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Old 04-11-2012, 04:44 AM   #51
Blackbirdws6
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Polished pieces look great. You may not be happy how they look after the first warm up unless you got these coated.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:39 AM   #52
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When you say coated, do you mean ceramic coated or jet hot coated?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:49 AM   #53
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I meant coated in any way. The metal is going to turn different colors once you get them hot the first time. If they are ceramic or jet hot coated, then they should stay with a similar finish.
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97 T/A Ram Air Convt
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'24 Corvette Z06
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:52 AM   #54
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I just sent over an email to the polishing company asking about that?
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:59 PM   #55
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I must have missed this posting. That is one nice looking car!! To each there own with the wing and ground effects but I think it looks great.
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:53 PM   #56
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Thanks for compliment, I really just wanted my car to look alittle different from other lt1's on the road. do I think my car looks better than others.....no, but it is what I want. I can't wait to rip into the 02 silver ss and make it look like like this one except it having the stock ss spoiler and it will have SS badges on it. I plan on doing a le3 heads and cam, bigger intake and TB. I will also be customizing an air intake system as well. Also doing a full dual kooks exhaust as well.

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Old 04-12-2012, 08:27 PM   #57
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Was wondering how much work is involved in welding on these sub-frame connectors?
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:41 PM   #58
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I need so help with these O2 sensors and my long tube headers. Ok the problem is this my hooker long tube headers have no O2 bung holes in them. Should I drill the hole in the collector or will I be safe in drilling the holes for the O2 bungs in the y-pipe right where the Y-pipe connects to the headers? Reason I don't want to drill the holes into the headers is because I don't want to start cutting into these things if I don't have to, I'd rather drill into the y-pipe. But if I have I will. Also I'm only running the front two O2 sensors.
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:30 PM   #59
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some progress is being made
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File Type: jpg 2012-04-18_17-44-43_192.jpg (97.3 KB, 44 views)
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Old 04-18-2012, 08:39 PM   #60
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so, as my project stands now, i still have valve covers, air intake, alternator, and few other loose ends to tie up before the motor goes into the car. some bad news though, the front BMR k-member i'm going to have to pass on for right not, between this project and my 02' SS project, funds are just not there. keeping in mind i still have another $7,000.00 grand to put into body work on this car . thanks LTb10w for the throttle cable, that i picked up today. popped open the hood the car today, and realized a bird started to make a nest where the PCM goes. bye bye nest, this damn car has to get back inside cant be having that go on. I'll keep everyone posted on new updates, i would say my next photos i'll be uploading will be the motor going back up in the car.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:32 PM   #61
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need some help, my plug wires are really close to my headers, what can i do to protect my wires, what has others done to fix this problem so my wires dont burn up. Summit racing has heat protectors part# TAY-2570. will these work??? Motor is going in tonight!!!!!!!!! I will wait on firing it up till i have this small dilemma solved.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:57 PM   #62
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wow man car looks amazing. lets go cruising this summer.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:57 PM   #63
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How close are they and how do you have them ran at the moment? Over the valve cover or stock location.
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97 T/A Ram Air Convt
Forever dyno queen / 777rwhp 662 rwtq @ 17lbs / 10.2 @ 140

'24 Corvette Z06
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:18 PM   #64
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I would say they are about 3/4 of an inch from the headers and they mounted in a stock position, not on the valve covers
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:44 PM   #65
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3/4" isn't bad as long as they are good wires and won't flop around to touch the headers. Should be fine for basic start up until you get some protective sleeves for piece of mind.
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97 T/A Ram Air Convt
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'24 Corvette Z06
17 Sierra 2500HD Dmax
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:15 AM   #66
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Motor is in, webbing on new valve covers isn't clearing rocker arms. so I found a post on ls1tech on what to cut and asked a buddy of mine who has done cutting on his own valve covers in the past if he do some cutting for me. If that still don't work, canton valve covers are next.
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Old 04-28-2012, 09:33 AM   #67
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My buddy sent me this photo as he was cutting away. Fingers are crossed, I have developed a love hate relationship with this car now, and right now I hate her.
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Old 04-28-2012, 02:03 PM   #68
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Decided to upload photos of some more progress on this project. I realized that this car is sitting on the ground so I had to stop on jacking it up. The rear is looking pretty good, right now I'm working on getting the drive shaft up and in the car. Getting a few last measurements and I'll have that made up and put into place. Going with 1350 u-joints on rear and slip yokes.
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #69
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The old motor sitting in pieces, I think maybe tomorrow I'll put her some what back together so it looks more like a motor.
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Old 04-28-2012, 05:50 PM   #70
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Looking real good!
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #71
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Got my new valve covers back from buddy after he milled them down, he did a sick @ss job on them, went right on with no issues. Also decided to clean up the old motor, that buddy bought off of me. Sad to see her about to go, oh well onto bigger and better things. Like a 427 complete ls long block.
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File Type: jpg 2012-04-29_13-41-32_320.jpg (98.1 KB, 34 views)
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Old 04-29-2012, 07:43 PM   #72
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The oil fill cap is supposed to be on the passenger side
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Old 04-29-2012, 10:20 PM   #73
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Yeah I know....lol I just placed those valve coves on to keep the dirt and dust out. Thanks though.
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Old 04-30-2012, 10:23 AM   #74
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badass motor! the wing and gfx are cool... like you said makes it different. good luck with the build
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Old 04-30-2012, 06:04 PM   #75
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Thanks man, the build is coming to an end. I get my drive shaft tomorrow, so the motor will me connected to the the rear by the end of tomorrow. I still have to do the front rotors and brake calipers, bolt that BMR torque arm on and weld those BMR sub-frame connectors. Reconnect radiator, condenser, and install my water temp, oil pressure , air / fuel gauges. Connect all sensors and walla done. Start it up, let it run through some heat cycles, take for a test drive, if all is well, drop it off at the body shop and its done. This car has been off the road since September of last year.....I really can't wait to have her back.
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