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Old 08-20-2014, 08:17 AM   #1
Teds89IROC
 
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Car wants to die stopping abrupt or slowing down

LT1 and T56 swap into my IROC. The car starts fine and idles fine but I noticed when I'd be driving and come up to a stop I'd push in the clutch the rpms would drop to about 1000 like normal and then fall below and want to die. If I see the rpm's fall below and tap the gas it bumps back to 1000 and idles perfect. I have a fuel pressure gauge and that stays constant as well as my volts while it's trying to die.

I tried cleaning the IAC valve and no change so I bought a new one, did the reset process and no change. Then a few stops later it worked perfect, but has happened again. Is there a learning curve with the computer for this? Any other ideas?
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #2
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did you fully clean the throttle body?
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Old 08-20-2014, 08:50 AM   #3
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I used the parts washer on the intake manifold and valve covers when I swapped cams but I can't remember if I did the TB, I think it looked clean so I didn't bother.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:18 AM   #4
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What happens in neutral if the car is parked?
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:19 AM   #5
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I'd use data logging software or a scan tool and watch the IAC counts when the issue occurs. Stock throttle body?
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:36 AM   #6
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nuetral parked, it idles beautiful. Scan tool can't happen, I didn't get to wiring the diagnostic port yet lol. and yes, stock TB.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:52 AM   #7
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Just to confirm, if you have the trans in N, go under the hood, and blip the TB it comes back to normal with no issue?
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:01 AM   #8
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IDK the history of the car but was the PCM setup for an automatic and now its running a T56?
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Old 08-20-2014, 10:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT View Post
Just to confirm, if you have the trans in N, go under the hood, and blip the TB it comes back to normal with no issue?
yup, no issues. Only while driving if im at like say 2500 rpms and i push the clutch in and brake, sometimes the rpm dips below 1000, other times it didn't after changing the IAC.

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IDK the history of the car but was the PCM setup for an automatic and now its running a T56?
the PCM for the LT1 was orginally for a 6-speed car, and when I spoke to the tuner I gave all the details that it was still a T56 and being swapped into an 89 IROC.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:06 PM   #10
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I'd try just cleaning out the throttle body... might as well since you haven't done that. It sounds like there is gunk somewhere randomly getting stuck lol.
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Old 08-20-2014, 12:59 PM   #11
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Yea, I'll take it completely apart and clean it in the parts washer and see what happens. The fact that it doesn't always want to dip below 1k rpm coming to a stop and idles perfect just revving it in N makes me think its nothing too serious
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Old 08-20-2014, 01:36 PM   #12
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Sounds like a tuning issue, not the throttle body. For one try and get your obd plug wired. What is the actual spec on your car. Its a lt1 swap? Or an lt1 pcm? What year? Who did your tuning? Seems like is something with the vss in relation to the idle decay

Also, 1000 rpm idle is high. No massive vacuum leaks like the egr at the back of intake?
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadtrend1 View Post
Sounds like a tuning issue, not the throttle body. For one try and get your obd plug wired. What is the actual spec on your car. Its a lt1 swap? Or an lt1 pcm? What year? Who did your tuning? Seems like is something with the vss in relation to the idle decay

Also, 1000 rpm idle is high. No massive vacuum leaks like the egr at the back of intake?
95 LT1 with a cc306 and T56 swap. PCMforless did the tuning. I explained it was a 95 LT1 ECM with a T56 but in an 89 car with a mechanical speedometer.

could be 900, hard to tell on the gauge. No leaks I can hear or tell. If it was the tuning then why would it act normal occasionally?
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teds89IROC View Post
95 LT1 with a cc306 and T56 swap. PCMforless did the tuning. I explained it was a 95 LT1 ECM with a T56 but in an 89 car with a mechanical speedometer.

could be 900, hard to tell on the gauge. No leaks I can hear or tell. If it was the tuning then why would it act normal occasionally?
What does the coolant temperature look like?

Does the problem show up right when you first start driving or not until you've cruised around a while?
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Old 08-20-2014, 02:41 PM   #15
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It was tuned for a 160 t-stat, fans come on not much above that.

It happened the first block i turned onto last night after leaving the driveway. After a few minutes the next couple of turns and stops it acted normal, so I thought it was just a learning period for the new IAC. Got to my destination, pushed in the clutch at about 2500 rpm and they started to dip low like it was going to die but I couldnt tap the gas. It caught itself and rpms shot back to idle speed. On the way home the first stop i made it acted normal. A few minutes later approached a traffic light and it wanted to die.

EDIT: Unless the tune is to run in constant closed loop, bypassing a VSS, which from what I read I think it uses the 02 sensor reading. I'll clean the TB regardless and get in touch with the tuner to find out what was done regarding a VSS signal. I think I see a replacement VSS with a cable output as well for a mechanical speeodmeter which might be what I need
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:19 PM   #16
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PCMforless is telling me I need to drill a small hole in the TB blade 1/8"-1/4" and that it's a common problem. I'm trying to get more info from them.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:21 PM   #17
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Don't do that. For the love of god buy an aldl cable, download free software, and hook up your obd port! You could check your tps voltage but I doubt its an issue. Should be the blue wire. You want around .67 closed throttle and about 4.5 volts WOT.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:23 PM   #18
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Don't do that. For the love of god buy an aldl cable, download free software, and hook up your obd port!
This. 1000x this.

Datamaster might tell you right away what's wrong.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:39 PM   #19
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Leave drilling holes in TB for half ass perf shops and idiots.

If its not a stock TB you can make the IAC passage correct for an LT1 intake with some skill.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
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PCMforless is telling me I need to drill a small hole in the TB blade 1/8"-1/4" and that it's a common problem. I'm trying to get more info from them.
why do you have a big by large cam? that is an old carb trick which also was sometimes not really needed!
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:04 PM   #21
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From what I've read its been done by other 306 cam owners but its been described as a crutch. Unless it's an aftermarket TB where the IAC port is different than stock.

I already have an ALDL connector from my TPI tuning software. If I wire the pinouts on the 89 diagnostic port with the LT1 ECM I can still read the car with the same cable? I'm also using a macbook, will this be an issue and what is the free software?
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:41 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT View Post
This. 1000x this.

Datamaster might tell you right away what's wrong.
+2 to this
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:51 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teds89IROC View Post
From what I've read its been done by other 306 cam owners but its been described as a crutch. Unless it's an aftermarket TB where the IAC port is different than stock.

I already have an ALDL connector from my TPI tuning software. If I wire the pinouts on the 89 diagnostic port with the LT1 ECM I can still read the car with the same cable? I'm also using a macbook, will this be an issue and what is the free software?
I have a 238/246 cam in my car with no issues. I do not know about wiring the diagnostic port.
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Old 08-22-2014, 06:58 AM   #24
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Funny how LS1's have their blades drilled from the factory...
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Old 08-22-2014, 07:50 AM   #25
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Funny how lt1's don't....
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