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Old 07-08-2017, 11:59 AM   #1
LS1ow
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Battery Wiring

Trying to get a hold of this wiring as itll most likely be the next steps ill be completing during the project and id like to complete it one shot.

-Battery In Trunk
-Moroso 2 prong cut off switch
-RaceTronix fuel pump hotwire kit

Im a bit confused with the 2 prong cut off switch set up. The Moroso instuctions shows a cable from positive post to 1 prong of the cut off switch. Off that same prong, a wire to the alternator output. Off the other prong, a wire to the starter motor.

Why does that sound funky to me? Do these not function like a normal toggle switch? To me it looks like even when the switch is "Off" the battery is still putting power to the alternator no? and then when it switches to "On" it gives the starter motor power. Does the car receive its power for the fuse boxes and ECM and everything off the alternator or the starter? I havent ever messed with any of this stuff so its all a bit shady to me. I assumed the wiring would be Postitive battery post to 1 prong of cut off switch, and then all the wiring ran off the other prong. So when the switch is in the "OFF" position, nothing on the car has power. I am thrown for a confusion here guys.

Anyways, lets go forwards assuming the Moroso way is the correct way.

Battery Ground-

Simple enough. 0g cable to a chassis ground, no? Can i just run cable from the negative post, out of the box and then clean up a spot on the "rear frame rail" inside the car and ground it there?

Battery To Cut Off Switch-
Simple again right? 0g from positive post to 1 prong of the switch.

Cut Off Switch to Alternator output-
0g Cable right to the stud on the alternator?

Cut off Switch to Starter Motor-
4g Cable to stud on starter ?

Fuel Pump Hotwire-

as per racetronix, the FPHW kit gets ran to the front of the car and to the alternator output stud. But since it appears i ahve to run a cable from the alternator output to the back of the car to the cut off, can i just put the hot wire kit to the prong of the cut off that has both the positve cable and alternator output to it? I just want to minimize the amount of cables i have traversing the underside of the car.

Which brings me to this...

The Alternator is on the driver side of the car, so am i okay running it from the Ttop well were the battery is, along the bottom of the tank, over the rear, and then run it along the brake line all the way to the front. Securing it with zip ties to the brake line/fuel line cluster. Or is that a no go?
Starter motor is on the passenger side of the car, so thats being advised here? run it up to the front of the car with the alternator cable, and then run it about the trans and down to the starter? or just run it up the passenger side and figure out a way to secure it.

OPTIONAL STUFFS

Rather that drilling holes and just running grommet around the cable, i was thinking of getting 2 of these for the 2 cables that have to head up front. Any input? Figuring it will not only be A. Cleaner, but B. Ill be able to get all the wiring on the outside done now, and then worry about the inside wiring later once i get a battery.



Next idea.. Since there is a ton of stuff happening outside the car by the rear(fuel lines, brake lines, hot wire harness/relay/ground) I was thinking instead of dropping the 2 wires that need to come up front out of the cabin threw the T-top well, i can run them up inside the car on the floor board, and then run 2 of those connectors listed above. I would either have them come threw at the firewall(on the AC delete plate) or on the floor pan behind either seat


ALSO,

Reccomendations on were to snag some cable and ends? I have the tools to cut and crimp big cable
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99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
Motor - 10.84 @ 128 - 1.47 60'
Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"

Last edited by LS1ow; 07-08-2017 at 12:07 PM.
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Old 07-08-2017, 01:13 PM   #2
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TLDR, looks well thought out though.

Both the battery AND alternator go to one side of the cut off switch. Both the battery AND alternator can AND will continue to power anything and everything in the car, like your fuel pump. The other side of the cut off switch is a lead going to the starter. Then, a lead goes from that same starter post to the fuse box. Kill the switch, all power is killed.

Do a ground from battery to frame rail as you described. Also, one from motor to frame rail.

I ran the hotwire kit to the starter side of the kill switch, nice and simple.

I bought 100 feet of 1/0 OFC wirefrom ebay, quality ****. Make sure you get OFC, not CCA.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:37 AM   #3
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I sent you pics of mine fool.

Alt/battery on one side of switch. Starter and any other car hookups on other. Good grounds.

I run an extra ground line from alternator case to chassis.

I was not a fan of the super fine copper braid like Adam suggests, cars are not high frequency or sensitive loads to really need it. But it works and is easy to route
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Old 07-09-2017, 11:24 AM   #4
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Hey, it works for the insane car stereo competition guys and all too often I read of battery relocation hot start issues. Rather prevent a problem than fix it later
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Old 07-09-2017, 04:52 PM   #5
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Kohler that was months ago!
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99 Z28 - SBE LS1/60e
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:14 PM   #6
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jesus christ this wiring is expensive
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 07-10-2017, 04:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LS1ow View Post
jesus christ this wiring is expensive
You don't know any welders?
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Old 07-10-2017, 05:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
You don't know any welders?
I know a ton. Are you saying have them purchase for me threw some form of wholesale welding supply?
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Nitrous - 10.16 @ 132 - 1.40 60"
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:12 PM   #9
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I am saying if you know any of that are replacing cables, any heavier setup cables will work fine for your car.
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Old 09-21-2017, 02:21 PM   #10
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Don't go two Gauge fool
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