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Old 06-29-2015, 03:00 PM   #1
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In-car bottom end rebuild? LT-1

I'm considering buying a rare '97 Camaro SS 30th but the car has a knock. It's a factory wht/org, houndstooth with 50k miles...basically my dream car since I was a senior in HS that year. I'm wondering if anybody has ever done this? I'm thinking new crank, main & rod bearings? It's a 100%stock car. I'm thinking the 80yr old owner missed a shift or went 5th to 2nd instead of 4th? I'd rather not risk scratching up a mint original paint car so that's why I'm considering fixing it in the car if possible. Anyone have a suggestion where to get good, inexpensive kits? I'll be leaving the car stock and never plan on actually racing it, but I still would never undercut a crank. I've owned 2 LS1 Camaro SS's and 2 '96 Impala SS so this would be my 1st LT-1 Camaro SS.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:25 PM   #2
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Are you looking to build this yourself or have someone do it for you?
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Old 06-29-2015, 05:58 PM   #3
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Doesn't sound like a good idea.
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Old 06-29-2015, 06:49 PM   #4
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engine drops out the bottom. not a high chance of damaging the paint. if so, shouldn't be working on cars.
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Old 06-30-2015, 06:22 AM   #5
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The k-member is only a few bolts to take out of the car and drop the whole engine and trans assembly. Would be far easier to just pull it than to try to work under and around things.

As far as the engine kit, for something like that you are going to have to survey the damage first to see if it is just going to be a bearing, ring, and fresh gaskets job or if you are going to be in the market for some connecting rods or anything else.

Which ever it is, if you just want to go back stock I suggest checking out RockAuto. They have name brand stuff at fair prices and if you look in the sponsor forum there is a discount code.

If you want to build up the motor talk to Josh from JS PErformance--->>>>
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:36 AM   #6
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Whats wrong with cleaning up the crank with a .010 cut?

I would be willing to bet a decent chunk of change that a cut stock OEM crank is stronger than any cast aftermarket cheap crank you would stick back in.
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Old 06-30-2015, 07:50 AM   #7
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Owned by reading comprehension. Rebuild in the car is a bad idea as already stated. Take the engine out and do it properly.
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Old 06-30-2015, 02:47 PM   #8
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As stated, you have to tak out the K-member to get the oil pan, crank etc out, so you have to unbolt a buch of stuff up top as wellas support the engine. So you might as well drop the enging out the bottom and it will be much easier to work on and even less chance of damaging paint leaning over the car.

If you can get access to a post lift you can drop the engine in a few hours.
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Old 06-30-2015, 03:57 PM   #9
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If it has a knock there are metal shavings throughout the engine. Pull the engine and have the block cleaned. Pull all oil galley plugs and have the block Jetwashed/Hot tanked.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:56 PM   #10
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Trust me, after 25 project cars, I'm not an idiot...I'm already deep in a GN project so I was hoping to not fully disassemble another car haha. I didn't consider the shavings though, so you're right the engine needs to come apart. I'd rather not have another project car, but these cars are rare and I don't want to miss out on a "mechanical" project car. But I also don't want to drop $3500+ on a motor in a car I'm not looking to race. If I wasn't trying to keep the car "numbers matching", I'd buy an LT-1 for $500-1k and be done with it.
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Old 07-01-2015, 05:44 PM   #11
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Numbers matching it completely meaningless on new cars
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It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Old 07-01-2015, 09:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Numbers matching it completely meaningless on new cars
Original engine in a 30th SS will probably matter.

It's definitely not an lt4, right?
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:09 AM   #13
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Original engine in a 30th SS will probably matter.

It's definitely not an lt4, right?
If it had 49,500 less miles yeah.


Lt1 guys, does the numbering system on the lt1s even allow them to be traced to an original body?
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It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Last edited by Mike; 07-02-2015 at 07:10 AM.
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Old 07-02-2015, 07:14 AM   #14
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"yes"
http://shbox.com/1/block_vin.jpg

Does anyone care? No.

Regardless, what does taking the OE block out, cleaning it and the OEM crank, then slapping it all back together change?
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
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If it had 49,500 less miles yeah.


Lt1 guys, does the numbering system on the lt1s even allow them to be traced to an original body?


Maybe its important for him to keep the car all original. Just because its not a priority to you, doesnt mean its not for him. The fact that everyone thinks with your mindset is the exact reason why a 100% numbers matching 30th anniversary might be worth something in the future. Even if its not, who are you to tell him something is stupid when it obviously means something to him.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NastyEllEssWon View Post
Maybe its important for him to keep the car all original. Just because its not a priority to you, doesnt mean its not for him. The fact that everyone thinks with your mindset is the exact reason why a 100% numbers matching 30th anniversary might be worth something in the future. Even if its not, who are you to tell him something is stupid when it obviously means something to him.
I agree.

That said are there VINs, etc on LT1s like on older cars?
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:15 AM   #17
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Right now no one cares about numbers matching 4th gens, but no one cared about having a numbers matching 1970 Chevelle in 1980 either. At some point in the not too distant future it will be a value adder, especially as a 6spd car since there were far more automatics.
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Old 07-02-2015, 09:52 AM   #18
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VIN location on block is in my previous post.
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Old 07-02-2015, 10:41 AM   #19
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Why get a cheap rebuild kit if you are trying to keep it original?
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hi there, i just joined this forum and i must admit that i like it
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I know it's good to eat salads, but this is ridiculous.
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Old 07-02-2015, 01:05 PM   #20
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the desire to do the repair quick and dirty doesn't mesh with the desire to have a numbers matching car....

If the only concern is future value why not park it how it is rather than "getting it done so it's not another project". Then tackle it later
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It started before I drove your car. I just have to look at it the wrong way and your car poops parts.
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Old 07-02-2015, 06:49 PM   #21
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still means the motor needs to come out too
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:48 PM   #22
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anyone willing to do the job for $1500? Either fix the original (replacement used crank OK, new main and rod bearings) or if I have to buy a good complete engine for $1k and pay $500 labor to install. A 50k mile car shouldn't need other parts. If I'm going to have to pay $3500 for a new shortblock and then another $$$$ labor, I'll just buy another car.
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:01 PM   #23
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am I being ridiculous on a $1500 budget?
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:06 PM   #24
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Absolutely.
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