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Old 08-12-2004, 04:14 PM   #1
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82CAM

i saw you post in the south jersey section, took a look at your sig.

sweet:82 Camaro, 406SBC, Eagle 5.7 rods, Comp solid, .534, .534, SRP 11:1 Forged Pistons, Dart Pro1 215, Harland 1.65 Rockers, 825 Demon, CSI water Pump, SPAL Dual Fans, Hooker, TCI 3500, TH350, B&M, 12Bolt 3:90

did you have the heads worked? what springs do you have under those rockers? what crank did you go with? can you elaborate on your setup? if you're not comfortable with the whole world knowing, send me an email or PM.

i've got a 400 i'll be working on during the winter this year, and hopefully in spring it'll get stuffed into my '87.
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:58 AM   #2
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Hey Jim, The heads are Dart Pro1 215's and I'm running as bought already assembled with springs. Here the specs on them "1.437D = 130# @ 1.800� / .620� max Comp 987" These springs are for a Flat tappet solid Cam up to .620 lift that's why I went with the 1.65 rocker, they took me from .534 to .589 lift, but you can order the heads pre-assembled with valves and springs for hydraulic or roller cam too depending on your setup. The crank is a Scat cast steel 3.75 stroke which is stock stroke for the 400. When I put the motor together I wasn't planning on spraying and was on a budget, the brand new crank cost about $245 verses over $600 for a forged piece. Depends on how deep your pockets are. If you got any questions fire away I'd be glad to share.
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82 Camaro, 383SBC, Eagle Competition rotating assembly, Eagle 6.0 rods, Comp Solid Roller, .631, .630, 12.75 to 1, Dart Pro1 215 Alum. Heads, Harland Sharp 1.65 Rockers, 825 Demon Carb, CSI Elec. water Pump, SPAL Dual Fans, Hooker SuperComp, TransSpecialties 5000 stall Spagless convertor, TH350, B&M, 12Bolt 4:33 Full Spool, SFC, Ladder Bars, Lakewood Fronts, Comp. Eng. Adj. Rear Shocks, Skinny's, 15" 28x12.5 MT drags. 10.868@124.73
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Old 08-14-2004, 08:28 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by 82CAM
Hey Jim, The heads are Dart Pro1 215's and I'm running as bought already assembled with springs. Here the specs on them "1.437D = 130# @ 1.800� / .620� max Comp 987" These springs are for a Flat tappet solid Cam up to .620 lift that's why I went with the 1.65 rocker, they took me from .534 to .589 lift, but you can order the heads pre-assembled with valves and springs for hydraulic or roller cam too depending on your setup. The crank is a Scat cast steel 3.75 stroke which is stock stroke for the 400. When I put the motor together I wasn't planning on spraying and was on a budget, the brand new crank cost about $245 verses over $600 for a forged piece. Depends on how deep your pockets are. If you got any questions fire away I'd be glad to share.
the cheapest i can find those heads for is about $2200, with the three angle valve job. that's a pretty serious head. yep, i'll be getting a forged crank, as you never know what the future will hold

do you know what your compression ratio is? what head gaskets did you go with? what kind of oil setup do you have? i think it's awesome that people are still assembling their own blocks - especially when the crate motor is so available (and most of the time cheaper). i just want to be able to say that i built it.
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Old 08-14-2004, 12:00 PM   #4
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i am gonna be posting a few dozen parts for sale soon. there is a set of heads that may interest you if you are trying to build serious power

later
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Old 08-14-2004, 12:38 PM   #5
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If there are any changes made to an engine of mine, I am going to be the one working on it. It's not that I don't trust other people, but I would rather blame myself for a failure than have to assume it was someone else. Thats just my take on the whole crate engine vs do it yourself engine arguement
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and 1 more smart ass answer by you and i'm going to reach into this monitor and grab you by the throat
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Old 08-14-2004, 12:57 PM   #6
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Jim, the Dart Pro1 215 alum head fully assembled are $641 a piece at Summit for the same as I got, 2 yrs. ago when I got 'em I paid about $549 a head. SRP .030 over forge flat top piston PT# 138097 is rated 11.6 to 1 compression with 64cc head. I think when we cc'd everything I wound up with a little over 11 to 1. FelPro head gaskets #1014. Went with stock type flow oil pump, not a high volume pump, with moroso oil restricters up top drilled out to .125 and moroso windage tray into the stock pan. The only reason I remember is I kept all my paper work. I was able to put the long block together with heads for about $3700. with all new parts, every bolt new and Pioneer SFI balancer and Dart Kool Can manifold. That didn't include Carb or CSI water pump or Spal Fans. I used the same MSD distributor I had. All things considered I'm pretty happy with it. And your right you do get alot of satifaction when you do the research and figure out the setup and it actually comes out as planned.
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Old 08-15-2004, 09:05 AM   #7
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whoops... i took the number i got and multiplied by 2... ended up with $2200 instead of $1100, which is what it should be...

so, you're making a solid 450-500 horse and a little more in torque? i plugged them into DD2000, and that's what it spit out. that's the neighborhood i wanted to be in. and with a shot of giggle juice i could easily be in the 700 hp world.

i appreciate you sharing your info. the more input i get, the more i lean towards the Dart aluminum heads. you state in your sig that you have a solid lifter cam, 1.6 rockers and .589 lift? damn, that's tall. custom pushrods? how loud are those solid lifters? is this strictly a strip car or do you drive it on the street?

