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10-30-2015, 10:45 AM
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#26
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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Reluctor wheel is super tight, just changed both sensors again.... now it cranks for 2 seconds then stops, cranks for 2 seconds then stops cranking by itself. more black magic... whos close to Oakland?
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10-30-2015, 11:02 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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fixed... time for Amstel Light
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10-30-2015, 11:05 AM
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#28
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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What was it?
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10-30-2015, 12:26 PM
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#29
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnj
fixed... time for Amstel Light
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
What was it?
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Ya, do tell!
Glad you found it though 
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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10-30-2015, 04:31 PM
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#30
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: west orange nj
Posts: 2,415
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he traded it in for a dodge diesel
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10-30-2015, 05:52 PM
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#31
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisfrom nj
he traded it in for a dodge diesel
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Didn't know dodge made diesels.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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10-31-2015, 06:13 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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Hey guys, first thanks for the help and advice! I honestly thought is was electrical also. Turns out all 3 "new" crank position sensors were bad. I took the original old cam position sensor and put it where the crank sensor resides at the correct angle so it could pick up the reluctor wheel signals and BAM, fired right up. Id love to bash the manufacture but i wont. I remember this happening a few times before, new defective part. 20 years ago changing a 3rd gen camaro TPI fuel pump 2x before realizing I should bench check it before i drop the axle, tank and muffler....lol good times
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10-31-2015, 06:48 AM
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#33
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Nice! I hate new defective parts. They can really cause headaches.
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10-31-2015, 10:14 AM
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#34
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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It wasnt this brand....
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04-05-2017, 07:43 PM
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#35
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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ok guys, back at another nightmare. 2006 6.6 duramax 4500 series. 42k miles Auto. Alternator wont charge... New alternator, then new AC Delco alternator. 3 new Interstate batteries. New Bosch glow plug heater. Checked all fusible links. Have cleaned all junction blocks 2x. Swapped ECM and PCM from same identical trucks we have. Still no power being made from the ALT. Any help GREATLY appreciated... The truck has been parked since December. No lawns to cut in the winter, lol
Last edited by donnj; 04-05-2017 at 07:46 PM.
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04-06-2017, 06:28 AM
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#36
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Any voltage on the exciter wire while running? Ohm it out? Bench test alternators?
Last edited by sweetbmxrider; 04-06-2017 at 06:28 AM.
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04-06-2017, 07:24 AM
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#37
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Stalker
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,077
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I had a issue years ago with my 12v cummins. Ended up running a additional ground cable from one alt mounting bolt directly to the one battery. Solved my problem. And has been fine ever since. May not be your problem but figured id chime in.
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04-06-2017, 07:39 AM
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#38
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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yes, all 3 alternators are working, had them spinning with a imact
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04-06-2017, 07:40 AM
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#39
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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lost...
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04-06-2017, 07:41 AM
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#40
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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thanks Paul, it has to be something so small at this point, or not
Last edited by donnj; 04-06-2017 at 07:43 AM.
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04-06-2017, 08:08 AM
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#41
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,896
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So is there power made at the alternator when truck is idling?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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04-06-2017, 08:52 AM
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#42
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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so I'm not getting any power at the isolator module, the exciter wire. The truck is at 10 volts under full load upon startup. Jumping the exciter wire to 12v turns the alt on. Can I bypass the exciter wire on the module and connect the grey and red at the plug behind alt? Go old school...
Last edited by donnj; 04-06-2017 at 08:53 AM.
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04-07-2017, 03:30 PM
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#43
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 464
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NEED HELP.... ASAP anyone local to OAKLAND??? have $$$. Have narrowed it down something related to the DRL circuit. Fuse and relay are both good along with the E brake switch. any ideas? Could possible be the ignition switch?
Last edited by donnj; 04-07-2017 at 03:58 PM.
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04-07-2017, 07:50 PM
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#44
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Can you scan that in or make it larger? How did you narrow it down to drl circuit? What do you believe is the issue? I can't get medium duty wiring else I'd look into it further for you.
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