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Old 03-21-2014, 02:47 PM   #51
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Yeah the green/gold will look really good
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Old 03-25-2014, 04:19 PM   #52
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Just waiting for the cover of darkness to slip it into the street!
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:38 PM   #53
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It runs & drives! I need to re-bleed the brakes & find a permanent solution for my electric water pump. For the life of me I cannot remember how I had it set up before. Other then that I tied up some loose ends in the engine bay, re-routing wires & keeping things clear. Harbor Freight to the rescue!




The safety loop has to go though, it caught on my driveway last night and nearly gave me a heart attack thinking something broke on its initial test drive. The piece hangs lower then the transmission and thats a huge no go for me.
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Old 03-26-2014, 01:40 PM   #54
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It runs & drives! I need to re-bleed the brakes & find a permanent solution for my electric water pump. For the life of me I cannot remember how I had it set up before. Other then that I tied up some loose ends in the engine bay, re-routing wires & keeping things clear. Harbor Freight to the rescue!




The safety loop has to go though, it caught on my driveway last night and nearly gave me a heart attack thinking something broke on its initial test drive. The piece hangs lower then the transmission and thats a huge no go for me.
Is that the UMI one still?
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:41 PM   #55
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What are you trying to do with the electric waterpump? I can help you wire it up any fancy way you want. Can even make pretty mspaint pictures if need be
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:25 PM   #56
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what software are you using to edit those photos like that?
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:55 PM   #57
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Happy to hear it drives around Alex.

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What are you trying to do with the electric waterpump? I can help you wire it up any fancy way you want. Can even make pretty mspaint pictures if need be
Can you give him the buzzer or warning light option too?
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Old 03-26-2014, 04:47 PM   #58
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Can you give him the buzzer or warning light option too?
What do you mean? You can have an led that is powered and grounded by the feeds going to the waterpump? You could potentially wire something up with relays to light if the power or ground were not present too. You can't really do a buzzer for an overheat condition unless you did something with a coolant temp sensor. Your best bet there would be an led that lights off of high speed fan operation so it brings your attention to coolant temp. I think all of the above are excessive but I'm not much into the led light show at the moment
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Old 03-26-2014, 05:34 PM   #59
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What do you mean? You can have an led that is powered and grounded by the feeds going to the waterpump? You could potentially wire something up with relays to light if the power or ground were not present too. You can't really do a buzzer for an overheat condition unless you did something with a coolant temp sensor. Your best bet there would be an led that lights off of high speed fan operation so it brings your attention to coolant temp. I think all of the above are excessive but I'm not much into the led light show at the moment
I meant if the pump fails, a light comes on or some device makes noise.
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Old 03-26-2014, 06:25 PM   #60
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I meant if the pump fails, a light comes on or some device makes noise.
If you can find a sensor to watch the motor rotate or coolant moving, sure. Otherwise, I have no idea how you would accomplish that nor do I care to figure it out! I simply meant wiring the pump to run with key on and/or switched power/ground through an aftermarket or the stock air pump relay.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:41 PM   #61
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:44 PM   #62
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I meant if the pump fails, a light comes on or some device makes noise.
This is why im against electric pumps unless its a track only car..
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:52 PM   #63
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Kid is a little diode happy but LIKE I SAID, you can have an led that's powered and grounded by the pump's feeds. If its out, you know the pump isn't getting power or ground. You could split it up into 2 leds as well but that's kinda silly to me. Your diagram doesn't let you know if the pump fails, only if it isn't receiving power or ground. This is why I said if you can find a sensor that can watch or listen to the actual electric motor OR watch the coolant flow, you can know if the pump isn't operating. Otherwise, your coolant temp will slowly rise. Its really not hard to catch. This is also why I said leds on fan speed. If you see the led come on when high fans are on, you know the engine is running hot and watch yo ass.

Unless I suck at reading, that diagram isn't even correct.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:58 PM   #64
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I didn't make the diagram and posted it for discussion purposes.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:03 PM   #65
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Never under stood the point of LEDs or what not. Watch your damn dash cluster and be done. You will know fast if your water pump kicks the bucket.

Furthermore, I would bet a shot rotor or brushes would let current pass through stator enough to possibly always power a LED warning regardless if pump failed or not. LED just makes it so you know you have power, which to me, seems redundant.

You overheat, or you don't. Why add complexity.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:05 PM   #66
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I didn't say you did. I laid out the options for simple monitoring of the circuit. You can't monitor the actual electric motor's operation without some sort of sensor to watch it spin or monitor coolant flow. You could maybe do something like a crank position sensor and attach a reluctor wheel somewhere to monitor the rpm. The actual fins may work but I don't know how strong the magnetic field would be through coolant, I think its aluminum anyways, and you'd have to worry about sealing the sensor.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:08 PM   #67
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Never under stood the point of LEDs or what not. Watch your damn dash cluster and be done. You will know fast if your water pump kicks the bucket.

