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Old 01-19-2021, 12:16 PM   #251
sweetbmxrider
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Could mount the switch to catch the gas pedal inside the car as well
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Old 01-20-2021, 10:33 PM   #252
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that is very true, that would be hidden for sure. good thinking!


I didn't get home today till 9:15pm, so I missed the Atco zoom meeting, but I see that jim said it was postponed. Cool

-when I did get home it was awesome to see a UPS package arrived with my new gearset from Moser/US Gear. It was scheduled to arrive tomorrow, but I am relieved that Moser had a set in stock. Amazon gave me a $50 gift card for their error,. The set I got from Moser is not ISO-treated, and that is fine; my current 3.55 gears are also not treated.

Anyways, If I get some time Friday I plan to remove the rear from the car and hopefully get the new 3.91 gearset installed on Sunday.


















I am excite!
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Old 01-22-2021, 08:11 PM   #253
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Had a few hours this afternoon to remove the rear from the car. All went just fine, no issues except the driveshaft's u-joint nuts were more stubborn than they needed to be; locktite red I used last time. everything else came out/apart real easy.












That white suds/liquid on the internals is just spray-degreaser that looks weird on camera




Hoping to do the ring/pinion removal and install on sunday afternoon. It will be my first time.
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Old 01-23-2021, 12:49 PM   #254
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Remember the ring gear bolts are reverse thread AFAIK
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Old 01-24-2021, 08:26 PM   #255
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I thought they would be also, my old 3.73 richmond gears on my old 10 bolt were reverse thread. These were not though.

Today I got pretty far, and I think I am super close to being able to button up the housing and get it back under the car.

existing 3.55 gearset removal:








3.91 install:

Starting with the pinion's rotational drag, I have it set somewhere between the 14-18 inch pounds range. not break away torque, but rotational. this is what moser and US gears calls for.

see video (sorry, hard to film and turn at the same time) the photo below was not taken at desired/proper drag, but its the only photo I had that was not blurry. video is kinda better...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54_jH_rWrfg








reused the pinion races and pinion bearings. Moser said i could and should do this since my 3.55 gearset was so new and only had 6,000 miles on it since March 2018. If something went wrong, I had new bearings to use, but all went well and the new bearings are in a box still. I used a 3shim combination to get a total of 0.0425" on top of the solid pinion spacer. I did put in a new pinion seal.











Used the existing carrier bearings and races also. Adjusted the sim packs on each side, and the carrier is SNUG in the housing. Can not be pulled out by hand, need a pry bar to gently coax it out. Main caps are torqued down, but not lock-tited yet just in case anyone sees something that I need to adjust.

Backlash is right around 0.0090 and 0.010. This is in spec, but the only thing I notice is a "knock/thunk" from the teeth contacting eachother. I am ASSUMING this is normal on a bone-dry set of new gears. You can hear the noise in the video. Is this normal for a dry gearset?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oByzPG-Sb24



desired pattern chart:


current COAST tooth pattern:


current DRIVE tooth pattern:


It took me about 4 times taking the carrier out and re-shimming it to get the current backlash and contact pattern. Might have initially used too much yellow paste, as it got everywhere so I had to do a cleanup of stuff and re-try it.


So, thats where I am at. if the pattern is as good as it needs to be, GREAT. and, if that clunk noise while checking backlash is normal for a new set of unlubricated gears, then that is also good.
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Old 01-26-2021, 08:28 PM   #256
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Pretty much almost finished...









Got everything buttoned up after making one small shim adjustment to the pinion's solid spacer. It was just a bit too tight, now it is perfect for rotational drag. Put the housing cover on, added the recommended NON-SYNTHETIC Lucas 80-90 gear oil and tightened up the main cap support bolts in the cover. Hung the axle back in the car and got everything back into place.
- I am seriously debating removing the emergency/parking brake cables and assembly from the rear discs. I never use the brake, and they are always a pain in the butt when I go to get the calipers mounted. Always a hassle. Might remove them and leave the handle inside the car (for aesthetics).





Did a very brief test after bolting on the wheels and bleeding the brakes. This was NOT to break the rear in, but just to make sure I didn't hear or see any odd noises from the rear, driveshaft, brakes, or anything.



