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Old 06-12-2013, 08:05 PM   #1
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stubborn brake bracket bolts..

i checked my rear brakes recently and decided time to do new pads and rotors. I get into it today pop the wheels off and the caliper slid off fine but got to the brackets and the two bolts behind there wouldn't budge. so i hit it with dw40 and let it sit..try it again..still wont budge. hit with a hammer a few times to loosen it up a bit..dw40 again and still nothing.

finally I got the torch out and began to heat up the bolts..heated it up for a good 1-2 minutes...tried and still nothing. tried this numerous times and still nothing. these brakes haven't been changed in a few years since before I got the car...i don't know the history with them. I'm a do it yourself guy and not a mechanic so my tools are limited but has anyone ever had a problem like this? if so how did you get the bolts out without destroying parts? maybe I can get some advice here before my last resort which is bring it to a shop. thanks for any help in advance

Jon
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:29 PM   #2
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Most people are going to tell you that wd40 is not a penetrating oil, get something better, like PB blaster and soak it frequently for a few days. After that I got nothing
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:38 PM   #3
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I'm not familiar with that..is it available at advanced or autozone?
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:39 PM   #4
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Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.

If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:40 PM   #5
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It doesnt have to be that brand, just get something better than WD40. An actual penetrating oil product, even though WD40 says penetrates
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #6
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PB Blaster and a breaker bar...
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:03 PM   #7
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got it ill take a trip tomorrow to get penetrating oil and a breaker bar. yeah it's a propane torch I didn't know there would be a difference.
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Old 06-13-2013, 07:12 AM   #8
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1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:05 AM   #9
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Kroil if you don't need to spray it, PB if you do.

If you were using a propane torch it was not hot enough.
Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:08 AM   #10
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Do you think the spray PB works better than the spray Kroil?
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:23 AM   #11
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Serious question.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:34 AM   #12
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I was curious as well. PB can definitely out distance aerokroil, but kroil does come in spray can form as well as jugs of awesomeness.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:35 AM   #13
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Again, serious.

I didn't know they made spray Kroil. I have the gallon can of liquid.

In my time working on heavily rusted junk I noticed that Kroil in a squeeze lab bottle works better than PB sprayed from an aerosol can. Seems ridiculous but it's true in my case.
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:40 AM   #14
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http://www.kanolabs.com/

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Old 06-13-2013, 09:42 AM   #15
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:56 AM   #16
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1/2" drive and maybe a pipe to get some leverage. Sometimes GM throws loctite on the caliper mounts and they can suck.
I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:14 AM   #17
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I was just going to post the exact same thing. I usually use a breaker bar and a 3' length of pipe for more leverage. Some cars are worse than others, had a really difficult time with my brothers Grand Prix a few years ago. I would not recommend this but I ended up lowering the car on the breaker bar just to pop the bolts loose.
lol howd u do that? put the breaker bar where the wheel well ends then lower the hydraulic jack?
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:35 PM   #18
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Yea pretty much, I was in my parents garage and didn't have enough clearance for the long pipe since I was working with a jack and stands. I have a compressor now so hopefully i never need to try that again.
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Old 06-13-2013, 01:22 PM   #19
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I see I see I may need to resort to that for desperate measures lol. I bought pb blaster and was looking for a 1/2 drive breaker bar. was wondering if anyone in the Somerset or warren county area has one. they're kind of pricey for me to use for just 4 bolts. I can give collateral in cash or anything of equal value if you have any issues lending to strangers.
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:53 PM   #20
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Could go this route:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

I have one of these, works well.
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:21 PM   #21
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Could go this route:

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-driv...bar-67933.html

I have one of these, works well.
the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:07 PM   #22
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the bar inside a 4th gen door is the perfect companion to that. I highly suggest everyone grab one from a 4th gen with a bad door
ill be selling bad doors for $10 each now
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:40 PM   #23
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Always generous, V.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:11 PM   #24
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are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:50 PM   #25
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are you sure you are loosening the bolts and not tightening them ?
haha yes im sure.

i ended up getting a breaker bar from harbor freight tools i cant believe how low the prices there are. got pb blaster too going to get into working on it in a few minutes.
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