350 pistons

[camaroAL]

Originally Posted by Shownomercy

Manley 2.00/1.56 6000 series valves
PAC 1218 bee hive springs (145 lbs seat and 340 lbs open)
Steel retainers and locks
205 cc intake port
flow about 275/190 CFM

from the #'s u supplied, if equipped with the correct cam, injectors, etc. etc... u have heads to make around 500hp N/A

[LTb1ow]

Yea, spinning it to what?

[camaroAL]

Originally Posted by Shownomercy

Yea, spinning it to what?

around 6700-6900

[LTb1ow]

Exxxaaacccttllyyy.


Street car, repeat, its a street car....

Would much rather have a torquey car than a car that makes a ton of power at 6700+ , its not an LS1


But back to pistons....

[LTb1ow]

Its NOT a drag car, so correct.

a) Build it so I can spray it safely
b) Build it so I can feel safe revving it to max 6500

[camaroAL]

Originally Posted by Shownomercy

Exxxaaacccttllyyy.


Street car, repeat, its a street car....

Would much rather have a torquey car than a car that makes a ton of power at 6700+ , its not an LS1


But back to pistons....

just cause peak power would be in the upper rpm's doesnt mean low end torque and street ability would be sacrificed at all! im just stating that it will make power to around 67-6900prms

[LTb1ow]

Originally Posted by camaroAL

just cause peak power would be in the upper rpm's doesnt mean low end torque and street ability would be sacrificed at all! im just stating that it will make power to around 67-6900prms

Ok well, if the cam could make a nice torque curve right up to that high, I guess I could see that being a possibility.

[camaroAL]

Originally Posted by Shownomercy

Ok well, if the cam could make a nice torque curve right up to that high, I guess I could see that being a possibility.

u seem to have quite a good cylinder head ,and a perfectly matched cam and spring set will broaden up ur torque curve and hp which will give u an excellent range of power.

[LTb1ow]

Well its a pretty solid valvetrain now, next step would be shaft mount, and I don't see that being practical.

My other concern with having to spin it that high is twofold, one, the stock computer/opti and two, hydraulic cam.

[camaroAL]

ive done one radical lt1 and i used an upgraded comp, and stock lifters, msd opti

[camaroAL]

as for the original post, either piston u mentioned will be a fine choice, preferably the JE

[LTb1ow]

Well as you pointed out that is prob one of the best piston choices, is there a more budget minded piston you would recommend?

[camaroAL]

i do like the sealed power ,power forged pistons (coated) cheap and relaible

[LTb1ow]

Able to spray em?

[camaroAL]

yes sir!

[LTb1ow]

Hmm, are you able to get a deal on em?

[camaroAL]

Originally Posted by Shownomercy

Hmm, are you able to get a deal on em?

ill find out asap. i should but dont want to promise.

[LTb1ow]

Understood.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

I have sprayed STOCK engines with 150 for years. So your goal is not clear. A goal would be a certain et or hp number. Getting there using nitrous is one of the stipulations. I can build an engine that will make the car go 12.0 on motor and 10.50 on a 150 shot or another that would go 11.80 on motor and 9.90 on the 150 huff. Your ultimate budget and personal requirements are what will be the most important factors in how the engine gets built..

[LTb1ow]

A goal can't be a nice, strong, dependable street motor?

[JSPERFORMANCE]

Nice and strong are two words that are opinion based. Define nice and strong.. The stock engine runs strong and looks nice.. See what I mean?

You need some kind of objective to properly choose the parts and build the engine.. Aluminum rods are nice and they hold up to 1000+hp but they may not be the right choice for your budget or how the engine would be used.. JE forged lightweight pistons are nice, expensive, and hold up to serious power. But if you are only making 4-450 then you wasted your money when a TRW could have done the job at half the cost..

The combo has to be matched to properly make power and stay within a budget. Like I told you before you need guidelines first of which is budget, second is type of use, and third is desired power level. If you have the first two set in stone that is all I would need to build the engine. I would give you the most power I can for xxx amount in a street motor that sees xxx kind of duty.. Get it?

[LTb1ow]

I see your point, I am just not really up to speed on what piston/rod combo will be ok for regular 150 shots.

[JSPERFORMANCE]

The amount of nitrous is not as important as the total amount of power the engine will be making.. Once a general idea of power and the use of the engine have been made then the rotating assembly can be chosen.. As far as the standard bore idea goes: what makes you sure the block will not need to be bored? Have you had the cylinder walls checked already?. There is a procedure to all of this and the block should be considered the "foundation" it must be solid before you can build the house on it.

[LTb1ow]

Although I am not 100% sure, I am almost positive the bores will be ok. The engine does not smoke and does not sip oil or antifreeze what so ever. When the heads were off last summer, the cross hatching was still very visible and the bores looked good. Granted a test could show they are way off but from what I saw combined with the engine having 70k on it, I think it should pass.

I realize that I may be approaching this kind of backwards, but I am hoping to not have any machine needed and worst case, it does not to be .030 over, the same logic applies to picking rods/pistons.

As for power levels, the combo I have makes 400 rwhp on M6 cars so between 400~420 crank. Being as that is a very hopeful number I am using it as the max number too in this. So figuring that at max the engine may see 450 hp NA, and tack on a 150 shot, that is my power level. Sorry if this is making no sense, I am just trying to do some research and get some numbers before the summer.

[JL8Jeff]

Are you still worried about passing inspection with the engine setup you're researching?