Removing AC lines

[Untamed]

When doing an engine swap, the air conditioning lines have to be disconnected, among other things. While the best thing to do is take the car into an AC place and have it professionally discharged and disconnected, my car doesn't currently run so towing it all over the place is a real pain.

Is there are safe way to simply disconnect the AC lines without having to take it into a shop? Might not be the most environmentally friendly, so I'm still weighing the options.

Thanks.

[Koll]

Bolt cutters should work efficetvly.

If not I got this thing where we could safely bleed the stuff out (and into the atmosphere) and then you can just disconnect it all.

[Untamed]

Originally Posted by Koll

Bolt cutters should work efficetvly.

If not I got this thing where we could safely bleed the stuff out (and into the atmosphere) and then you can just disconnect it all.

Thats what I'm looking for I guess, something that could safely release the pressure without popping off a ring seal and have the whole hose burst into my face.

Has anyone done this before? Getting closer to making arrangements for an engine and swap. Spring is almost here.

[Koll]

All you use is one of thoes recharge kits and just bleed it out rather than charge it.

[Untamed]

Yeah now that you've posted it, that seems like the most obvious answer. Checked online and found some recharge kits, with pressure lines, cans of refrigerant, and pressure indicators, for under $40. Just hook the line up to the AC unit, and slowly open the valve. Should work as long as the valve isn't opened all the way.

Thanks.

[HardcoreZ28]

Not environmentally friendly but you can just loosen the hose that goes into the dryer. That's what I did last time I pulled my engine. It only takes a few minutes for it to leak out...keep your hands away...it's cold!

[deadtrend1]

when was it last charged, and does it work? Unbolted the lines to the compressor on my buddys camaro and nothing came out ....

[ar0ck]

When I did my engine swap, the A/C was dead to begin with. It actually was alot easier to just unbolt the lines from the box, and just remove everything that was holding the lines down. Do it normal and it'll come out nice and easy for yah, and wont create a mess when your cleaning up the engine bay.

[Mike]

when i did my headers i just took it off and let it leak out......never recharged it so now im thinking of removing it completely

[Untamed]

According to the previous owner it blows cold. That was... 10 weeks ago. Not a long time. I suppose I should just reconnect the battery and find out, huh?

Simply loosening a hose and letting it leak out would be my first choice. I dont wanna tow that thing all over town.

Thanks guys. Trying to avoid a whole lot of coolant in my face. I kinda like my eyebrows the way they are now.

[9secfirebird]

there is a high pressure line and a low pressure line, just hold the schrader open with a long screw driver and stand back cuz its under a good amount of pressure. its just like letting air out of a tire. if you have R12, its def not good for the environment. some of the molecules in there eat O2 molecules, and they just keep eating and eating them, and ya know how they say aroesol is the cause of the hole in the ozone? this stuff will hurt it more than 15 aroesol cans will. if its R134A (retrofitted) the fitings on your thirdgen will look funny, like someone put one ontop of an older one. R134a is Much more environment safe than R12, thats why they phased R12 out. use the same process to release the 134A, though highly illegal, and ya really shouldnt do it this way, but you can release it into the air. on your 97 it has R134a in it, the thirdgens dont. however for the 85 or 90 to never have been charged thats pretty outstanding. by the way, once you change the engine if you want any hope of diecent AC, ya gotta change the dryer and haev the whole system Flushed and do your self a favor for the thirdgens, have it retrofitted to R134a from a shop that does AC, i think it costs 80-100 bucks for the whole deal, but dont quote me, everyones different. but a gallon of R12 is like REALLY REALLY expensive. 134a and 12 have different fittings. also dont forget to make sore all the PAG oil is out of the compressor and the lines and all that crap before ya put it back together. oh yeah, if its retrofitted and your not sure if the fittings you have on there are the retro 134 fittings, there should be a sticker on there,

[Untamed]

Thanks for the info Mike. Once the swap is done, the car can be driven so parking it at an AC place for a day or three for a retrofit and charge is much easier.