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Old 01-25-2014, 08:48 AM   #1
redsoxsstink
 
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main cap girdle/support

i have a 2 bolt main block, i dont need a 4 bolt main for what i plan on doing and the deal i got on the 2 bolt was too good to pass up.

my dad suggested a main cap girdle, after reading up it seems to be more of a old school thing and something that isnt really popular anymore. im not sure if its because they are not effective or just the fact that a 4 bolt main is alot easier to be had now a days.

my question is, it it worth it for the added stability for the lower end, or am i just wasting money that could be put somewhere else? they are not terribly expensive and seems like a good investment

here is a link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/140853689134...witem=&vxp=mtr
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1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD

1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121

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Old 01-25-2014, 08:51 AM   #2
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Waste IMO. Just get a 4 bolt block if you are concerned.
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Old 01-25-2014, 09:30 AM   #3
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im not concerned about the integrity of my set up. they are cheap if it helps then why not? the reason i ask is there is hardly any info about them on the web, idk if its because they are a waste or the fact that 4 bolts are so easy to get people just dont need them. they seem to be fairly popular with ford guys and imports but not with SBCs. the only real info ive seen were old school hot rodders using them, the logical reason for this is because 4 bolts were more difficult to get back in the day.
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2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit
daily econobox and first car

1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD

1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121

03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge
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Old 01-25-2014, 11:54 AM   #4
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Cheap is all relative. Money spent on something that doesn't do anything is just wasted. Also, depending on the girdle, you could be looking at a new oil pan. Windage trays usually don't fit with girdles, either.
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Old 01-25-2014, 11:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redsoxsstink View Post
im not concerned about the integrity of my set up. they are cheap if it helps then why not? the reason i ask is there is hardly any info about them on the web, idk if its because they are a waste or the fact that 4 bolts are so easy to get people just dont need them. they seem to be fairly popular with ford guys and imports but not with SBCs. the only real info ive seen were old school hot rodders using them, the logical reason for this is because 4 bolts were more difficult to get back in the day.
I've seen many 4 bolt blocks sell for $75...
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Old 01-25-2014, 01:02 PM   #6
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They dont hurt to have but you need a new pan n crap
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:06 PM   #7
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How could you go wrong for less than $60.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:10 PM   #8
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got a new block assembled with new rotating assembly for $400. find me roller 350 unmolested that costs $75 bucks local that wont need to be shipped ill go buy it

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How could you go wrong for less than $60.
thats what im saying
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2002 Camaro Sunset Orange Mettalic, V6, 5spd, bilstein HD shocks and struts, eibach pro lowering kit, eibach f/r sway bars, lakewood PHB, UMI 2 point subframe connectors, energy suspensions poly master bushing kit
daily econobox and first car

1986 IROC-Z, T56, MGW shifter, Heads, Cam, Holley Stealth Ram 350, t-top, tubular LCA with relo brackets, adjustable PHB, belltech sway bars, ground control weight jacks, SLP mid length headers, 3in w/borla XR1, RIP 3 10 bolts, 12.7 @ 109 so far.. atleast its faster than stock SOLD

1971 Camaro LS3/T56/9in, cam only and still carbed, RIP 2 10 bolts, 11.62@121

03 Blazer 2 door - salt sponge

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Old 01-25-2014, 03:49 PM   #9
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Buy ARP studs and be done with it.
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Old 01-26-2014, 08:45 AM   #10
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You do realize that a 4 bolt main isn't totally 4 bolt main , the front and rear caps are 2 bolts , if your not running 500 hp at 9,000 rpm's I wouldn't worry about it , just put ARP studs in it and it won't move
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Old 01-26-2014, 01:50 PM   #11
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I'm not too bright with the engineering stuff but I don't see how it does anything? I understand what people think it will do, I don't see it doing it. What is the power goal of this motor? What is the max rpm? If the bottom end was assembled properly with parts that were checked to be within spec, I can't see it becoming an issue at the power/rpm I assume you will be seeing.
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:30 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider View Post
I'm not too bright with the engineering stuff but I don't see how it does anything? I understand what people think it will do, I don't see it doing it. What is the power goal of this motor? What is the max rpm? If the bottom end was assembled properly with parts that were checked to be within spec, I can't see it becoming an issue at the power/rpm I assume you will be seeing.
Agreed.
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Old 02-02-2014, 09:19 AM   #13
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Just FYI, if you stud it you should have the block align-honed.
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Old 02-02-2014, 11:44 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Featherburner View Post
How could you go wrong for less than $60.
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Originally Posted by redsoxsstink View Post
thats what im saying
Sorry if it wasn't painfully obvious but my response was sarcasm! I would go with ARP studs and have it align bored and honed and call it a day.
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Old 02-02-2014, 07:43 PM   #15
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Sorry if it wasn't painfully obvious but my response was sarcasm! I would go with ARP studs and have it align bored and honed and call it a day.
Agreed.

While this girdle is available, it is not something to bother with. If you had a 3.8 GN motor, then I would say go for the girdle, which actually helps keep the bottom end together at higher HP levels.
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