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Old 03-04-2012, 04:22 PM   #1
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LS1 Heads/Cam Build

so the time has come. bottem end issue has been resolved and now its time to to start doin the Cam/Top end. ive been echanging PMs with a few members, but figured it be easier to have all info in 1 thread. so lets start...

Things i will need off the off the top of my head, please add whatever may be missing.

Heads(Got)
Cam
Timing Set
Pushrods
Lifters
Gaskets
Hardware(ARP stuff, right?)

i know im missing things, so lay it on me.

now come questions...

CAMSHAFT- car is going to be one of my daily Driven cars, so i dont want to have to worry about stalling out and not running, id like to be able to go and start my car everymorning and drive work. any recomendations for my cam? Heads are milled .030 with oversize intake and exhaust valves. dual rate springs good for up to a .625 lift.

TIMING- Comp Cams double roller set good? im on the verge of purchasing one off a member

PUSHRODS- since heads are milled, im gunna have to measure them so i know lengths. Comp Cams make ones to desired length correct ?

LIFTERS- Original Plan was LS7 lifters and Trays. But i have heard a both good and bad things about them, so what expirience do you guys have? am i going to be good with the LS7 units? because it would really help a lot not spending $450+ on Lifters...

GASKETS- Felpro Gasket kit, any objections?

more questions...

INJECTORS? upgrading them would be a wise choice correct? how do i go about choosing the right injector?

Oil Pump? Do i need a upgraded one of these?


thanks pretty much all i can think of right now... any help is greatly appriciated, also any added info is awesome.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:49 PM   #2
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Injectors are a must. I got the gm h/c gaskets and bolt kit from ws6 store and they had an option of upgrading to arp. Might as well do a water pump as well. Oil pump is a must.

What heads did you you go with?
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #3
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I run, er ran LS7 lifters with no issue, spinning prob more than you will be and prob be running em in the new bullet as well.

Pending your power levels, you can have my ford 30# injectors, just send em out to be flow matched and cleaned.

Otherwise, yea, measure you PR, Kirk is pretty good at doing the math to get a general idea and then you go from there with the checker. ARP is pretty FTW, so get that.
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
I run, er ran LS7 lifters with no issue, spinning prob more than you will be and prob be running em in the new bullet as well.

Pending your power levels, you can have my ford 30# injectors, just send em out to be flow matched and cleaned.

Otherwise, yea, measure you PR, Kirk is pretty good at doing the math to get a general idea and then you go from there with the checker. ARP is pretty FTW, so get that.
not lookin for any "crazy power", so i may be good with 30s. were would i send em to get em matched and cleaned?
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:38 PM   #5
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New Era Performance in NY
http://www.neweraperformanceparts.co...d=94&Itemid=54
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Old 03-04-2012, 05:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTb1ow View Post
^Thats where I sent mine, turn around was about 10 days. You would be fine with svo 30#, which are 36# at ls1 fuel pressure.

I pieced together the gaskets and head bolts separately instead of the gm kit to run cometic 0.040 gaskets. the smaller you want the chambers to be the more they have to mill off the heads per volume. meaning you will gain a little more ptv clearance by running a thinner gasket than simply having the heads milled down to compensate. the cometic gaskets cost more, but worth it imo.

I have a pushrod length checker if you want to borrow it next time you come down.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:41 PM   #7
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What heads are they? What do they flow? That will help in trying to match a cam.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil View Post
^Thats where I sent mine, turn around was about 10 days. You would be fine with svo 30#, which are 36# at ls1 fuel pressure.

I pieced together the gaskets and head bolts separately instead of the gm kit to run cometic 0.040 gaskets. the smaller you want the chambers to be the more they have to mill off the heads per volume. meaning you will gain a little more ptv clearance by running a thinner gasket than simply having the heads milled down to compensate. the cometic gaskets cost more, but worth it imo.

I have a pushrod length checker if you want to borrow it next time you come down.
Well the heads are already milled?

Im not gunna skimp out were $ needs to be used, spending the extra on the gaskets is np.

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What heads are they? What do they flow? That will help in trying to match a cam.
243s. i left promar engine builders a message friday to see if they have a flow bench to see what they do, so hopefully tommaro they get back to me. ive been meaning to get em tested but ive gotten side tracked
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:22 PM   #9
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As far as the cam goes what route are you looking to go? Shelf cam or have something custom ground from any number of companies...

