Anybody who plays paintball, Autococker time

[2kblackgtp]

So I bought an Eclipse factory autococker last month on a steal. It has an e1, samurai trigger, sidewinder, Stiffi Switch kit(had it from my mini) and a couple other little things. I bought a Tadao Yakuza board, eclipse nexus ram, and qev's for it that haven't been installed yet. The eyes dont seem to work so i think I'm going to get a set of break beam eyes for it.

I dry fired it a few times and it seemed alright and was pretty fast, but when I went to the field the other day, once I put paint in it, the gun was shooting at a really low velocity even when i tried turning the velocity up on the back of the gun. Anyone know someone or a shop that can look at the gun and tune it? I'm pretty new to cockers so I'm kind of in the dark.

[LTb1ow]

that dur kirkevil luvz them things yo

[KirkEvil]

customcockers.com is a great place for info.

Looks like you bought top of the line parts, but it still needs tuning. Your problem could be in a few places, but compare the e1 settings to similar setups to make sure the electronic timing is correct. If that checks out, you need to adjust the input pressure via the high pressure regulator, then tune the front low pressure reg and IVG screw.

If the input pressure is too high, it creates a force on the valve poppet that overides the internal springs. In this scenario, adjusting the rear velocity screw (its called an IVG) to compress the hammer spring will do nothing. And it can screw up the front pneumatics since you then need more more pressure to re-**** the hammer

The sweet spot for the IVG should be around 2 turns in from the back of the body, then adjust the high pressure reg until you meet the fps you want. Then change the settings on the e1 to time the shoot/re-****. Finally, turn down the front low pressure regulator as much as you can without experiencing shoot down.

Welcome to autocockers....tons of work for standard performance. Post pics!

[2kblackgtp]

That is the gun, it was bought exactly as seen minus the switch kit and the tank. I still plan on buying an eclipse lpr if someone sells one in chrome and for less than the ridiculous prices people are asking for a used part and a delrin bolt if I can find one for sale anywhere for a p block gun.

I'm already on custom cockers, thats actually where I got my ram from. I've been trying to read up on everything I can and I still feel like I'm in the dark. Let me ask, how much of the talk about the mq2 is hype?

How will I know when I have the HPR in check and its time to move onto the LPR and so on and so forth? I installed the yakuza which is brand new and I'm still getting the same problems, so I don't think its just the board settings. I'm in love with the gun even though its being doofy,its really comfortable and I've shot a couple ebladed cockers before so I'm sure once its working right I will really enjoy it

[KirkEvil]

Autocockers are more of a beauty contest than any other gun, and eclipse parts show that in part prices.

Most of my experience is in mechanical autocockers and I have a worrframe I bought 8 years ago. I think they call it a select fire now, but it doesnt have settings for timing and dwell. I cant really help you out too much with the eblade settings, or the MQ2 valve. All I know is it replaces the pancake solenoid with a spool valve solenoid, which will make the gun shoot a little faster, have less kick, and should be quieter.

If you think the eblade settings are close, then start playing with the pneumatics. Set the IVG screw to 2 turns in from the rear of the body. Then adjust the HPR until you come close to the feet per second that you want. Then adjust the LPR as low as possible, but it should still cycle. For adjusting the HPR, it would be ideal to do infront of a chrono.

If you just want it to "work" without exact tuning, set the output of the HPR to 400-450 psi, and turn the IVG screw until its shooting the speed you want....I doubt you will get shoot down with that input pressure. You will need to put a gauge on the output side of the reg. You can make a reg testing setup with a double port asa and connect that to the reg, then to your bottle off the gun. Or, you can put a gauge on the bottom of the front block where that set screw is. Idk if you can fit one with the angled vertical asa though.