One last time before install: cam shaft

[WayFast84]

Well Ive been hearing things like My cam ir real small and what not, well I got the specs of my cam and here they are..
am lift valve lift
int
.2847
exh
.3027
int
.427
exh
.454

adv dur
260 int
272 exh

lobe ctrs
int 107
exh 117

lash hot
int
.000
exh
.000

.050 dur
204 int 216 exh

.050 dur
btc
(5)
abc
29
bbc
45
atc
(9)
adv timing
btc abc bbc atc

Is it even worth installing into my 305? Should I go to a local speed shop and spend the money for a new one and then return this to jegs with my nitrous?

I want a cam thats compatible with my stock valve springs but still gives me a BIG gain.

I also have a wiand action plus intake if that helps..


Matt

[r0nin89]

Get a 350. I was gonna do the whole 305 rare engine thing til I realised that for 4grand you can build a 450-500hp roots blown 350 for the same price as making a 305 300hp. Plus still get 13-15mpg.

[Pampered-Z]

How did you decide on that cam?

My opinion is that you’re only wasting your time. A cam with that duration/lift and LSA is not going to make any power down low, you'll need to spin the motor over 6500 RPMs to see any real power and the 305 with it's small bores and stock heads/valves are way too restricted to flow any air that high, plus without beefing up your valve train and bottom end your just asking for a catastrophic failure!

For a 305 you'd be better off with a cam with less duration that will give you more power and torque below 5500 RPMs so that it better matches the air the engine can move. Your might be better off installing a stock LT1 cam in the car or something like the 2030 comp cam. You won't make big power, but unless it's some specialty build your not going to with a 305. IF you plan to race and the C.I.s are not limited build a 350.

If you want to make big power you really need to go with a 350 motor which has all the advantages: Bigger bore, better flowing heads, larger intake and exhaust ports and valves so a 350 will yield far more HP and Torque then a 305 with the same mods and for the same price!

You can spend $2000 on a decent heads/cam/header package on a 305 engine and maybe make 325 HP, put those same parts on a 350 engine and you'll be closer to 400 HP!


My .02

[Tru2Chevy]

I don't see why you shouldn't stab that cam in. It is a relatively small cam (.427/.454, 204/216). A '96 LT1 cam specs out as (.447/.459, 205/207).

Should be fine with your mild 305. You won't see huge gains, but it will pick up a little bit of power, and you'll learn something in the process.

Now, you mentioned that you want this to work with your stock valve springs. I'm saying bad idea. Yea it's not a radical cam, but you have stock 22 year old springs on your motor with close to 100k miles on them. Installing a fresh cam and lifter set (you do have new lifters for it, right?) isn't the best thing for stock springs.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

Well then id need help, because I dont think Id have the knowledge to do valve springs, and really dont want to mess something like that up. What springs would be good for a little more mild cam?

edit,

Yes I have lifters

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

Well then id need help, because I dont think Id have the knowledge to do valve springs, and really dont want to mess something like that up. What springs would be good for a little more mild cam?

The ones that come with the cam kit that you could (should) have bought. Just check the cam manufacturer's web site and look up the cam that you have. Then check to see what springs they recommend. Valve springs aren't tough, but it's good to have a helping hand. I swapped mine before I installed my heads, so it was pretty simple.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

what would I have to do to swap it out? How much would a mechanic charge to do JUST that with the valve covers allready off?

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

what would I have to do to swap it out? How much would a mechanic charge to do JUST that with the valve covers allready off?

You would need a way to keep the valves from dropping into the cyl. as you swap the springs on each one (usually people get a fitting for their air compressor that screws into the spark plug socket, and the air pressure holds the valve up), and you would need a tool to compress the springs.

Not sure what a mechanic would charge, but why bother when you would be paying for a tow to his shop and back as well. That would cost more than the tools you need to do the swap.

- Justin

[WayFast84]

I dont feel comfortable with it, but ill look into it maybe Ill just get new heads instead lol

[project89]

wayfast if u have an aircomprssor u need abouta 40$ tool to chaneg the springs urself,i actually may have the right tool that i could lend u if u like.its simple u screw the fitting in to the plug hole,plug the air line on.the tool goes over the rocker studand u pull on it it compresses the valve spring.u just pull ou tthe locks and release the tool and the retainer/valve spring come off.to get it back on u place the new spring and reatiner over the valve stem.pull down on the handle till it compresses far enough for u to put the 2 locks back in and relase the handle

[WayFast84]

I think ill just get new heads, for the money for the air compressor, the springs and everything it would be worth it. vortecs here i come...

[Pampered-Z]

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

I don't see why you shouldn't stab that cam in. It is a relatively small cam (.427/.454, 204/216). A '96 LT1 cam specs out as (.447/.459, 205/207).

- Justin

I looked at the 260/270 duration and thought 6600 RPM?

[WayFast84]

so the cam is up to high in the rpm's? If I did get another cam, do you think I should chance it on the stock valve springs? i really dont want to buy more parts for her but I guess I could buy another cam cause their pretty in expensive and Ill just return mine with nitrous.

