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01-09-2009, 11:53 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,855
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Car wont fire.
The firebird is back together. The motor was at tdc and the distributor was installed at the 5:30 position. pointing at number 1. The wires are also correct. The car will turn over and it sounds normal, but it just wont fire. Its getting fuel and air, But after cranking it and playing with the timing i killed the battery so I couldn't check the spark.
If the timing is adjusted one way it will have a minor back fire out of the carb. If its adjusted the other way. it sounds normal but it just wont fire.
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1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
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01-10-2009, 12:03 AM
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#2
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: West Long Branch
Posts: 13,598
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You did it once before, you will do it again....just give it time.
I cant seen the damn screen im laughin so hard....
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2/20/2013: They Day the ****s Stopped
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01-10-2009, 12:17 AM
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#3
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,855
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want to put money on it?
pretty sure its just 180 out.
__________________
1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
Last edited by WayFast84; 01-10-2009 at 12:17 AM.
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01-10-2009, 12:50 AM
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#4
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: West Long Branch
Posts: 13,598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
want to put money on it?
pretty sure its just 180 out.
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Thats not what Im talking about...
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2/20/2013: They Day the ****s Stopped
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01-10-2009, 01:25 AM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Shreveport Louisianna Barksdale AFB
Posts: 1,415
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Check your valve lash? Make sure you adjust the rockers properly and your getting good compression. Keep playing with the dizzy I still have a hard time getting it in right half the time.
__________________
USAF Jet Propulsion Specialist
1985 383 Camaro-nothing special I promise
2000 NBM z28-also nothing special
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01-10-2009, 07:53 AM
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#6
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 3,047
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My guess, if you have fuel, air, and spark, your valve lash is too tight, especially if turning the dizzy while cranking doesn't get it to fire.
__________________
Seeya,
Steve R. in North Jersey
'16 Go-Mango Dodge Charger R/T. It's so good to be back in a V8-powered, RWD car!
Former Toy - '88 Monte SS - had lots of mods...
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01-10-2009, 08:15 AM
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#7
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fishkill, NY
Posts: 1,278
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I'd say it's 180 out, I'd try that first.
__________________
-Nick
9/11/01- Never Forget
2002 Pontiac Trans-Am WS6 # 206
Chasing 10's
469RWH/437RWTQ
11.05 @ 123
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01-10-2009, 08:30 AM
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#8
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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How did you find top dead center? Turn the motor till the #1 intake valve open and closed? Then turned till the balancer lined up with 0*?
or did you just turn the motor till the balancer lined up with 0*?
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-10-2009, 08:39 AM
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#9
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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we talking 5:30 position on your watch?
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01-10-2009, 08:41 AM
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#10
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
we talking 5:30 position on your watch?
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Since that doesn't seem to help this question at all, try not being a smart ass so this thread does escalate into a retarded e-screaming match with this kid....
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
Last edited by deadtrend1; 01-10-2009 at 08:43 AM.
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01-10-2009, 09:08 AM
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#11
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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nah i'm good. i would like clarification on the 5:30 thing though because it doesn't make sense and it is probably where his problem lies.
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01-10-2009, 09:42 AM
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#12
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
nah i'm good. i would like clarification on the 5:30 thing though because it doesn't make sense and it is probably where his problem lies.
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Probably means he has the rotor pointing towards the front left corner of the motor. Just guessing though..
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-10-2009, 10:42 AM
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#13
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Meet Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: brick/pt. pleasant beach
Posts: 19,341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadtrend1
Probably means he has the rotor pointing towards the front left corner of the motor. Just guessing though..
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yeah i dono thats why i'm asking. could be anything with WF.
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01-10-2009, 02:42 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Shreveport Louisianna Barksdale AFB
Posts: 1,415
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Valve lash check it! Back off on those rockers man that valve lash is probally on to tight. Did you set each valve up by putting that piston at tdc? That cause my not to get my motor to start before.
__________________
USAF Jet Propulsion Specialist
1985 383 Camaro-nothing special I promise
2000 NBM z28-also nothing special
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01-10-2009, 05:03 PM
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#15
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Ayatollah of Rock N Rolla / Admin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 12,573
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You all mean lifter preload. He should not have valve lash on a hydraulic cammed motor.
WF: Check this stuff
1.) Charge your battery to a full charge
2.) Check for 180* out
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01-10-2009, 07:20 PM
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#16
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 3,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildBillyT
You all mean lifter preload. He should not have valve lash on a hydraulic cammed motor.
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True. However, if the rocker arms are cranked down too tight, the motor won't fire. And since he had the heads off and had to reset all of them, there's a good possibility the lifters bled down in the meantime and he overtightened them. When we built my 305 eons ago we did the same thing, and it wouldn't fire worth a damn - sounded like it wanted to, but just couldn't. Once we loosened everything up 1/2 turn, the motor came to life and we re-adjusted the rocker arms.
