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Old 05-10-2019, 07:24 PM   #51
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One of my co-workers just purchased a blueprint 427 long block and it is bad ass. Hes running the fast ez efi with it too. Think he paid $8000 for the long block. Why the nitrous? Why not just stay n/a?
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Old 05-11-2019, 06:13 AM   #52
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One of my co-workers just purchased a blueprint 427 long block and it is bad ass. Hes running the fast ez efi with it too. Think he paid $8000 for the long block. Why the nitrous? Why not just stay n/a?

nice!! I looked (online) at a bunch of info on the FAST EZ-EFI stuff too. that was my second option behind the sniper, with then the FiTech stuff as a 3rd place option. what kinda car does he have it in? i'm guessing its making about 550 when all assembled ?

I'm going to have the nitrous as a bonus for track use. I already have a 100-150 shot on the car now so the car is wired, plumbed, and everything for nitrous. I don't think it would make much sense for me to remove it? All i'll have to do is get some bigger jets, get a solenoid mounting plate/bracket for the sniper, and get an actual intake spray plate to sit below the sniper unit on the intake. If the current 340 lph pump and -8 feed line aren't capable of a 200-250 shot, then i'll just run a smaller shot and have fun with that. ... if ever needed I could add a small dedicated tank/pump/lines for the nitrous use, but that's PROBABLY ONLY if I am really chasing down a goal e.t. at the track. possibly. but as for now, since the car is setup for nitrous, my thought is that it make sense to keep it and run it occasionally with the new engine. with the current slug motor, I do use it a lot because the engine is weak; next engine wont be!


anyone else? I know I type a lot and its daunting to read, but i try to put as much info out there so people have a full-circle idea of my thoughts/gameplan

comments? criticisms? thoughts? major red flags?

-cheaper places to have the 6 point roll bar done? S&W racecars wants about $3,200 for a bar with swing-outs in chrome-moly tube
-ideas for radiator and water pump?
-thoughts on headers and exhaust?
-torque converter upgrade from the edge racing 2,800 rpm?
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:04 AM   #53
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He put it in his 85 z28. The torque is crazy. I looked at efi setups for my wifes 86 trans am and the Holley sniper was my first choice as well. She also wanted to swap the 700r for a t56. Once I priced it all out it made more sense to just LS swap it.
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:27 AM   #54
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I have had good success with FTI, and Circle D converters.
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Old 09-08-2019, 08:07 AM   #55
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I am about 2 months away from ordering the engine. I have the full amount of $ saved and ready in my bank account. I also have the $ saved for the 6 point roll-bar install at S&W racecars. I still need to earn a few thousand dollars more to save for what I have been calling "the extras", which include a new torque converter, radiator, battery relocation box, wiring, and on/off switch, power steering box rebuild, engine bay makeover and paint, and maybe a set of drag slicks to mount onto my 16" iroc wheels. I am thinking somewhere about $3,500 for that stuff.


in the next few weeks I might start asking for input on what questions I should make sure I mention to the engine building company. cam specs, gap rings for a 200-250 wet shot, engine weight, stuff like that. I have never been down this road before, and since I am spending some big $ here, I want to make sure I ask all the right questions to people that are knowledgeable and then i can have a near perfect gameplan.
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Old 09-08-2019, 10:40 AM   #56
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My big recommendation is to spend the extra money to have the engine run on a dyno as close to the configuration as you plan to run it in the car. This will ensure you get it broken in properly and prove the combination is doing what is intended. It will give you some piece of mind to know the engine is sound so if you have issues when installed in the car, it's likely something on your end isn't right.

When selecting the final engine spec, think far down the road how you will plan to use the engine. Do you want something to provide max power or sacrifice a little top end to gain more mid range. Ask for the complete build sheet including part numbers should you need to replace anything down the road. Ask what plugs should be run for different conditions or if not wanting to make it complicated, ask what plug and gap should be used to handle both NA and nitrous.

Ask if after the engine is broken in, do you need to check over head bolt/stud torque, etc or not needed.

Ask what oil they recommend for break in and after break in use.
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:04 PM   #57
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Don't compromise the motor for the 10-20% time you are going to be racing it, make sure it will always be ready to go for DD duty.
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Old 09-09-2019, 07:00 AM   #58
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Who is going to be building the engine for you?
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and once i get PHB, what do i ajust it too?
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Old 09-10-2019, 11:32 AM   #59
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Awesome. Thanks fellas!! I had thought of a few of those things,
But you brought up a few things I hadn’t thought about. Thank you

When I sent a few emails last year they assured me that it would be a perfect street motor that after some initial tuning/self learning time.. would be very reliable on the street and able to be hammered on at the track as well. I totally agree that it should be a street engine first and foremost, like you said, not compromising street driveability to gain a few more top end horsepower. I will ask them for the full detailed parts list, numbers, plugs, oil, recommendations for water pump, and torque specs. I probably won’t even hook up the nitrous for a few months of so since it will be a big jump up to the +500 horsepower/torque ball game. I want to make sure the car and powertrain is happy before drilling a 200 shot and trying to run a low number. I still want to autocross this car too which is why I didn’t want turbo or blower configuration. Mid range horsepower would be optimal. Street car.