[bad64chevelle]

I wouldnt chance anything on those springs. keeping stock springs is a really bad idea. If you stick a cam in there change the springs, its added insurance. I am another vote for ditching the 305 and getting a cheap 350 go work on. My dad has a 305 in his 35 chevy pickup thats got a small cam, a little head work, headers, 4barrel, aluminum intake manifold, and a few other things and it moves okay, but only because the truck weighs most likely only about 2700 lbs. I would hate for you to spend all this time and money on a similar problem and switching over to a 350 later on down the road. My best advice for you is to keep this 305 the way it is, drive it, save up money for a decent engine/trans down the road and you will have saved money, and learned alot more in the long run.

[project89]

Originally Posted by bad64chevelle

I wouldnt chance anything on those springs. keeping stock springs is a really bad idea. If you stick a cam in there change the springs, its added insurance. I am another vote for ditching the 305 and getting a cheap 350 go work on. My dad has a 305 in his 35 chevy pickup thats got a small cam, a little head work, headers, 4barrel, aluminum intake manifold, and a few other things and it moves okay, but only because the truck weighs most likely only about 2700 lbs. I would hate for you to spend all this time and money on a similar problem and switching over to a 350 later on down the road. My best advice for you is to keep this 305 the way it is, drive it, save up money for a decent engine/trans down the road and you will have saved money, and learned alot more in the long run.

everyone ha sbeen telling him this for the longest time lol.if he wanted i could get him a running 350 for about 200$'s

[WayFast84]

Originally Posted by lethalrides2k3

everyone ha sbeen telling him this for the longest time lol.if he wanted i could get him a running 350 for about 200$'s

BAM!!! where at!?

[WayFast84]

Where can I pick up information on how to get matched parts ? or how to match parts?

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

Where can I pick up information on how to get matched parts ? or how to match parts?

That just comes with experience. Unless you buy a package deal that the manufacturer sells together, you will have to match up your parts yourself. While you are learning, you should ask around here before purchasing anything.

- Justin

[project89]

matt my suggestion for u at this time is to get a 350 shortblock,and save up for a holley systemmax setup,or an eldelbrock package,both are very good and come with all the matched parts and are pretty cheap, u ouwld pay more then if u pieced it together urself,but all the parts are matched to work togther.
also trickflow makes some nice sbc topend kits ranging from 300-500 hp from 1,200-1,700 $'s

[WayFast84]

well on chevy high perforamnce they have top y hot engine combos, they have a 355 making 409 hp with vortec heads and a cam. now I want that set up but it gives different options on parts and stuff.

[project89]

matt u need to stop reading all those dam magazines,some of them are good,alot just spew out bs.for somone with ur knowledge level buying a complete kit is best for right now until u learn more,its cheap it works the way its supposed to there arent any problems.think for a sec 1,700 for 500 hp gets u brand new heads,cam/lifters/rockers/manifold,wereas u would have to buy a set of vortecs get them machined etc,buy new springs pushrods rockers and all the rest of that ****,ur still down to matching parts

[Tsar]

magazines

[Pampered-Z]

Originally Posted by WayFast84

Where can I pick up information on how to get matched parts ? or how to match parts?

Matt, you've just asked what I think is the most complicated questions about probably the most misunderstood part of an engine.

Good questions, should have asked last night it would have taken up the entire dinner conversation! There is far too much information to put into this message.

What I would strongly suggest you do is to stop trying to mod your engine right now, wait at least a few weeks until you have properly research this. It took me almost of month of compairing cams before I narrowed it down to 4, then two, eventually I had a custom grind made based on what I thought was best for me, and after many phone calls to engine builders and Cam manufactors. Cam selection IS THAT IMPORTANT!

I would also strongly suggest your first step is to buy a book about building small block Chevy engines, One of my favorite books is about Cams and Valve trains by Graham Hanen. It’s under $20 and contains information you’ll be able to reference the rest of your life!

Originally Posted by WayFast84

well on Chevy high performance they have top y hot engine combos, they have a 355 making 409 hp with vortec heads and a cam. now I want that set up but it gives different options on parts and stuff.

As others have already stated, magazines are good to look at, but their articles are for the most part to sell advertiser’s products. You are not going to get all the information you need. Plus, that 355 is completely difference they your 305. Again, first read the book I suggested above, once you understand a cam shaft’s profile = lobe design, lift, duration and separation and engine/head flow characteristics then you’ll be able to better understand what it is you need to be looking for.

I’m not trying to blow~off your question, but until you can better understand all the pieces that interact in the valve train all of our suggestions are not going to either help you or make any sense.

Next dinner we’re at I’ll be more then happy to discuss cam profile and valve trains with you. But I’ll wear out my fingers typing before I get you the info you really need.

John B.

[WayFast84]

allright. But Ill still look for a 350 now. when it comes to smogger motors what is the most restrictive thing on the engine. the one thats holding all the hp back

[project89]

a smogger motor is a smoog motor/some have decent heads but intakes/cams/low cr hurt them