Body Harness

[LS1ow]

are body harnesses the same from a LS car to a V6 car ? also are all 98-02 body harnessess created equal ?

[LS1ow]

not even a troll ?

[BonzoHansen]

You've barely waited 8 hours. During work hours. Settle down. If you have time look for wiring diagrams, try the auto zone site I found diagrams there in the past.

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by BonzoHansen

You've barely waited 8 hours. During work hours. Settle down. If you have time look for wiring diagrams, try the auto zone site I found diagrams there in the past.

normally even my legit threads are blown to pieces in minutes.

ill check autozone now

[sweetbmxrider]

Are you speaking strictly 98-02 cars? What portion of what body harness? Come at me bro! A little clearer....

[LTb1ow]

Do not already have a full working LS(something) car's harness?

Pull it out, swap dashes and stop whining. Get to it chap

[LS1ow]

Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider

Are you speaking strictly 98-02 cars? What portion of what body harness? Come at me bro! A little clearer....

as you know im trying to swap the ls in the lt. many are saying swap the body harness instead of just having the engine harness modded. me being me, let my dad scrap the car with some of the underdash wiring in it. therefor, i need to either A. Mod the Harness. B. Buy another harness thatll work.

Originally Posted by LTs1ow

Do not already have a full working LS(something) car's harness?

Pull it out, swap dashes and stop whining. Get to it chap

see prior info, do not have complete underdash harness... and my dash was cracked so i would need a new one anyway. besides, T/A dash is nicer

[LTb1ow]

I mean the dash cluster, but I digress, will look some tonight

[LS1ow]

im going to start a thread either tonight or tmmr about the whole process.

[BonzoHansen]

Originally Posted by LS1ow

normally even my legit threads are blown to pieces in minutes.

threads in tech and such will not be 'blown to pieces'.

[LTb1ow]

LETS BLOW DIS UP!!!!!


"This is a list of things that I needed to help me build my Harness:

All Data Printouts of the Connector Pin Diagrams-
Under Dash: C210, C220, C230 Connectors for LT1, C220, C230 Connectors for LS1 Harness
Wheel Well: C100, C105 Connectors for LT1, C100, C101, C105 Connectors for LS1 Harness
LS1 PCM Connector Pin Diagrams
Extra 3-Wire Connector identical to the TPS Sensor Connector
Extra Male Connector of Black 4-Pin Harness Connector (C210) under LT1 Dash
Extra Wire to extend some of the existing Wires
Electrical Tools
Butt Connectors
Electrical Tape
Soldering Tools if you want to do that

To build this Harness some of the Wires in the Connectors have to be taken out and moved around on the Harness to match it properly to the Car to work, and some Connectors have to be added, hence the extra ones above. I re-pinned all the Harness Connectors to match the Car perfectly.

*Throughout this when I say that the Wire has to go to the Dash Connectors or Wheel Well Connectors, that means that you have to line it up and match it to the Wire on the Connectors that the Wire is going to.


HARNESS MODS

I started by stripping down the Harness I got and looking at the Harness and figuring out what wires were what..and there is pretty much everything there that the LT1 has already.

*Here is a quick note: Cruise Control and the Fuel System Wiring in the LT1 Cars are their own independent Systems and do not have to be messed with.* Keep this in mind, most people have a mis-conception about this.

Here is the necessary wiring pretty much once you figure out everything in the Harness:

Starter:
Big Purple Wire that is in the Harness near the Connectors on the Wheel Well. I moved that and extended it to the Connecters under the Dash, and it lines up on the Black 4-Pin Connector(C210). This is why you will need the extra Male C-210 Connector for this.

Fuel Pump Relay Ground:
This is a Black Wire that is on that C210 Connector on the Car. This Wire is in the Harness, and it has to be matched to this one. It sometimes is referred to as the Sender Ground. Put this Wire into the Male C210 Connector with the Starter Wire.

Fuel Pump Relay Power:
This Wire is in the LS1 Harness and it has to be lined up with the Wire in the LT1 Dash Harness. This is the Wire that comes from the PCM that powers the Fuel Pump Relay. For the 1999-2002 LS1 Harness this wire is PCM RED #9, and goes to C101, Pin D.
There is also another wire called Theft Deterrent Fuel Enable, this is for VATS Fuel Control. This one is located in PCM RED #30 in the LS1 Harness, and goes to C230, Pin E in the stock 1999-2002 LS1 Harness. If VATS is disabled, this wire can be removed.

Speedometer, Tachometer, Oil Pressure:
Find these Wires in the Harness and line these up with the ones on the Car.

