Brakes

[sweetbmxrider]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

Actually, brake fluid can get cooked under aggressive driving. I drive aggressively, thus I will bleed my brakes!

switch to dot 4 or 5, higher boiling point

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

switch to dot 4 or 5, higher boiling point

Dot 5 can give you a spongy pedal. And I am not sure if it will work with ABS.

[qwikz28]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

switch to dot 4 or 5, higher boiling point

Like Bill said, I am not sure it is compatible. I'd rather just stick to whats in the Service Manual and do multiple flushes. I don't want a spongy pedal or an inoperative ABS system

[WildBillyT]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

Like Bill said, I am not sure it is compatible. I'd rather just stick to whats in the Service Manual and do multiple flushes. I don't want a spongy pedal or an inoperative ABS system

You can use a higher grade dot 3/4. I forget what I have, maybe Castrol GT-LMA?

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

switch to dot 4 or 5, higher boiling point

Boiling point is not really an issue for street cars. Regular autocrossers & open trackers sure.

Happy reading:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

We won’t even discuss DOT 5 fluids as they are completely unacceptable to the high-performance enthusiast..... Silicone-based DOT 5 fluids are for non-driven trailer queens because they don't have the moisture issues like the others..

but the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort.

Then it gets into 5.1 v 5, and how some quality DOT3 may be better than a cheaper DOT4.

Best advice for a street car is to stay with what you have, likely DOT3.

[qwikz28]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Boiling point is not really an issue for street cars. Regular autocrossers & open trackers sure.

Happy reading:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...fluid_1a.shtml

We won’t even discuss DOT 5 fluids as they are completely unacceptable to the high-performance enthusiast..... Silicone-based DOT 5 fluids are for non-driven trailer queens because they don't have the moisture issues like the others..

but the message here is this: it’s fine to upgrade from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 3 fluid B, but you should think twice (maybe even three times) before switching from DOT 3 fluid A to DOT 4 fluid of any sort.

Then it gets into 5.1 v 5, and how some quality DOT3 may be better than a cheaper DOT4.

Best advice for a street car is to stay with what you have, likely DOT3.

Yup, thats what I'm doing for the Saturn. Camaro is getting ATE Super Blue

[sweetbmxrider]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Boiling point is not really an issue for street cars. Regular autocrossers & open trackers sure.

he said his brake fluid was cooking and i said dot 4 and 5 have higher boiling points.

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

he said his brake fluid was cooking and i said dot 4 and 5 have higher boiling points.

He said “Actually, brake fluid can get cooked under aggressive driving. I drive aggressively, thus I will bleed my brakes!“. He didn’t say he had an issue, he inferred he could. Other then rare exceptions (people who drive like idiots or another malfunction that causes it), quality DOT3 that is flushed as required will not give you boil issues on a street car. Again, autox/open track is a different story.

I'm having trouble distinguishing the stupid from the sarcasm in this thread. Brake fluid should be flushed ~every 2 years as it draws in moisture. I do it whenever I change pads, easy to remember. Plus I always open the bleeders when I push calipers back in because you are supposed to so you don’t push contaminants back up into the system. But I know the shade trees will disagree with that and they are always right.

[sweetbmxrider]

well when an abs valve gets stuck open then they will learn.

does moisture cause brake fluid to turn into a dark color?

[qwikz28]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

Plus I always open the bleeders when I push calipers back in because you are supposed to so you don’t push contaminants back up into the system.

Really? I thought you just gotta uncap the reservoir

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by qwikz28

Really? I thought you just gotta uncap the reservoir

That makes no sense to me. You're still pushing & forcing fluid back in a direction is it not supposed to be forced, along with whatever is in the fliud.

[qwikz28]

any suggestions on how to take brake drums off?

Edit: got one off. The other one is gonna take some persuading, but not until after lunch

[BonzoHansen]

is the ebrake off?

Is it stuck on the hub or hanging on the shoes?

Do the drums have threaded holes in them? If so you can run bolts in. I don't remember if they have them on saturns.

Some PB blaster around the hub and a BFH on the drum face.

[qwikz28]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

is the ebrake off?

Is it stuck on the hub or hanging on the shoes?

Do the drums have threaded holes in them? If so you can run bolts in. I don't remember if they have them on saturns.

Some PB blaster around the hub and a BFH on the drum face.

For some reason there is no holes in them. What I did was wack a hammer around the lip, but not on the face, but rather from inside the well. It worked for the drivers side, but now I'm wacking left handed on the passenger side. We'll see. It looks really rusty in there, but there seems to be a ton of material left on teh shoes.

I bought replacement drums so I'm not worried about damaging them.

Thanks for the response. I'm sure I'll be popping in with more questions soon. I hate brakes

[BigAls87Z28]

Drums, just keep hitting them till they come off.

DOT4 is for BMW's.

[BonzoHansen]

Remember, do one side at a time so you have a reference.

[qwikz28]

yup. Just want to get the offer drum off before I rip one side apart.

[qwikz28]

Drum isn't coming off. Gonna go find a puller. It is snagged on the pads for some reason. I don't know how to release the pads. I suppose I could open the bleeder valve since I'll be bleeding anyway. Hmm... I'll think about it.

[NastyEllEssWon]

take a look at the other side drum (the one you have off). check to see if there is an adjustment wheel on the backside of the drumplate. sometimes theres a little hole on the back that you can shove a brake fork in the hole and adjust the shoe to drum clearance while the hat is on...that will loosen up the shoes from the hat

[BonzoHansen]

What he said. And drums use shoes, not pads.

[sweetbmxrider]

don't take the other side apart yet. try prying behind it too but turning the adjuster in is the best bet.

[NastyEllEssWon]

yeah look for a slot on the back of the drum mount plate. then you can spin the starwheel inside and relieve the pressure on the hat

[qwikz28]

This car does not have a hole for the adjustment. I went to autoparts store near my house, guy is an ex-saturn tech. He said my only option is to keep hammering.

[qwikz28]

GOT IT!

After all that, I got it off by pulling it with my hands. Doused it in PB Blaster (more than before, and a few lucky prys with the screw driver. Nothing broke either.

[BigAls87Z28]

Ahahaha...good stuff Jake!

Now comes the hard part...fixing drum brakes!