I agree though, he should check his firing order and dizzy first before tearing the valve covers off again.
__________________
Seeya,
Steve R. in North Jersey
'16 Go-Mango Dodge Charger R/T. It's so good to be back in a V8-powered, RWD car!
Former Toy - '88 Monte SS - had lots of mods...
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01-10-2009, 11:25 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,855
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how many turns are you supposed to turn them? I did 3/4 of a turn. I used the two sided method to adjust the valves.
__________________
1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
Last edited by WayFast84; 01-10-2009 at 11:26 PM.
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01-11-2009, 12:37 AM
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#18
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Mongo the Meet Coordinator
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 16,896
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What kind of lifters?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil
repo bigals turd gen and part it out to a loving home
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01-11-2009, 12:53 AM
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#19
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NJFBOA Co-Founder
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: All up in your kool aid!
Posts: 12,235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayFast84
how many turns are you supposed to turn them? I did 3/4 of a turn. I used the two sided method to adjust the valves.
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Check the specs, I thought comp called for 1/4-1/2 turn on their hydraulic lifters. I usually put them at 1/4 and then go over them again after the engine has been run through a full heat cycle.
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01-11-2009, 01:02 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Shreveport Louisianna Barksdale AFB
Posts: 1,415
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back each one off 1/4 turn and try it again then 1/8th of a turn(valve covers can stay off) see if anything changed dude.
If I get a new car tom ill stop by during the week(after i get insurance and it registered) if you havnt figured it out by then.
__________________
USAF Jet Propulsion Specialist
1985 383 Camaro-nothing special I promise
2000 NBM z28-also nothing special
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01-11-2009, 01:29 AM
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#21
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NJFBOA Co-Founder
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: All up in your kool aid!
Posts: 12,235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersyboyy
back each one off 1/4 turn and try it again then 1/8th of a turn(valve covers can stay off) see if anything changed dude.
If I get a new car tom ill stop by during the week(after i get insurance and it registered) if you havnt figured it out by then.
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Please don't run the motor with the valve covers off. It just makes a friggin mess and you don't want to touch it whiel it is moving anyway. There are only four bolts and a gasket on each side, take the two minutes to put them on
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01-11-2009, 06:47 AM
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#22
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11 second club / Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Berlin, NJ
Posts: 7,148
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I always just turned a extra 1/2
__________________
2001 Trans Am WS6 •SLP Loudmouth II •UMI Suspension •12.857 @ 109.57
1996 Trans Am WS6 •Pacesetter Longtubes •Strange 12 Bolt •Spohn Suspension •11.152 @ 123.85
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01-11-2009, 12:39 PM
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#23
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11 Second Club
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Pitman, NJ
Posts: 587
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Here we go..... Goof proof method of putting a distributor in right the first time.....
Take out the #1 spark plug, put your finger over the hole and turn the motor over (preferably by hand - remove all plugs to make this easier) until compression blows your finger out. Continue to turn it until the mark on the balancer comes to the 16* BTDC mark (or wherever you want your initial timing at...) on the timing tab. With the distributor still in, make a mark on the body of it where the #1 plug terminal on the cap is. Now take off the cap... is the rotor pointing close to the mark you made? If yes then put the cap back on and spark plug(s) back in. Now hook up a timing light and turn the ignition on (don't crank it! just key in ON position). Pull the trigger on the timing light while you spin the distributor clockwise, then back counter-clockwise. The light will flash and this is where you want to stop turning it and tighten the hold-down. Your done, your timing is right.
If your rotor was not pointing at the mark you made on the distributor body, pull out the distributor and drop it back in so they line up then bump the motor over, the distributor will line up with the oil pump driveshaft by itself and remain in the correct position... Time and time again I see people wasting their time sticking a screw driver down the motor trying to get the distributor to fully seat - Just drop it in until it half-way meshes with the gears and bump the motor over. Anyway, after you do this you need to repeat the first steps - Finger over plug, feel for compression, mark off rotor, etc...
If the car still doesn't start, your valve lash is wrong - There is a goofproof way of doing this too but thats another 19 paragraphs.
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01-12-2009, 05:25 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Edison
Posts: 7,855
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It was 180 degrees off, but it still wont fire and the negative battery terminal heated up and began melting..
__________________
1984 Firebird
2000 Z28
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01-12-2009, 06:29 PM
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#25
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Mr Fantastic
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: West Milford NJ
Posts: 7,917
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sounds like a bad ground or starter motor
__________________
Matt
B18B1 FTW
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