Nyes performance engines will be building the engine . Top to bottom. I spend a lot of time over the past few years reading and reaching out to people who have their engines and I can only find one bad review on them (by some dumb dirt track racer bozo) on yellowbullt.com and when he complained, the yellowbullet people ate him alive and had nothing but good things to say about nyes engines. I am NOT using the eagle crank and rods but instead paying the extra $500 for the Callie’s crank and rods. I will also pay the extra $100 for the arp 2000 level bolts.

http://nyesautomotive.net/site/mobil..._EFI.html#2619


I ha e more correspondence but here are two of Their shorter emails to me:
“Hello Dave
I think the 406 would be a great combo for your car with the Holley Sniper system, we can get the cam correct for cruising and racing, as for the wet nitrous it will work but you will need a seperate fuel pressure regulator for the nitrous system. The fuel pump in the tank is a great idea and makes for a clean install. Let me know what your zip code is and i will get you a total price with freight.
Thank you
Pat”

And

“Hello Dave
We use the Sniper system and it works well on this engine, we would open up the ring gap a bit for the 150-200 shot and should not need to do anything else different, we do use ARP head bolts on this engine. As for savings for lack of a fuel pump we can deduct $200.00 if we don't send a pump.

Thank you, if you have any other questions please let me know
Pat”




So


I plan on keeping my current exhaust setup for a bit while I get the car sorted out. It is DynoDon’s 1 3/4Inch mid length headers to a 3” holley cat back, and a 3” electric cutout with aero chamber muffler. After talking to a bunch of drag racers in the pits at events and knowledgeable people online, it’s probably the very lowest I should have with the engine, but will work. It would be about $2000 or more for a set of 2” headers and a 4” magnaflow exhaust with muffler. I won’t have that in the budget. My Dyno dons headers should bolt right up to the dart pro1 heads.

I’ll have to figure out bracketed for the trans Tv cable, reroute the -8 and -6 fuel
Lines, redo all the front accessories and brackets, too. My mini starter and alternator should work just fine. Air filter and assembly will also have to be figured out. Maybe a drop-base style ? Remember I’ll gain about 3/4” in engine height when that nitrous plate does go on.
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Old 09-10-2019, 02:25 PM   #60
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I know its not apples to apples, but I trap 139 area with a 3 inch downpipe to a cutout mid car.

Run it with what you have ad it picks up a ton with cutout open, maybe look into replacing parts but don't go replacing stuff that may work.
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Old 09-10-2019, 03:38 PM   #61
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I would think a whipple or whatever flavor you like would be awesome for auto x?
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Old 09-12-2019, 08:43 AM   #62
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I know its not apples to apples, but I trap 139 area with a 3 inch downpipe to a cutout mid car.

Run it with what you have ad it picks up a ton with cutout open, maybe look into replacing parts but don't go replacing stuff that may work.

yup, thanks Matt. that's the plan for at least the 2020 season. Run it with the exhaust as it is. good to hear you are doing good with your 3" setup and the car runs a stout speed and quarter mile. many other racers I've chatted with agree that I shouldn't be bottle-necking the engine too much, especially N/A...and leaving the electric cutout open too.


adam. I had briefly considered that. it would change the whole configuration of the engine (no holley sniper) and I would probably have to run an intercooler. was hoping to avoid excess intake pipes winding all over the engine bay (for cosmetics and work access). also, since the ultimate hp/tq goal for the car was low-mid 700's, that blower/engine setup would be always setup/tuned for that amount of power on the street. dare I say it,...but that might be too much for me on the street with this car. with the nitrous setup, I can run about 500+ hp on the street n/a and then grab the other 200 hp at the track when I turn on the bottle. but a whipple style blower would be way more of a reality compared to a centrifugal blower in my list of possible choices. thanks

I chatted with some of our crew yesterday at atco too and also had a short chat with the guys at the Holley booth about the sniper unit. either the sniper (600 hp) or super sniper(650 hp) will be what I wind up getting. I discussed computer tuning stuff with polar bear yesterday too and most of that stuff is currently wayyyy over my head. I'd like to learn it for sure, but I'll start from the beginning with the simple had-held display/programmer that comes with the sniper. eventually, possibly I can learn enough to step up to a lap-top.
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Old 09-12-2019, 11:35 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IROCZman15 View Post
yup, thanks Matt. that's the plan for at least the 2020 season. Run it with the exhaust as it is. good to hear you are doing good with your 3" setup and the car runs a stout speed and quarter mile. many other racers I've chatted with agree that I shouldn't be bottle-necking the engine too much, especially N/A...and leaving the electric cutout open too.


adam. I had briefly considered that. it would change the whole configuration of the engine (no holley sniper) and I would probably have to run an intercooler. was hoping to avoid excess intake pipes winding all over the engine bay (for cosmetics and work access). also, since the ultimate hp/tq goal for the car was low-mid 700's, that blower/engine setup would be always setup/tuned for that amount of power on the street. dare I say it,...but that might be too much for me on the street with this car. with the nitrous setup, I can run about 500+ hp on the street n/a and then grab the other 200 hp at the track when I turn on the bottle. but a whipple style blower would be way more of a reality compared to a centrifugal blower in my list of possible choices. thanks

I chatted with some of our crew yesterday at atco too and also had a short chat with the guys at the Holley booth about the sniper unit. either the sniper (600 hp) or super sniper(650 hp) will be what I wind up getting. I discussed computer tuning stuff with polar bear yesterday too and most of that stuff is currently wayyyy over my head. I'd like to learn it for sure, but I'll start from the beginning with the simple had-held display/programmer that comes with the sniper. eventually, possibly I can learn enough to step up to a lap-top.
Not swaying you towards a blower but a PD one (like a whipple) would typically have a watercooled system and not a traditional intercooler (a to a).
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:53 PM   #64
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Go big or go home

or here

or here.
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Old 09-14-2019, 06:53 AM   #65
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a Nelson engine with mirror image turbos would cost more than every vehicle I own combined !!
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