to remove, and is it tranferable to the new one

[BonzoHansen]

I think it should just come off, but let me check some manuals. I always has PB cars.

[usp55]

Just poped it off, thanks. Wasn't sure if there was alittle clip or something. Overthinking it again

[BonzoHansen]

Ok, the GM book does not mention it in the removal steps, but in the installation steps it basically says push it on. And look at this pic in the Haynes manual. No fasteners.

I think it should pull off. I'd lightly pry it w/a screwdriver.



edit: lol, I did not refresh the thread.

[usp55]

Right on the money. Bent it alittle but it finally came off.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by usp55

Another long wait between posts because not much has changed. New brakes and stuff are on. Ran the new hard lines also. Some other little odd and ends were done too.

Just two questions this time. Does the prop valve rust out if if its just been sitting dry? Do I need a new one? And I have a new master cylinder coming but don't believe the rod is on it, how do I get the old rod assembly off the old one?

[IMG][/IMG]

Couple things.

1.) That brake hose looks too tight. What happens when you turn your wheel all the way to the left?

2.) Your prop valve shouldn't get rusty. I believe it's brass.

3.) Be careful to attach the master cyl pushrod to the right hole on the pedal. There may be two- one for power and one for manual. They are set up this way because manual brakes need more leverage from a different pivot point.

[BonzoHansen]

Does look tight but that is full droop. But I would reinspect after everything is together

Good point on the pedal attachment.

[usp55]

I think the picure is a bad angle and it looks tight but even when the wheel is tured all the way either way its got enough. So no worries esp when its off the jacks but il check when i drop it.

I took a pic of the MC rod though the firewall and there is really only one place for it to go and the car is factory manual brakes. I bagged every nut a bolt but for some reason i cant find the fastener for the mc rod to the bp.




New MC and new lines are ran so all i have to do is blead the breaks. Any tips or tricks? And dot3?

[sweetbmxrider]

start from the furthest from the master and work closer (r/r, l/r, r/f, l/f)
pump it a few times then hold, crack bleeder, watch air bubble out, close bleeder, let off pedal. dot 3 should be fine.

you can crack the bleeders and let them self bleed for a little too, just open a slight turn and let sit for half an hour.