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Old 12-03-2016, 09:47 PM   #1
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Gears and converter question

Building a 355 for my wife's 86 trans am that she blew up, the kit Im using is calling for a 3000 stall. Most converters I see are 3000-3500 stall speed, the rear has some pretty tall gears, I believe that they are 2:73. I plan on swapping the rear with a stock 10 bolt with 3:42 gears from a formula parts car that I have. What effect will either sets of gears have on the stall speed of the converter. What would happen if I just used the stock converter? I plan on t56 swapping it later on just want the car to run decent, not going to be raced much if at all.
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Old 12-05-2016, 07:41 PM   #2
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If there's a larger cam, it may push with a stock converter.
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Old 12-05-2016, 08:24 PM   #3
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Steeper gears will load the converter a lot more than proper gears would.

Whats your redline and where is peak HP predicted?
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:19 PM   #4
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Motor is a 10:1 355 with an edelbrock top end kit max rpm is 6500 so im assuming that the peak would be close maybe 6000-6200. Im not looking for fastest times or anything just trying to make a decent driving car, it will hardly be raced. Dont want to swap the motor then have it be un-driveable because of the stock converter and gears.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2098/10002/-1
Cam Spec
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan.../7102/10002/-1
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Old 12-07-2016, 05:40 PM   #5
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Honestly? Run a smaller cam. You'll be happier with the way it drives on the street. Consider a hydraulic roller if it's in the budget; less chances of issues with lobe wiping with the currently available engine oil.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:26 PM   #6
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Honestly? Run a smaller cam. You'll be happier with the way it drives on the street. Consider a hydraulic roller if it's in the budget; less chances of issues with lobe wiping with the currently available engine oil.
Unless he owns it already, yeah. The Edelbrock grinds have been "old" for a while as well.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:53 PM   #7
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Unless he owns it already, yeah. The Edelbrock grinds have been "old" for a while as well.
It came as a complete kit, it works. This motor is just to get the car running hold her over until I can tackle the ls1/t56 swap.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:54 PM   #8
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Honestly? Run a smaller cam. You'll be happier with the way it drives on the street. Consider a hydraulic roller if it's in the budget; less chances of issues with lobe wiping with the currently available engine oil.
Its a weekend driver, just want it to be fun to hold her over. Ill run the proper oil needed for the flat tappet cam.
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Old 12-08-2016, 07:49 PM   #9
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Its a weekend driver, just want it to be fun to hold her over. Ill run the proper oil needed for the flat tappet cam.
Amsoil Z-rod, after break in of course.
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Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

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Old 12-08-2016, 07:50 PM   #10
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Amsoil Z-rod, after break in of course.
Any reason why you prefer that over VR1?
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Old 12-08-2016, 08:10 PM   #11
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Any reason why you prefer that over VR1?
No real reason other than I know the amsoil is designed specifically for flat tappet street cars. although I am not sure racing specific oil had the right additive packs for a street car. I remember reading something a few years ago but I don't remember anymore. Plus VR1 is non-synth I think.
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The looser the waistband, the deeper the quicksand. Or so I have read.

Feather-light suspension, Konis just couldn't hold. I'm so glad I took a look inside your showroom doors.

Hey everybody, it's good to have you on the Baba-too-da-ba-too-ba-ba-buh-doo-ga-ga-bop-a-dop

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Old 12-09-2016, 07:16 PM   #12
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Here's the thing:

If he's stuck running the stock converter and gears with the motor as is, it'll drive like crap. Won't idle worth a damn, no vacuum for brakes, pushing at idle, etc.

If there's no budget for a converter and gear swap, a different cam is a cheaper alternative to keep the car driveable and fun.
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Old 12-18-2016, 06:36 PM   #13
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Picked up a tci 3000-3500 stall with lockup. Only thing left is to swap the engine...
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