header install - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

19iroc88 · 07-03-2009, 05:33 PM

i posted up a while ago about installing my headers and i still havent gotten around to putting them in i wanted to do it this weekend or next, but i just wanted to get a little more clarification...

anyone have a step by step direction this is my first header install so im a noob

i have hedman midlengths

anything will be helpfull, thanks

NastyEllEssWon · 07-03-2009, 05:43 PM

unbolt exhaust and manifold. put gasket and header on.

//<86TA>\\ · 07-03-2009, 06:11 PM

do you have the y-pipe for the headers? you will need it.

19iroc88 · 07-03-2009, 06:28 PM

i need to get one custon made they dont make one for mine,

that sounds way too simple lol dont i have to put a different starter in

deadtrend1 · 07-03-2009, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19iroc88

i need to get one custon made they dont make one for mine,

that sounds way too simple lol dont i have to put a different starter in

hooker supercomps are the only ones I know the require a LT1 or Mini starter

Tru2Chevy · 07-04-2009, 08:50 PM

PB Blaster will be your best friend. Get a can or two and soak all of the bolts on your exhaust manifolds very well with them every day for several days before you attempt to pull the old rusty stock bolts out of the heads. This will give you a fighting chance at not breaking a bolt off inside the head.

Is this your only means of transportation?

- Justin

Ispooledurmom · 07-05-2009, 09:16 PM

Where are you located might be able to help.

cdacda13 · 07-05-2009, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

PB Blaster will be your best friend. Get a can or two and soak all of the bolts on your exhaust manifolds very well with them every day for several days before you attempt to pull the old rusty stock bolts out of the heads. This will give you a fighting chance at not breaking a bolt off inside the head.

Is this your only means of transportation?

- Justin

This. I did headers on my Camaro about a year ago. The bolts were rusted beyond belief. PB blast the hell out of them. If that doesn't work and you have to touch them, watch for wires. (Learned a lesson the hard way on that one.)
If you have AC, its even more difficult. You might have to un-bolt the motor mounts and lift the motor to get it in.
If you haven't done plugs in a while, do them before the new headers go in.
Get locking header bolts. The ones that came with my Headman shorties kept turning themselves out until they rusted in place.
Make sure the headers are properly coated. Mine rusted in no time with the paint that came from the factory.
I think that's it.

ib4200 · 07-05-2009, 11:39 PM

yeah if they arnt ceramic the paint that comes on headers is usually to protect from rust while in a warehouse, therefore they dont use high quality or in some cases high temp paint. i sandblasted mine and painted them with high temp VHT header paint

19iroc88 · 07-06-2009, 03:09 PM

alright ill go put some pb on now, no i have another car i can use for the week

19iroc88 · 07-09-2009, 08:12 PM

started the headers this afternoon everything is goin great and smoothly so far got the air stuff outa the way and the y pipe off tomorrow after work im gonna take the manifold off and hopefully get the headers on

FIcamaroRE92 · 07-09-2009, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tru2Chevy

PB Blaster will be your best friend. Get a can or two and soak all of the bolts on your exhaust manifolds very well with them every day for several days before you attempt to pull the old rusty stock bolts out of the heads. This will give you a fighting chance at not breaking a bolt off inside the head.

Is this your only means of transportation?

- Justin

def do that, they were whores on my car.

HardcoreZ28 · 07-10-2009, 07:30 AM

Locking header bolts are the way to go. Also since nobody mentioned it.....on a thirdgen it's easiest to drop the passenger header in from the top and the driver slips in easier from the bottom. Use good quality gaskets. May have to pull the dipstick tube during install. On occassion I've even pulled my valve covers to make it easier to work around in there.....but if you have AIR injection still beware that putting the covers back on after can be a real pain.

sab123 · 07-10-2009, 09:19 AM

Don't forget to clean the surfaces on the block from the remains of the old gaskets and rust before installing the new headers. Usually a razor blade scraper and brake cleaner fluid work pretty good for that.

HardcoreZ28 · 07-10-2009, 10:54 AM

Watch out for sensors....especially the knock sensor and fan switch in the block as they are easy to break in the process.

Also for locking bolts....don't bother with the Stage 8 ones with the clips...they are a hassle on these cars. Breslin makes some split lock ones that work great. They look like regular bolts but have a set screw in the middle that expands the threads slightly in the block.

deadtrend1 · 07-10-2009, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HardcoreZ28

...
Also for locking bolts....don't bother with the Stage 8 ones with the clips...they are a hassle on these cars...

I put them on once and only once.

Czop418 · 07-10-2009, 03:05 PM

yea i would recomend get some ac delco plugs 100 k warranty on them. and you dont ant to take the headers back off to change the plugs.

19iroc88 · 07-10-2009, 09:04 PM

ok i got the drivers side header in the manifold unbolted perfectly and the header just popped right in from the top in like two seconds not a problem. the passenger side is being a pain the second to last manifold bolt is still on and i cant seem to get it off i have is soaking in pb blaster tonite and im plannin to look at it better tomorrow any tricks?

cdacda13 · 07-10-2009, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19iroc88

ok i got the drivers side header in the manifold unbolted perfectly and the header just popped right in from the top in like two seconds not a problem. the passenger side is being a pain the second to last manifold bolt is still on and i cant seem to get it off i have is soaking in pb blaster tonite and im plannin to look at it better tomorrow any tricks?

Torch it.

HeadlessNorseman · 07-10-2009, 11:55 PM

yeah there is always a bolt stuck in the passenger side head. Its the one with the dipstick hold down isnt it? I had to grind it off then drill the bolt out

Czop418 · 07-11-2009, 03:56 AM

yea definitly soak that sucker in pb blaster , and if you have jack stands bust them out. Its easier to acces that last manifold bolt near the dip stick , from underneath the car when you unbolt your Y. And like everybody else said if you cant get it out with pb blast torch that bad boy till its cherry red than give it another wack.

19iroc88 · 07-11-2009, 08:12 AM

ok ive been trying all morning and the bolt feels/looks like its gonna strip, if i torch it wont the bold be stuck in the head or can i get a vice grip there and turn it out??

19iroc88 · 07-11-2009, 01:45 PM

got the manifold off! now i get to order a new dipstick tube and sending unit

19iroc88 · 07-12-2009, 11:27 AM

headers are finally in! ran into a couple snags along the way but it all worked out.. i ended up "knocking" the knock sensor (assuming that it is the knock sensor, coolant came out when i unbolted it??) and it broke so i guess i have to replace that anyone know if its ok to run without one for a little bit enough to get it on a flatbed to the exhaust shop?

deadtrend1 · 07-12-2009, 12:38 PM

knock sensor is on the passenger side, just above the oil pan, and its a big and round. Kinda looks like a top.

The coolant sensor for the gauge is drivers side, towards the front a bit near the spark plugs. That usually is the one that gets broken.

The coolant switch for the fans is passenger side towards the rear near the spark plugs. What one did you break?