Gaskets, Every gasket I have replaced has been with felpro gaskets and have never had a leak, though Ive never used their head gaskets so I cant help ya there.

ARP everything. Refer to BLS when you think ARP isnt necessary.

The comp cams timing set is a good piece. Saw the one you are looking at buying last week and its a nice piece.

One thing I havent seen you mention is a fuel pump. Definitley would recommend at least a Walbro 255. Aeromotive also makes a nice unit but is more $$.
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:57 PM   #10
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http://www.njfboa.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55547

Check my old suggestion thread out. Pretty similar
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:58 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmanvette75 View Post
As far as the cam goes what route are you looking to go? Shelf cam or have something custom ground from any number of companies...
Theres really no reason to get a custom cam unless you want to spend an extra $50 to feel special. You should be able to find every cam imaginable in aftermarket shelf cams for lsx.

Quote:
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Gaskets, Every gasket I have replaced has been with felpro gaskets and have never had a leak, though Ive never used their head gaskets so I cant help ya there.
I would use multi-layer steel gaskets for both the heads and headers. Ive tried both (felpro) and had much better results with MLS, plus they can be re-used. Head gaskets, waterpump gaskets (2), front cover gasket, front crank seal, and oil pump o ring. Thats everything you need if you want to piece it together

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmanvette75 View Post
ARP everything. Refer to BLS when you think ARP isnt necessary.
No. ARP head bolts is all you need from them. Get a factory crank bolt, some SS bolts from home depot for the headers, and re-use everything else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmanvette75 View Post
The comp cams timing set is a good piece. Saw the one you are looking at buying last week and its a nice piece.
LS2 timing chain is all you need, and it will fit your stock ls1 timing set. At $40 its much cheaper than the comp cams set.

Quote:
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One thing I havent seen you mention is a fuel pump. Definitley would recommend at least a Walbro 255. Aeromotive also makes a nice unit but is more $$.
Pretty sure this was mentioned in his other thread.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:04 PM   #12
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If you need I have the longer arp crank bolt to help for reinstall and yhe crank pulley tool for when it comes time
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:12 PM   #13
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No. ARP head bolts is all you need from them. Get a factory crank bolt, some SS bolts from home depot for the headers, and re-use everything else.
Reason?
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:25 PM   #14
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Reason?
Cheaper and just as effective for h/c power is the main reason. Second reasoning is that it was too short to engage enough threads when torquing my U/D crank pulley, but that might just be an isolated issue to the pulley I have.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:46 PM   #15
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Cheaper and just as effective for h/c power is the main reason. Second reasoning is that it was too short to engage enough threads when torquing my U/D crank pulley, but that might just be an isolated issue to the pulley I have.
Stock bolt is TTY, no?

Edit: When you say "too short to engage enough threads when torquing" do you mean to pull it on or after the pulley is installed?
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:24 AM   #16
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Stock bolt is TTY, no?
yes, it is torque to yield and 1 time use.

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Edit: When you say "too short to engage enough threads when torquing" do you mean to pull it on or after the pulley is installed?
After the pulley was fully seated, it was still too short. I ended up using a 120mm length bolt.
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:44 PM   #17
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anyone got a link to one of these already put together kits with all the gaskets and hardware ? i was scanning ws6store but couldnt find the one with an option for ARP stuff
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:57 PM   #18
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http://texas-speed.com/p-173-basic-h...asket-kit.aspx
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
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APR long n short bolt kit, but how do i know what gaskets mick beggs needs ?
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Old 03-06-2012, 09:25 PM   #20
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APR long n short bolt kit, but how do i know what gaskets mick beggs needs ?
whats the chamber volume after milling your heads?
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:19 AM   #21
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well there stock heads milled .030...
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Old 03-07-2012, 06:27 AM   #22
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Stock what casting? I thought you said the valves were oversized - were the chambers ported at all to unshroud the valves?
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:13 AM   #23
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Post #8 says they are 243s...
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkEvil View Post
Stock what casting? I thought you said the valves were oversized - were the chambers ported at all to unshroud the valves?
Quote:
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Post #8 says they are 243s...
yea. i have the papers at home with all the headwork, i just dont know off hand. also gettin them flowed friday !
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:21 AM   #25
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Then have the chambers cc'ed
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