*The next couple of wiring modifications are for the Gauges and to make the Harness work for the Car's stock Gauge Cluster.
The reason you have to do this and the reason this works is cause the F-bodies that are 1998 and back use Analog Gauges, the 1999 and up use a BCM(Body Control Module) that sends one signal to the Gauges and it breaks it down digitally from there. So on a Harness that is 1999 and up, you have to wire in these extra Wires.

Temp Sensor signal to Gauge(1999 and up LS1 Harness):
Get a 1998 F-body LS1 Temp Sensor(GM Part #12551708) and use the 3-Pin Connector identical to the one that is on the Throttle Position Sensor.

Remove the current Connector and get the extra 3-Wire Connector that is like the TPS Connector. Wire in the bottom Wires(Yellow and Black) on the same sides that they are on, and then the third wire is the wire that goes to your Temp Gauge, run the wire to the Connectors under the Dash. I currently have mine setup like that, and I have no problems, workes perfectly.

Alternator signal to Gauge:
**Definate for a 1999 and up LS1 Harness, not sure about a 1998, never had looked at one, but this may be something to check into if you have a 1998 Harness, look for an Alternator or Volt Meter Signal Wire on any of the Dash Connectors.**

Follow the Red Wire that comes from the Alternator and eventually goes to the PCM Connectors. Splice into this and run the wire to the Connectors under the Dash.

OBDII Diagnostic Port Wiring:
My Car is a 1995 Model, it had the OBDII Port in it from the Factory, and it was already wired. I traced the Wires and they were all there from the Factory.
In the LS1 Harness is whats called the Serial Data Wire, it's a Tan or Green Wire, this is the Wire that is for the Diagnostic and Tuning of the PCM. The 1999 and up Cars had 2 of these wires, one was for the PCM, the other was the Wire that went to the Gauges that carried 4 different Gauge Signals. You will need the Tuning one ONLY and can get rid of the other one, the correct Wire is PCM BLUE CONNECTOR, PIN 58. When you find this Wire, it needs to go to the Dash Wires.

This is the proper Pinouts for the 16-Pin OBDII Connector:
Pin 2: Diagnostic Signal Wire, this is the Serial Data Wire from the PCM, match this to the Dash Connectors and with the Harness.
Pin 4: Ground
Pin 5: Ground
Pin 16: Constant Power from Battery

Various Power Wires:
Throughout the Harness there are many Power Wires, all of them are Circuits that need to be powered. On the Wheel Well Connectors are pretty where they all come into the Harness at. They come from the Fuse Box.

I re-built my Fuse Box cause after matching the ones that I could match up, I found that the LS1 Harness has 2 more Circuits that require power than the LT1 Car. Here is how I did it..

PCM Power:
This is an Orange Wire in the Wheel Well Connectors, this is a Fused Circuit, it's a Constant Power Wire off of the Battery. They go to PCM BLUE #20 & #57.

IGN(Ignition) Power:
This is a Pink Wire that is in the Wheel Well Connectors, this is a Power Wire that is on a Fused Circuit coming from the Fuse Box. It goes through the Harness and powers PCM BLUE #19 when the Key is turned on.

INJ(Injector) Power, Bank 1 and 2:
Both of these are Pink Power Wires that are in the Wheel Well Connectors, they are Fused Power Wires that come from the Fuse Box. They also power the Coils.

MAF, O2's:
This is a Pink Power Wire that is in the LS1 Harness that powers the MAF Sensor and the O2 Sensor Circuits. I had to make an extra Fused Circuit for these in the Fuse Box, and get the power over to the Wheel Well Connector.

Transmission:
This is a Pink Power Wire that is in the LS1 Harness that powers the 4L60E Transmission Circuits. I made this one an extra circuit in the Fuse Box aswell. I re-wired this Wire in the Harness to power the Reverse Lockout Solenoid, and the Reverse Light Switch when I converted it over to the T56 setup.
*I don't know how it's wired in a Factory T56 Harness, but I assume it's similar.

Grounds:
Throughout the Harness there are many Grounds. There is one Ground that is on the Wheel Well Connectors in the LS1 Harness, I traced that and removed it, the grounds that were in the Harness grounded everything that needed to be grounded, and this one wasn't necessary.

There are 3 Grounding Wires that bolt behind the Drivers side Head. I relocated these in the Harness to the Passenger side Head behind the Oil Dip Stick Tube.


All this mentioned here is pretty much the essential stuff to get it running. After I had all this done and everything properly matched, I had a bunch of extra Wires. I kept the necessary things to make the Engine run. Some people may want some of the other little things that are in the Harness, they are not hard to wire, but I took them out to make things easy and simple.

