Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Calendar
Go Back   NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > General Tech

Notices


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 05-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #1
V
Stalker
 
V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
iTrader: (12)
jeep tire/steering issue...

Since this site also could almost be called NJ jeep owner association... I have a Jeep question...

Vehicle is a 2001 Cherokee sport, (4dr, auto, 4wd etc).. My friend complains of a clicking/popping/grinding sound coming from the drivers side tire area when making left turns. We also just had to change his drivers front tire to the Spare due to major uneven tire wear. ONLY the drivers side tire had wear on the outer edge down to the metal cords. All other tires show normal wear. I'm thinking bad hub assembly. Any other possible causes? He doesn't have much money so can't afford throwing a ton of parts at it. Even taking it to a shop and paying a diagnostic fee, then parts and labor would be really pushing it. I would swap the hub myself for him if I feel very confident that it is the cause. He did say the tire wear got worse as the noise got worse, and tires all wore fine prior to noise. Oh, and also best place to get bearing and brand?
V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2012, 01:18 PM   #2
greenformula92
 
greenformula92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
iTrader: (1)
Sounds like either a bad wheel hub or ball joints. I would get it from rock auto. As far as brands I can't really comment on that
__________________
Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO

2018 Silverado 1500
greenformula92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2012, 02:41 PM   #3
V
Stalker
 
V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
iTrader: (12)
rock auto had a decent selection, so decent that it confused me lol. I have no idea which one i need or should get.
V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2012, 07:48 AM   #4
greenformula92
 
greenformula92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
iTrader: (1)
as far as wheel bearings I have always had luck with Moog or Timken stuff. Ball joints I try to stick with a wheel known brand, so if there a Delco or Moog or anything like that I would use them
__________________
Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO

2018 Silverado 1500
greenformula92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 03:28 PM   #5
Savage_Messiah
2007 Member of the Year
 
Savage_Messiah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Seabrook, TX
Posts: 14,281
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenformula92 View Post
as far as wheel bearings I have always had luck with Moog or Timken stuff. Ball joints I try to stick with a wheel known brand, so if there a Delco or Moog or anything like that I would use them
__________________
WF=DF

Kommandant
of the ACL (Anti Canadian League)

Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
Junk the pos, spend the money on beer, acquire headache.

Same result cept this headache doesnt last months.
Savage_Messiah is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 05:12 PM   #6
B4C
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jim Thorpe PA
Posts: 2,132
iTrader: (1)
For wheel bearings use timken. I would check the u-joint on the axle shaft as well as they will click and bind when they go bad. For the tire wear its probably the hub bearing or ball joints, I would also get it aligned after.

Last edited by B4C; 05-13-2012 at 05:13 PM.
B4C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 05:23 PM   #7
V
Stalker
 
V's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
iTrader: (12)
i looked at the u joint at the wheel and nothing jumped out at me as being odd or faulty with it. Im sure if i pull the wheel and look at it again, now that i know where to look, i bet ill be able to notice hub failure.
V is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 05:50 PM   #8
B4C
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jim Thorpe PA
Posts: 2,132
iTrader: (1)
with the truck on the ground just have someone push on it in park and watch the joint to see if there is play in it.
B4C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 08:52 PM   #9
The_Bishop
Power Member
 
The_Bishop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 1,632
iTrader: (3)
More than likely a bad hub, although the ball joints could be at fault, too.

A bad hub is easy - Jack up the axle on that side, try wiggling the wheel at the top and bottom. If there's any play, watch the backside as you do it to determine if it's the hub or ball joints.

Getting the hubs out is sometimes a bit problematic, as they lock in with rust. Using a hub puller on the hub surface won't help, as it'll just pull the hub apart at the bearings.

What I found works is to turn out the hub bolts on the backside 1-2 turns, put a sacrificial socket on then one at a time, and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer. Walk around all three, and the hub should start coming out.
__________________
1998 Z-28 - SLP lid - Ported TB - LS6 Intake - Dynatech SS headers/Catted Y - Magnaflow Exh - 3.42 - Yank SS3600 - UMI weld-in subframe connectors, Adj LCA, Adj PHB, Q1A TA - Bolt-in Relocation Brackets - Strano springs - Koni shocks - 17" C6Z06 wheels - 326HP/335ft-lbs - 12.35 @ 110.41

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbirdws6 View Post
I can appreciate a dream but this person needed some real friends.
The_Bishop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-13-2012, 11:07 PM   #10
greenformula92
 
greenformula92's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 1,868
iTrader: (1)
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Bishop View Post
More than likely a bad hub, although the ball joints could be at fault, too.

A bad hub is easy - Jack up the axle on that side, try wiggling the wheel at the top and bottom. If there's any play, watch the backside as you do it to determine if it's the hub or ball joints.

Getting the hubs out is sometimes a bit problematic, as they lock in with rust. Using a hub puller on the hub surface won't help, as it'll just pull the hub apart at the bearings.

What I found works is to turn out the hub bolts on the backside 1-2 turns, put a sacrificial socket on then one at a time, and give it a couple of whacks with a hammer. Walk around all three, and the hub should start coming out.
That or a ton of heat and a lot of PB Blaster. either way it can be a huge PITA
__________________
Formerly known as blk95formula
86t/a_ram_air on TGO

2018 Silverado 1500
greenformula92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2012, 07:47 PM   #11
Tru2Chevy
Co-Founder / Site Admin
 
Tru2Chevy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ewing, NJ
Posts: 22,473
iTrader: (8)
Social Networks:

I think I may have shown this to you in chat Paul, but if not:

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unit...tbearing-1.htm

Easy method to get the unit bearing out on a Jeep Dana 30 front axle.

- Justin
__________________
1999 Camry - Beigemobile DD
2002 Suburban - Wife's DD
2004 Grand Cherokee - Not running / Project / Selling?

Tru2Chevy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2012, 08:01 PM   #12
transmaro93
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: manchester, NJ
Posts: 1,775
iTrader: (2)
sounds most to me like it is the u joint on the axle... could be bearing though.. bearings are super easyto change... just did mine replaced with timkens... they are fine so far. being its only making noise on turns it sounds like the ujoints are binding up..
__________________
97 Firebird Formula - 383LT1
15 Subaru WRX - 2.0L-turbo
transmaro93 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

  NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds > Tech Forums > General Tech


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

» Sponsor List














All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.