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Old 06-24-2006, 10:28 AM   #1
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Code 33 popping up

The code states MAF 9 (gm/sec HI). Now what does this mean? I just replaced the MAF sensore because it was cracked. Now It start fine off of cold start, i drive it about 10 min, and bam there it goes, it pops the code and then starts to run like ****. Can anyone help me with this.

305 TPI engine
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Old 06-24-2006, 12:11 PM   #2
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Did you recheck the sensor? This happened to me a long time ago, where I replaced the sensor and not even a cpl days later, i get the same code... so I took it back out and the 'dental-floss-lookin' wire in the housing was in half ...
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Old 06-24-2006, 02:49 PM   #3
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I checked the little "dental floss wires" looks ok to me, they arent broke. What is crap is that the dealership put in aremanufactured one, when i could have gotten a new one for lot less at advance LOL. Oh well. So what is next on the checklist??
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Old 06-25-2006, 09:20 AM   #4
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I replaced the relays for the MAF and burnoff. gave me the same problem not to after i put them in? So that leaves the wiring harness and the ECM am i right on this??
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Old 06-25-2006, 12:36 PM   #5
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quick update, i took out the ECM, looks brand new, no rust, no visible damage. Check the resistance on the wires to the MAF sensor and relays, all was good. One thing is that went i hit a bump, it somes to pop the code. So i let it cool for 5 min, then started it up, started and idled fine, until i tapped the MAF sensor and it almost made the car stall, but it didnt pop the code. this is so frustrating lol
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Old 06-25-2006, 12:46 PM   #6
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Maybe a short. Theres an article over on TGO on testing the sensor, and getting the correct amount of volts to it. When I find it ill post it up for ya
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:18 PM   #7
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Could still be a bad ECM. Pull the ECM down and start the car. While it's idling LIGHTLY twist the ECM and see if it kills the motor or makes it run rough. Sometimes a bad connection will only show up this way.
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Old 06-26-2006, 04:55 PM   #8
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UPDATE: I did what you said hardcorez28. car still ran fine, no coes popped not even rough idling. Looks more and more it pops the code at normal operating temp. Stipid me check when the wires we cold and not heated by by the engine. I swear that was the worst place to put a MAF sensor, so close the the pullys and so close the coolant hose. I am going to take it back to chevy dealer since i spent all that money and they didnt fix the problem, so now i am going to make them do it for free.
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Old 06-30-2006, 04:19 PM   #9
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Adding to the delimma that is my car lol. I was searching around near the distributer cap and there is a single green wire connected, near the end of the driver side fuel rail near the fire wall. I noticed it was a little loose so i try to put it back together and bam one side fallsdown and now i cant seem to find it anywhere. It got so bad this morning i was lying on top of the intake to see behind the cap. Now does anyone know what i am talking about and 2.) what does it do and is it that important. now i have a few diagrams on this but it doesnt say what it does, stratch that i cant even find it on the diagrams.

