Oil Pressure: Weights etc

[LTb1ow]

Right now I run 15w40 cause its cheap and I have it laying around from truck oil changes.

That being said, it basically pegs the gauge when cruising and its just wasting power/generating heat. I would like to try 5w40 but AFAIK, that will just affect cold start pressures right?

I would need to switch to a 5w30 area to see a lower pressure?

[redsoxsstink]

you are right

[WildBillyT]

Yes, you should see lower pressure.

I don't know enough about oil weight requirements to give any useful info but I think there's information out there that can help you figure out what to run based on bearing clearances and such.

[The_Bishop]

From what I know about oil, you want to stay away from large-weight-range stuff when you have a tough environment for it to live in. A turbo'd LT1 qualifies. I'd try 10-30. It'll be more 'shear stable' than a 5-30, the oil pressure difference on startup between 5 weight and 10 weight would be negligible.

What's your hot oil pressure? Pinning the gauge? If so, I'd definitely try a 30 weight.

[LTb1ow]

Hot idle is prob round 35-40psi, again too much, but it makes me feel fuzzy inside.

[Blackbirdws6]

Hot idle for mine with 5w40 is in the 35-40 range which I'm fine with.

[LTb1ow]

Do you have the same pressure while cruising? (you and I have similar clearances I think) [I have a HV pump though]

[Blackbirdws6]

While cruising, I am in the mid 40's or so when hot. I am 60-70 when cold but not pegging the gauge. Keep in mind my cruising RPM may be significantly different from yours.

[LTb1ow]

75mph is 2500rpm for me, 65mph is 2200rpm.

[Blackbirdws6]

I'm below all of that in 6th. 1800 is around 65, 2000 at about 80. Prob lower since my tach is off by a couple hundred RPM.

[LTb1ow]

Hmn ok, I will toss some 30wt in and see how she does.

Lil scurred

[sweetbmxrider]

You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.

Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

You should get a real gauge instead of trusting the factory stuff.

Originally Posted by WildBillyT

Wait, this is with the factory gauge? Yikes.

Its a lot of pressure, vs, no pressure, so wanna try for mid range pressure, vs, no pressure.

Synthetic blend?
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rote...-gal./20573564

So much fancy

[The_Bishop]

That should work, rotella is good stuff.

Also: High roller turbo build? Put a gauge on it!

[LTb1ow]

I have no where to place an oil gauge nor do I really want that hassle. Like I said gauge is a yes or no kinda indicator.

[sweetbmxrider]

A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

A manual gauge in the cowl would tell you a whole lot about how great your factory gauge isn't.

Its a potential option, but not directly related to this topic.

[sweetbmxrider]

But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

But it is. You are assuming you have too high oil pressure. You need to verify your cold and hot pressures with a gauge. You don't need a $300 gauge. A parts store mechanical gauge would be a viable option to verify your actual pressures. You are also chasing loss of power....you haven't even got the car to go down the track 100%. I'm all for doing things for longevity etc. I just don't want you to waste lots of time here when other things need more immediate attention.

Adam, aren't some of the factory gauges off by a large margin? Like 10+ psi?

[sweetbmxrider]

All of the gauges are significantly off. Everyone knows the fuel level gauge is a joke. M6 guys know the tachs are off. It is what it is. Stick a real gauge on there and see what it is actually doing.

[Blackbirdws6]

A basic mechanical gauge is a good idea. Can't identify if there is an issue without good information.

[LTb1ow]

I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.

If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.

[Blackbirdws6]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.

If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.

No recommendation of cheap, plastic line of course but I'm guessing Adam meant you don't need a big $$ electronic gauge with all the fancy things.

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by LTb1ow

I am very very apprehensive about a cheapo mechanical gauge, as its a plastic hose in an engine bay filled with things anxious to melt it and burn my car down.

If you think we can make a nice gauge under the cowl, and use SS braided to the port, I am all for it. And what makes you think I am chasing power? Just don't wanna use molasses if I don't have to.

You can run a full sweep electronic gauge or go with a mechanical gauge with braided hose (that's what I did). If its mechanical just make sure you bleed it.

Either way it will be better than stock.