Short video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_ibYF7_vYo


I will get the car out soon to do a road test and break in the gears according to what Moser and US Gear recommends:




Then I will get under the car, wipe everything down clean, lube the suspension, and check the torque on all the bolts/fasteners. i also want to check/adjust my driveline angle too. That should do it!
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:29 PM   #257
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Looks great, I'm anxious to find out how you like the new gear ratio. Too bad NJ just dumped a god awful amount of salt on the roads
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Old 02-03-2021, 05:43 PM   #258
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I got smart/lucky a few days ago when I decided to do the break-in and road test of the new gearset, because now after this massive snow storm, it is really unlikely that I will have the car out for a few weeks. Here in my hometown we got 28-30" of snowfall. WILD

Anyway, when I did the road test I could definitively tell that the acceleration was better. It gave me a big smile when I did a few short "pulls" after completing the break in session. This gear swap was a great idea. I will patiently wait until Island opens in April to get a true real-world timeslip to measure the actual improvement in acceleration.
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Old 02-14-2021, 08:26 PM   #259
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Took the car out for a few miles on Friday despite the salt on the roads. Wanted to check a few things over and I knew I would be fully cleaning the underside this weekend anyways. Got on the throttle a few times and I am very happy with how much better the acceleration is.



Spent a good amount of time making sure my driveline angles were all good and the pinion angle also. I am happy with it. Used the Tremec app and the iphone angle finder apps because that magnetic angel-finder from home depot just wasn't precise enough for me. I wanted the transmission to point downward a little bit more and since it is not the time to build a custom dropped trans cross-member, I built some shims to put in-between the body and the cross-member out of 1/8" aluminum plate. This gave me the downward angle I was looking for, for now. . Also swapped in a 45 tooth speedometer drive gear so that the speedometer reads correctly now with the 3.91 rear ratio.





those numbers above wont make sense to you unless you use the app

these might make more sense though.. but please note, these photos were taken (and posted) not in order. this is just showing what my figured I was working with were at the time.




Hit every polyurethane and roto-joint with the clear marine grade grease. Used regular grease on all the steering components. I always underestimate how messy that clear grease gets. After everything else was done underneath I gave the underside a wipe down and got everything cleaned. Checked over many nuts and bolts, and as it sits, everything underneath the car is pretty much complete and ready to drive for the year.


















thats it for now, if anything under the car grabs your attention (good or bad), just shout it out to me. hold all comments about the exhaust, that will be next winters project.
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Old 02-16-2021, 04:40 PM   #260
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Those double-adjustable rear control arms, when you put them together did you grease or anti-seize the threads? If you do any amount of wet weather driving it's a fair bet that those will rust up, happened to me.
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Old 02-16-2021, 07:00 PM   #261
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So clean. Very nice!
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Old 02-16-2021, 08:20 PM   #262
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Bishop, yup I always use the silver anti-sieze on the chassis parts. I paint the threads and then get everything adjusted. I then wipe off the excess with a rag and after that then I hit the aluminum with some 0 grade steel wool to get them clean looking. As I am sure you are aware, the anti-sieze is a magnet for debris, so the less excess of it exposed, the less gunk will live up in the exposed threads. However, if you meant when i initially installed them several years ago, I know I used some antisieze, but I am not sure that the entire length of the threads that are "encapsulated" int he tube were liberally coated. Do you mean that moisture got into the tube part of the bar and caused rust to the threads inside the tube?

Thanks Brian. it will get dirty soon, in fact I took it out for a few miles today to check over the adjustments and for any driveline noises and vibrations. none existed, but I was only able to get up to about 60 mph on the roads today. Lots of snow melt puddles in the road that I could not avoid, so I splashed some of the underside up already. Gave the car a much needed wash today, which it hasn't been washed since November. With everything now good underneath, I will go along and use a paint-marker on the chassis adjustments and some of the underside bolts.

I also changed out the magnefine in-line magnetic transmission filter too, but did not cut open the old one yet. The fluid that dripped out from it was very clean and cherry red. nice. I am ready for driving season, having to wait stinks. Still about 1.5 months before island is open. bummer
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