Another thing, i found a chart with the OEM specs for the electrical system. I tested out the MAF singal wire from the ECM to the MAF, and it wasnt reading at all and sometimes not high enough. I think i found the prob. Now my question is, is get a new wiring harness for the MAF system OR convert it to speed density??
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Old 06-30-2006, 10:10 PM   #10
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Im pretty sure there is someone over on TGO, he has 2 seperate ECMs or something, and a switch to choose between MAF and Speed Density. Speed Density from what I've read hurts performance a little bit, as much as 3 tenths in the quarter. I wouldnt bother with SD, just double check all the connectors, and if that doesnt help, go to a junkyard and yank a harness.
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Old 06-30-2006, 11:30 PM   #11
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tap on the maf housing while the car is running,if the idle goes up or down/trys to stall etc while u tap on it the maf is no good.code 33 is hi vacum at maf,meaning its telling the ecm there is a lot of air entering the engine.is the engine modded?
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:16 AM   #12
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Lethal, no the engine is stock, nothing modded. i did the tap the MAF and it does exaactly that, it goes down and tries to stall popping the code. Then the car runs like crap. Exactly like hitting a bump, when it ususally happens or when i make a full left or right turn, like in a K-turn. Since my dad is works with wiring and stuff, we tested the MAF singal wire and it was giving the same reading through the tests you can do. with Key on it was reading 5.03V when it was supposed to be .4V to 1V. then with the engine on and running same result 5.03V and with WOT it was 5.02. Now could that be an ECM problem or a wiring problem??
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:23 AM   #13
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replace it,80% sure that would be a bad maf,goto autozone and pic up a maf and try it,if it still does the same thing then u know u have other problems,and then u can return the maf u just bought to autozone,if u do buy another one dont turn in ur old one as a core,cause if u do and the new maf does the same things,u wont be able to return the one u just bought and get ur old maf back
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:41 AM   #14
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I just got this MAF sensor like a week and half ago from the dealer lol. How would test the MAF itself??
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Old 07-01-2006, 09:55 AM   #15
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take it back,if its a remanufactured maf more then likely its bad,eithe rhave them replace it,or refund ur money.u test the maf by testing the voltag eit puts out on the signal wire,i dont know what the volts should be for idle/part throtle/wot,but what u can do is hook up the voltmeter,and check the voltag eat idle,and then crack the throttle and see if the reading changes,

edit nm u did that take the maf back its bad
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:08 AM   #16
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Ok going to test it now, i checked the wire off the sensor and i am going to check it with the sensor on. I post the results soon
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:29 AM   #17
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yeah it has to be pluged in,that 5volt wire u probed may have been an 5 volt refernce wire not the signal wire,iof the sensor was unpluged the signal wire should have 0 volts if im not mistaken
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:07 AM   #18
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Ok when key is on it is 2.4V+/-. when i have the engine on it ranges from .6 to 1.2V but it stumbles it rises to almost 3V, popping the code.
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:14 AM   #19
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ok now u just need to find out what the voltage should be @ idle and wot,if its off from what it should be u sir have a bad maf
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:54 AM   #20
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ALLDATA gives me 2.4V with "key on" and .4 -1V with engine running. Now from my testing it is fine until you tap the MAF sensor. so does that mean i have a bad MAF sensor?
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Old 07-01-2006, 12:29 PM   #21
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yes if the voltag echanges when u tap the maf its junk,take it back to the dealer
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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Old 07-01-2006, 08:18 PM   #22
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Well I went to advanced auto and ordered me a new one, not a remanufactured one, so tomorrow i will pick it up and put it in my car. Will give you the results tomorrow sometime.
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:06 PM   #23
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UPDATE: I got a new MAF sensor, not a remanufactured one and guess what 10 min after i out it in it popped the code. So I am back to square one. At this point I am just about to torch the damn thing and get a ricer.
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Old 07-03-2006, 05:47 PM   #24
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UPDATE: Ok with the new MAF sensor on it popped code 33 again and code 36, now code 36 states, MAF burnoff. Ok what does this mean, i change the relays for both burn off and maf sensor.
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Old 07-03-2006, 08:47 PM   #25
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check the power lead to the burnoff relay
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#1 1989 RS - 3.0L V6 11.0-1 CR, LIGHTENED CRANK,J.E FORGED PISTONS, CUSTOM 280/284 .575/.575 116LSA ROLLER CAM, PORTED HEADS, PORTED INTAKE,CUSTOM TURBO KIT W/ BW S475,AW INTERCOOLER,METHANOL INJECTION, TCI STREETFIGHTER 700R4 W/ TCI 4,500 STALL,TWIN WALBORO 255'S & 83# INJECTORS
268 rwhp & 367.6 ftlbs @ 10 psi 3.1l
12.30's @ 112 3.1L @ 9 psi
??.?? @ ???? 3.0L @ 18 PSI
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