Torque arm suggestions - NJFBOA - Home of New Jersey's Camaros and Firebirds

MyFirstZ · 05-29-2011, 11:24 AM

Alright so i have been looking around for my new clutch that i will be installing this summer. While I have the trans out im going to do the torque arm. But there are a few dozen between brands and ones for lt's.

I really can't run into a fitment issue since when i do my install i have minimum a friday night and saturday till 8pm.

My question is which ones with fit with american racing headers lt's and which brand do you guys use/prefer?

KirkEvil · 05-29-2011, 01:46 PM

I have a spohn chassis mount with rod ends, its basically the same as the UMI one. Most aftermarket will do their job...it comes down to whether you prefer a chassis mount or full length. The chassis mounted TAs transmit a lot of noise and vibration to the body. You will also hear some banging when the front joint shifts.

92REDBIRD · 05-29-2011, 02:10 PM

I have a UMI non-adjustable torque arm. It fits in stock location. $100 if interested.

MyFirstZ · 05-29-2011, 03:31 PM

What syle would a stock one be considered. Also what are some benefits of the full length to chassis mount?

Let me do a little more research and i will let you know 92redbird.

KirkEvil · 05-30-2011, 01:23 AM

Stock is full length and attached to a bracket off the trans. You can get full length TAs either attached to the trans or off a mount that replaces the trans cross member.

Full length TA's will feel more like the stock while giving you extra stiffness. Chassis mount would be better for adjusting instant center of gravity for our power level with respect to best launching. You also sacrifice less noise with the Chassis mount and cannot run true duals, but it is easier to drop the trans.

I felt a bigger difference when going to a UMI 1.25" rear drag sway bar than a TA. However, the solid adjustable end links on the drag bar make more noise than the chassis mount TA.

Understand that my experience is behind a stalled auto, and the only full length TA I have used was stock. I really have no idea if a M6 will act differently.

MyFirstZ · 05-30-2011, 01:36 AM

Whichever i go with im sure with improve performance in some way, but it is more of an upgrade since im sure it has never been touched in the last 100k

I got some more looking around to do

KirkEvil · 05-30-2011, 06:08 AM

I think its hard to go wrong with a TA, just look at whats in the market....most of them are the same design between major brands. I personally like UMI suspension.

Just a word of advice: get a driveshaft safety loop if you go chassis mount, you car is now making enough power that the stock aluminum driveshaft is dangerous.

MyFirstZ · 05-30-2011, 09:44 AM

yeah that is definitely a must since i have seen some catastrophic failures with some of my buddies.

B4C · 06-07-2011, 02:57 PM

What y-pipe do you have? I had to change my ORY when I went to the UMI chassis mount because the d/s loop hit it

coolmanvette75 · 06-07-2011, 03:14 PM

I have the UMI Adj. T/A. UMI Part #2205. I love it and noticed significantly less wheel hop after install. This is with a 6spd btw.

MyFirstZ · 06-07-2011, 07:05 PM

The make of the y-pipe i dunno, but it is an offroad y. I would imagine it is american racing like the headers. I will find out tommorrow.

As far as the safety loop i wasnt even thinking of that.

Im leaning towards the trans mounted one that 92 redbir offered. No d/s loop though.

mandinggo01 · 06-14-2011, 11:33 PM

the Chassis mount cleared my ory and had a safety loop but it does make alot of noise on the street but works great for racing

siguy · 06-16-2011, 03:21 PM

I am in the same boat as you and i am making way to much horsepower for the stock arm and trans-mount set up if i want to put any kind of sticky tire

I am more leaning towards this set up because i want to take the arm off the tranny mount but don't want the added harness and noise of a body mount so this seems like the best of both worlds

http://www.unbalancedengineering.com/Camaro/TA/

MyFirstZ · 06-16-2011, 08:02 PM

I cant get myself to spend 800$ on a torque arm since that will cost more then any one thing i have put on my car and i am really just looking for the next step over stock.

Awesome read, thanks for that. I wanna read it and try and understand it some more, good info

siguy · 06-20-2011, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyFirstZ

I cant get myself to spend 800$ on a torque arm since that will cost more then any one thing i have put on my car and i am really just looking for the next step over stock.

Awesome read, thanks for that. I wanna read it and try and understand it some more, good info

Yes kinda pricey in my book that's why i wanted to get info from anyone who made the leap before i do

Kat · 06-20-2011, 07:14 PM

*gulp* Can't believe I'm saying this.. Get a BMR Torque Arm relocation cross member and a Spohn Trans Mounted Torque arm

That way you still have a torque arm, that you can adjust the IC, adjust the pinion angle no noise, full length so you don't have the wheel hop under braking and still cut decent 60's..

FWIW I have the Spohn x-member mounted with a rod end in my vert.. I cut 1.5 60's in a under geared car...

//<86TA>\\ · 06-20-2011, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by siguy

Yes kinda pricey in my book that's why i wanted to get info from anyone who made the leap before i do

the RR/autox guys on fraxx love that setup.

Paul Huryk · 05-30-2012, 04:22 PM

You definitely want a chassis mount arm, no matter which brand you go with. I have a Global West arm sitting here for my Camaro - it is meant for road racing more and is a shorter length than stock or typical aftermarket ones.

MyFirstZ · 05-30-2012, 05:10 PM

Installed a UMI chassis mount with drive shaft loop about a month ago with my clutch

greenformula92 · 05-31-2012, 07:22 AM

I have installed the Spohn unit on a third gen and it is a nice piece and the crossmember for the mounting fit great too. If Spohn had a non adjustable unit I would buy that but I don't need the adjustability

Mike · 06-01-2012, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MyFirstZ

I cant get myself to spend 800$ on a torque arm since that will cost more then any one thing i have put on my car and i am really just looking for the next step over stock.

Awesome read, thanks for that. I wanna read it and try and understand it some more, good info

Spend more and buy it once. Or buy just over stock now and spend more later whe. You make more power. Personally, I think that after a better rear, the tq arm is the next most important thing to do on these cars

MyFirstZ · 06-01-2012, 12:40 PM

I spent a little more then half that

Paul Huryk · 06-01-2012, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

Spend more and buy it once. Or buy just over stock now and spend more later whe. You make more power. Personally, I think that after a better rear, the tq arm is the next most important thing to do on these cars

I agree - although you would probably have LCA and panhard rod before those two items...

MyFirstZ · 06-01-2012, 04:33 PM

I do don't worry. This is an old thread btw torque arm was replaced for a UMI ajustable chasis mount with ds safety loop

bigz28man · 06-02-2012, 11:11 PM

Imo i chose to go with BMR. I couldnt be more happier with my decision. If check out my thread, i went adj. Pan hard bar, lca, adj. Torgue arm, strut tower bar. Bmr makes some really nice chrome moly equipment. Definitely spend alittle extra on these parts, and you feel glad that you did, or you just be spending more in the long run.