hot rod mag did a buldup very similar to your setup with a 450 SBC. it seems this setup will work on everything from a 350 to a 460 SBC, with good amounts of toque and hp, differing according to which block is used.

thanks again.
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Old 08-15-2004, 04:24 PM   #8
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Jim, I got a Comp Magnum solid Race cam. It is a small base circle for clearance on the 5.7' rods, the stock 400 rod is shorter at 5.625 if I'm recalling it correct. Lift is .534 with 1.5 rockers But I got the Harland Sharp 1.65 rockers so that is what gives me .589 lift. Duration is 250 on both intake and exhaust with a 110 lobe separation, it was also setup 4 degress advanced. The pushrods were +.100 long, heavy duty 3/8 .080 wall thickness they didn't have that nipple shape on the end that can be a weak point. The valvetrain is not noisy at all you can barely hear it and it stays adjusted the Harlands come with a good set of polylocks. I adjust them every once in a while just for the sake of going over them. It started out as a street strip car but it's more strip than street every once in a whlle i'll take it for a spin but for the most part it's a trailer queen now. If you get the Darts you'll have to have them drilled for steam holes on the 400 motor. No big deal cost $30 at the machine shop I was working with. Good Luck with the project!
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Old 08-15-2004, 06:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82cam
If you get the Darts you'll have to have them drilled for steam holes on the 400 motor. No big deal cost $30 at the machine shop I was working with. Good Luck with the project!
that's figured in with the cost of the heads (and goes without saying) but thanks for the headsup. the cash should be here just as i go insane with cabin fever this winter, so it will be a welcome diversion. i've been chomping on the bit since i picked up the block last year... just not enough cake all at once to get the job done/other priorites, etc. you know the drill.

just out of curiosity, did you tub the car for extra rubber room? i'm thinking about going with a four-link and tubs (once it gets the laughing gas and/or something a little more radical, i'll need the extra footprint). what kind of times are you running and at what weight?

and, to think, i initially bought this car for my wife...
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Old 08-15-2004, 06:08 PM   #10
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you can go very very quick without all teh expense adn effort of backhaving a 3rd gen. a good torque arm, control arm adn control arm relos along with a good tire will easily carry you into the low 9's.
i am planning to run well into teh 9's when i get my car done in the spring on only a 9.5inch tire(hoosier quick time pro 26x9.5x15's to be exact), and i only plan to use the cheater slicks if the m/t drag radials don't work out.


later
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Old 08-15-2004, 08:29 PM   #11
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sure, i see where you are coming from. but the four-link will need it's own sub-frame, which would be tied into the cage, which would be tied into the front sub-frame (the thigh bone is connected to the...) and who says a torque arm can't be used with the four-link? i saw a killer torque arm on banks' site that looked like it came all the way up the trans tunnel... while i'm mostly just bench racing at this point (it's all bench racing until you actually buy something)...

i'm definitely looking to over-engineer it. if i never need the flexibility of moving the instant center, so be it. however, if i do, i won't have to say "now, why didn't i do that when i had the money and the car in so many pieces..." i don't see it as a wasted move - more like getting a head start on the inevitable.
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Old 08-15-2004, 10:52 PM   #12
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Hey Jim, That's cool your wife understands you need the car for your project. My wife was all for me picking mine up knowing I wanted to race it, she did question me about how much life insurance I got later on. Sounds like you know what you want to do with the back end. I didn't tub it, I'm running it like it was when I first picked it up. It has Competion Eng. adjustable shocks set at 50/50 and Competion Eng. ladder bars vintage around 1993 that the guy before me had S&W race cars setup to get them to hook correctly. I remember he said the Pass. rear is massaged slightly for a little extra clearance. Pretty basic but its working good. I run 28x15x12.5 ET streets, and get consistant 1.53-1.55 60ft. In the summer I'm running 11.55 at 117.83 at 3485 lbs.race weight. I forget to tell you before, that before the motor was assembled the entire reciprocating assembly from balancer to flexplate and bolts was sent out and balanced, I think that helped with any harmonics that might of otherwise made it's way up to the valvetrain. Just thinking about your project got me remembering how excited I was, it's going to make this winter fly by for you.
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
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I forget to tell you before, that before the motor was assembled the entire recipicating assembly from balancer to flexplate and bolts was sent out and balanced, I think that helped with any harmonics that might of otherwise made it's way up to the valvetrain.
man, that's some good info and some cheap insurance. nice headsup.

those times are fairly solid? i mean, if you had to dial in on that would you be able to reproduce? i'm fairly stoked here thinking about how this motor is going to perform once i get it together... 8)
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Old 08-17-2004, 11:46 AM   #14
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if you had to dial in on that would you be able to reproduce?
 Yea, the car is pretty consistant as long as" me" the driver keeps his end up, that is the hard part. That's part of the fun by challenging yourself to be focused but you know how it is.
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims69camaro
if you had to dial in on that would you be able to reproduce?
 Yea, the car is pretty consistant as long as" me" the driver keeps his end up, that is the hard part. That's part of the fun by challenging yourself to be focused but you know how it is.
i drove my dad's 79 camaro once my sister flaked out. it had all of the makings for a 10 second car, but i couldn't get down past 11 (which was better than she ever did with it). it was fun, probably the reason why i've always had the speed bug. it's also been a long time which is kind of why i am trying to ease back into it. so, yeah, i know about being focused... probably why it's taken me this long to get back into it.
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