Furthermore, I would bet a shot rotor or brushes would let current pass through stator enough to possibly always power a LED warning regardless if pump failed or not. LED just makes it so you know you have power, which to me, seems redundant.

You overheat, or you don't. Why add complexity.
I thought you might be able to ohm the circuit through the motor but didn't think it would be completely fool proof like you are saying.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:16 PM   #68
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I didn't say you did. I laid out the options for simple monitoring of the circuit. You can't monitor the actual electric motor's operation without some sort of sensor to watch it spin or monitor coolant flow. You could maybe do something like a crank position sensor and attach a reluctor wheel somewhere to monitor the rpm. The actual fins may work but I don't know how strong the magnetic field would be through coolant, I think its aluminum anyways, and you'd have to worry about sealing the sensor.
Just throw a flow switch in the oil cooler bypass hose.
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Old 03-26-2014, 08:19 PM   #69
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You will know fast if your water pump kicks the bucket.
Or if its an ls1, the pcm goes in to limp home mode, therefore cutting almost all power. Then you let it cool down, plug the wire back in where it somehow fell out of, and good to go again. Been there done that. lol
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:05 PM   #70
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What are you trying to do with the electric waterpump? I can help you wire it up any fancy way you want. Can even make pretty mspaint pictures if need be
No need for anything fancy. I dug through some old photos, and found that it was originally installed just tucked under the Ignition fuse (Previous shops hack job), I was just trying to find a fuse to make the hot wire a permanent fixture. I bought this dual fuse gadget from my local pep boys that allows you to run a fuse with a wire coming out, but it wasn't getting power to the pump and then the ignition so I have to trouble shoot that.

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what software are you using to edit those photos like that?
These are all iPhone pictures hosted straight to photo bucket, quick and dirty. If your talking about the renders, I use Adobe Illustrator.

In other news I'm about to throw in the towel as this car is fighting my every inch of the way, finding missing bolts from important places, and questionable connections left and right. I have to go back to the West coast tomorrow so in the meantime, I'm probably going to sell my track bike and have it sent to Josh to tidy it up. What an F'n nightmare.

So far I've found:
- The driveshaft is rubbing the UMI Driveshaft Safety loop (Zero Ground Clearance)
- Missing a bolt where the torque arm meets the rear-end
- Missing all the bolts for the brackets that hold the front sway bar
- Brakes need to be re-bled
- Oil Pan sensor doesn't click in
- ABS Inop Light
- I need a sawzall to remove the Hooker exhaust
- Install my Magnaflow exhaust
- New brake pads & rotors
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Old 03-31-2014, 04:09 PM   #71
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No need for anything fancy. I dug through some old photos, and found that it was originally installed just tucked under the Ignition fuse (Previous shops hack job), I was just trying to find an alternate inline fuse to use so I can properly make the hot wire a permanent fixture mated to a fuse. I bought this gadget from my local store but it wasn't getting power to the pump so I have to trouble shoot that next time.
You can utilize the air pump relay and an unused fuse in the fuse box. I think I used the abs fuse but I don't know if you plan on keeping that. If its going to js performance, I'm sure they will do it the way they want. If you want me to guide you using the existing stuff, just let me know.
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Old 03-31-2014, 05:02 PM   #72
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if you give me a list of bolts and brackets you need, ill put them aside for you. I have to strip a 93 z28 and 98 z28 in the next month.
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Old 04-08-2014, 06:27 PM   #73
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if you give me a list of bolts and brackets you need, ill put them aside for you. I have to strip a 93 z28 and 98 z28 in the next month.
Hey Paul, I appreciate the help. I wish I had a complete list of everything missing but off the top of my head its still that bracket & bolts for the front sway bar, and the bolts connecting the torque arm to the rear-housing. Also I think I'm going to hit you up for the Spindles and brakes from that 98 Z28 if your not using them yourself.

I'm actually in the process of selling my 2008 Yamaha R6 out here in California and that will put me ahead and able to purchase and tie up the suspension up front. When I first bought that bike, it stole money from the Camaro, now things have sort of come full circle.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:31 PM   #74
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Full Ebony interior out of a 2002 Formula:

Corsa Clone Tips:


Some replacement ignition parts, wheels/tires and interior goodies are on order.

I have all the suspension pieces now and it should be getting bolted together this week. I ran through the fluids the other day and found water in the brake reservoir. Its either from sitting over the winter or theirs a leak in the master. I have a spare master if thats the issue after draining, and re-filling.

All I really need is a new battery and I might be able to get it moving in the next few weeks.
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Old 03-29-2015, 05:55 PM   #75
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Keep at it! Interior and tips will look nice.
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