carb swap!

[maroman88]

this is exactly what i have, and there is a place on the cap for wat looks like 2 plugs....

[maroman88]

i think i got it figured out.... the plug with 4 wires was for the ESC, which i dont need and the other plug with 2 wires is for the batt and tach terminal on the new cap

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by maroman88

i think i got it figured out.... the plug with 4 wires was for the ESC, which i dont need and the other plug with 2 wires is for the batt and tach terminal on the new cap

Yea, that sounds right. Let me know if you still need a pic of mine, I forgot today, but can take it tomorrow morning if you still need it.

- Justin

[bubba428]

Originally Posted by maroman88

this is exactly what i have, and there is a place on the cap for wat looks like 2 plugs....

its 3 plugs actually, a single wire tach (brown), battery(white), and a 3 wire harness(black) from the dizzy itself...that may or may not have an extra harness for the computer coming from the dizzy. I have a 2 harness here that I can't use, if you want it its yours.

O and BIG tip on dizzy install make god dame sure that your at TDC with the #1 cylinder or when you go to start it that nice shiny new carb is going to have the power valve blown to hell

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by bubba428

O and BIG tip on dizzy install make god dame sure that your at TDC with the #1 cylinder or when you go to start it that nice shiny new carb is going to have the power valve blown to hell

...unless it's got a power valve blowout protector.

- Justin

[maroman88]

hmm wats a good ignition keyed 12volt source near the electric choke? for the electric choke lol

[maroman88]

k i found a keyed power source..... someone care to explain how this electric choke works? i wired it how it says on the directions but it just gets really hot....

also.... the fuel pump primes and has about 6-7psi after the regulator but after it stops priming it drops to 0 and the car wont start, just cranks. i was reading about wiring a keyed 12volt wire to the gray wire going into the relay to keep the pump on? if that makes sense

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by maroman88

k i found a keyed power source..... someone care to explain how this electric choke works? i wired it how it says on the directions but it just gets really hot....

also.... the fuel pump primes and has about 6-7psi after the regulator but after it stops priming it drops to 0 and the car wont start, just cranks. i was reading about wiring a keyed 12volt wire to the gray wire going into the relay to keep the pump on? if that makes sense

AFAIK the choke should just get IGN hot. Huh.

On running, the fuel pump relay circuit is completed by the oil pressure switch. Is that still hooked up?

[maroman88]

for the choke it says "Red Wire: To ignition key activated 12v source (not coil or alternator)"

oil presure switch is just above the oil filter? and yes thats plugged in

[maroman88]

it seems the reman dist i bought blows! i cant get spark most of the time, ive gotten the car started a few times and then i loose spark, ive taken the whole thing apart, checked the ignition module on my tester, greased all the conections and put it back together..... still nada, a lil spark here and there, leads me to believe a bad coil.... due to either a little or no spark, watta u think??

[Tru2Chevy]

Sounds like it's time to swap the distributor for another....

- Justin

[maroman88]

okay well still no start with another dist. im at a loss.... i got it started twice last week for a short time, but now nada. im guna pick up another battery at some point, im sure the current one isnt in the best shape after all this cranking and charging, maybe play with the dist placement..

[sweetbmxrider]

you have spark and fuel pressure? and you installed the distributor at top dead center?

[maroman88]

k, reset the distributor in the right position... adjusted the fuel pressure to 5psi, cleaned all the spark plugs....

now when cranking nothing. if u floor it and crank it gas shoots up and sometimes fire! out of the carb.... somethings not right lol

[Tru2Chevy]

Are you 100% sure that the distributor is in correctly? Anytime it's backfiring out of the carb you have to consider that the distributor is 180* out....

- Justin

[maroman88]

hmm duno how to tell that? i used the finger over the #1 plug hole while cranking it and set the rotor accordingly

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by maroman88

hmm duno how to tell that? i used the finger over the #1 plug hole while cranking it and set the rotor accordingly

...and the timing pointer is at or near 0*...

[maroman88]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

...and the timing pointer is at or near 0*...

ur speaking spanish... lol

[Tru2Chevy]

Originally Posted by maroman88

ur speaking spanish... lol

Do you have a timing pointer on the front of the engine?

Like this:



- Justin

[maroman88]

why yes i do have a similar looking item covered in rust on my engine

[Tru2Chevy]

Use that to verify that you're at 0*....the balancer should either have numbers marked out on it like the picture above, or a notch where 0 is.

- Justin

[maroman88]

yea ok i think its got a notch... the timing tab is different tho, its rusted over so theres no markings but its got a cylinder shaped thing on it..... ill try n get a pic tomarrow

[maroman88]

ok so i swung the dist around wat looked liek 180*, it actually tried to start! bumped the dist one more spot forward and now itll start if u keep the pedal to the floor while cranking, and will idle very rough and blow out allll kinds of smoke if u keep on the gas a little, but once released it stalls

[bubba428]

not enough advance/retard....does it back fire and or pop from the carb? or does it stumble

[Tru2Chevy]

Yea, sounds like you have the distributor in correctly now, just needs to be timed.

- Justin