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Old 09-28-2009, 08:55 PM   #26
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yea just checked they are redesigning a new batch ... oh well im lookin to do this around december so ive got some time yet
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:55 PM   #27
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Do you have a pic of your pacesetters?

Its a huge difference between mine and his.
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:01 PM   #28
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who me?
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:02 PM   #29
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nah, Kirk. His are pretty nasty looking.
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:10 PM   #30
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No I dont have a pic on hand...rusty headers are not something I am proud of Haha. They were installed Aug 08, and now there is no coating left on the bottom 12 inches of pipe. Im kind of pissed about it considering I bought them brand new.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:12 PM   #31
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Yea, and mine were installed before yours too... LOL
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:19 PM   #32
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pic of yours matt?
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:26 PM   #33
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Not to horrible, but eh. Mine are about a year or so old.
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Old 09-28-2009, 09:43 PM   #34
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you can see like a line where it changes from brown to silver
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:14 AM   #35
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If I were you I would find a used pair of kook’s headers and y-pipe with cats. It will be a couple of hundred more for used kooks over new pacesetters but it will be worth it. And there is a definite difference in seat of the pants power between mid and long tubes. Don't even bother with anything but longtubes.
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Old 09-29-2009, 08:50 AM   #36
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I had different headers on my car as it evolved and all were coated and all rusted somewhat. I currently have the Jethot Longtubes and even though I was very carefully to not scratch them and cleaned them before the initial startup and heat cycles they still rusted slightly around the welds at the collectors. I use Eastwood Ceramic header paint which does a great job of preventing the rust from spreading. The idea with Jethot coating is that they coat inside and out, that helps keep the heat inside the header and will (should) extend the life of the header. Some companies only coat the outside, so the headers simply rust from the inside out. But honestly, almost any coating is going to rust a bit. There is(was) a company that did header coating, it cost a small fortune but it held up. I'll have to go look for their name.

If your plan is to keep the engine mostly stock and driven often, I would say go with shorties, just because they will support mild mods and you don't have the ground clearance issues and such. Unless your trying to get every HP you can, the go longtubes.

As far as what gains, it really varies on the type of header and what you do behind them. Such as cats and Y-pipe. A good set of shorties, such as MAC will give you a far gain, probably 15-25HP. Where longtubes will give you 20-35HP. But all cars are different.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:57 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97camaro View Post
ahh scratch that last idea, too much work to coat them (prepping/painting/curing)

probably invest in the coated headers
I did that, just need to have a little patience with doing all that, and it came out very well.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:29 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
I did that, just need to have a little patience with doing all that, and it came out very well.
how did you cure it? thats the problem i might encounter
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:33 AM   #39
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Well I wantedto use my house stove, but after much debating, and understanding the fumes would be lethal lol, they have an on-car curing method to follow, it's right on the can.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:41 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
Well I wantedto use my house stove, but after much debating, and understanding the fumes would be lethal lol, they have an on-car curing method to follow, it's right on the can.
Blacdout96, you sir, are genious !

did you sand down right to bare metal ? or did you cover a pre-existing coating ?
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:21 PM   #41
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the paintthat they are shipped in is only good for that, being shipped, it has no temperature strength, thats why you see alot of people with rusty headers, they thought they were already painted, but it burns right off.

I got a cheap small sand blaster, and blasted all the paint off to the bare metal. rough up the surface a little if you want with like 180-220 grit sandpaper so the paint has somethign to hold onto. and when your done doing that, hit it with somethign that wont leave a residue like brake clean to get any metal leftover from the sanding. then paintaway and cure and your set.
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?

Last edited by Blacdout96; 09-29-2009 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:49 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
the paintthat they are shipped in is only good for that, being shipped, it has no temperature strength, thats why you see alot of people with rusty headers, they thought they were already painted, but it burns right off.

I got a cheap small sand blaster, and blasted all the paint off to the bare metal. rough up the surface a little if you want with like 180-220 grit sandpaper so the paint has somethign to hold onto. and when your done doing that, hit it with somethign that wont leave a residue like brake clean to get any metal leftover from the sanding. then paintaway and cure and your set.
sounds like a plan got any pics of yours?
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:01 PM   #43
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I do. This is when I was sandblasting them. the packign paint comes off quite easily.








And here's how they looked after I was done. I wrapped them in header wrap, so you cant see the quality, but even thought they werte covered up but the wrap, the outcome of them was fantastic after I was finished painting them.



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Quote:
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Uh yeah, after they surprized buttsecks us at Pearl Harbor?

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Old 09-29-2009, 03:54 PM   #44
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hmm that actually did turn out real nice !

also are locking header bolts really worth it? or would Loc-tite do the trick?
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:56 PM   #45
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locking header bolts ftw, that way when/ if you need to take them off, they'll come out with ease.
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:59 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blacdout96 View Post
locking header bolts ftw, that way when/ if you need to take them off, they'll come out with ease.
you make a valid point, what should i be looking for? ws6store has "stage 8 locking header bolts" both in stainless and lengths of 3/4" or 1" . . .
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:09 PM   #47
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I have been used the bolts that came with my pacesetters with no problems at all.
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repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:17 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTs1ow View Post
I have been used the bolts that came with my pacesetters with no problems at all.
any kinda loc-tite or just bolts?
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:20 PM   #49
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Just bolts.

No problems with the gaskets either. Just have to watch the bolts for the first week or so, and then they should be good to go.
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Old 09-29-2009, 07:08 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pampered-Z View Post
I currently have the Jethot Longtubes and even though I was very carefully to not scratch them and cleaned them before the initial startup and heat cycles they still rusted slightly around the welds at the collectors.
The nice thing about Jet Hot is they warranty their coating. If your headers start to rust, you can ship them back to Jet Hot and they will re-coat them for free. All you pay is shipping.

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