I didn't need any of the Air Conditioning Wiring, so all that stuff got deleted out, as well as the Low Oil Light, Low Coolant Light, all that stuff was taken out too. The Cruise Control is in the LS1 Harness as well as some stuff for the Fuel System, that got deleted too. I also took out the AIR, EGR, TCS, Rear O2's, EVAP, and all the extra 5V Refrence Wires that were all over the place. I had a pile of extra Wires when I was done.

To correctly do this, I suggest following every Wire that you want to remove directly to the PCM Connector and finding out what it is first. That is where the PCM Connector Pin Diagrams will help. Some of the Wires will be spliced into other ones in the Harness also, clip them as close as you can and tape up the spot where you clipped them to make sure it's clean.

I also re-wired alot of things in my Fuse Box and cleaned it up, aswell as wiring in Manual Fan Switches for a backup..they still run normally and are controlled by the LS1 PCM.

This swap wasn't that hard to do, just time consuming.

That and if you know what you are looking at and can use what I said here to relate it to what you have..you will see that this is a pretty generic guide to swap a LS into just about anything..I just did it for a LT1-specific F-body swap.
I gave the basics here to get started..as in identified the Powers, Grounds, and the essentials inbetween. If you know how to supply power to a Fuse Box and can integrate that into a Harness..then you can build your own Harness without problems. "

[LTb1ow]

MORE BLOWING DIS UP!

"My swap, 99-02 A4 harness to 95 A4 LT1 (bare bones, no emissions or a/c):

Re-pinned LS1 harness for swap to LT1
C100
A Same pnk- pwr feed from injector fuse #9 Bank 1 (2,3,5,8)
B C101 B pnk- pwr feed from injector fuse #10 Bank 2 (1,4,6,7) (moved from c105 B for simplicity)
C
D C101 G orn- pwr feed from PCM fuse #8 to PCM
E c230 K dk grn serial data signal (moved from c105 E for simplicity, was tan on LT1)
F
G Same pwr feed from ignition fuse #11 (4L60E)
H Same dk blu coolant fan 2 & 3
J Same dk grn coolant fan 1
K

C105
A
B moved to c100
C
D
E moved to c100
F
G
H

C210 (LS1 Does not have this connector)
A Purple wire to starter solenoid
B C230 G Grey fuel pump ground (was blk on LT1)
C
D

C220 White
A generator feed to gauge cluster (spliced into alt wire for voltmeter)
B C220 A tan Oil pressure feed to gauge cluster
C (oil level was eliminated)
D
E
F
G C220 K dk grn/wht vehicle speed signal
H
J C101 D dk grn/wht fuel pump relay control
K Run extra wire off 1998 coolant temp sender

C230 Blue
A
B Same MIL/service engine soon indicator
C
D C105 G wht tach signal
E (unnecessary if VATS is disabled)
F
G C101 E pnk Power to PCM, on LT1 - feed from PCM ignition fuse #5
H C220 D ppl TCC/cruise brake switch
J C220 H PNP switch signal, on LT1 - Park/Neutral feed from trans position switch
K"

[LTb1ow]

MOAR!!!


Red Connector
9 DK/GRN FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL = not sure

You need this one, it controls the fuel pump relay

10 WHT ENG SPEED (TACH) = goes to Tach
13 CRUISE ENABLE= not needed
17 DRK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL = not sure
30 VDT FUEL ENABLE = VATTS
33 DK BLUE ENG COOLING FAN RELAY 2&3 CONTROL = to cooling fan relay 2
34 EVAP PURGE VALVE CONTROL= not needed
36 AIR PUMP RELAY CONTROL= not needed
37 DK GRN CRUISE CONTROL INHIBIT= not needed
43 DK GRN/WHT A/C CLUTCH RELAY RELAY CONTROL=not sure

You don't need any A/C stuff unless you plan on running A/C and want it controlled by the PCM

45 WHT EVAP CANISTER VENT VALVE CONTROL= not needed
46 BRN/WHT MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT CONTROL= MIL ck eng light
50 DK GRN/WHT VEHICLE SPEED OUTPUT CIRCUIT= to speedo
17 DRK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL=not sure
53 GRA/BLK SPARK RETARD CONTROL=not sure

Originally went to the EBTCM (anti lock brakes/traction control, not needed

54 PPL FUEL LEVEL SENSOR SIGNAL= not needed
64 DK GREEN FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR= not needed

Blue Connector
19 PNK IGNITION POS VOLT= to switched 12v
20 ORG BAT POS VOLT=to 12v
23 GRA FUEL SENSOR /FUEL TANK SENDER GROUND== not needed
33 PPL TCC BRAKE SWITCH= to brake switch
34 ORG/BLK PNP WITCH= to park neutral safety switch
42 COOLING FAN RELAY CONTROL= Cooling fan relay