a good carb shop can handle that no problem. and q jets are more forgiving

@WildBilly

Do you believe that will fix the issue I am having with car losing RPM and engine just cutting out on me like it has. Get rid of the QQ carb with the vacuum hoses that are missing and get a Summit Racing Street & Strip® Carburetors SUM-M08600VS and a Summit Racing® Blueprinted HEI Distributors SUM-850001R for my 1986 305 V8 and it should fix that issue? I hope that is the case. Because that reasonable to have my Camaro working.


I'm able to deal with a 305 V8 it for right now since I don't have a lot of money right now so just having it running is main goal right now. Then body work getting rid of what little rust is on then, Electrical and interior, then, then engine swap and paint later if it needs it.

So far 4 people said keep the 305 V8, 2 said drop a 350 in it, 1 said do a LSX swap and 1 said swap a LT1 in it.

But I know nothing about work on cars so how would I know how to do any of these with out help or hiring to have it installed professionally but that cost more money.

BBC swap.

/thread

Cheapest way to get it running? Fix all vac lines and probably gonna need a new carb. I've used these guys with great success. www.guaranteedcarburetors.com

Actually it was the same style carb as yours. Comes bench tested and are tuned with a warranty. Literally slap it on hook up all the lines and turn the key. Done.

I'm noticing that the Stock QQ carb is be brought up a lot of online as the issue or people replaced on 305. I can't say that's it since I have no clue it the Vac lines because I don't understand that set up what so ever and if any are missing.

But I'm really hoping its something cheap and simple. that's reasonable for my situation right now. then I will fix up car and maybe do a engine swap later on down the road.

I find most people pull q-jets off otherwise stock or near engines because they are unfamiliar with them, to be nice. Especially the dolts on facebook groups. God there is some serious stupid on facebook groups.

IMO limited funds = limited parts. every part you alter usually requires more related parts. ka-ching.

The $10 question is really is that 305 otherwise good. does it run at all now?

yes, the 305 does run in both normal drive and overdrive but the RPM's go up and go then down and the engine will cut out. But could that have to do with the Vac. hoses missing? So if some one could help me figure that out then I will know if the carb is also the issue but the engine fires up on first turn of key some times I have to pump gas a little but it starts up and runs.

first step, plug all the open vacuum hoses or fittings you see coming off the carb, then let us know if it runs any different. A small set of vacuum fittings and plugs from an auto parts store could go a long way

http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and...ers=4294962335

Where are you from? Myabe some members in that area have some free time one day.

Also I attached a vac diagram for you to use. So you should be able to re route new vac lines using that diagram. You can get everything from a local auto parts store.

@V I did what you suggested I the RPM said still then the battery light came on and went off fast and the RPM decreased like before.

I really just want to get it up and running so I will be able to flush out all the old fluids that are in the car since I bought it and use some performance engine cleaners and new fluids in it so I know what my car has in it but first I need it able to stay running long enough so I can allow it to do that. right now I ether need to pump on gas to start her up sometimes or watch RPM's and if they go to low step on gas. Then now the battery is starting but that could be do to car not running long enough.

Well here is what happens when I did what V said to do 3 new video's check them out!!

https://youtu.be/2gCRvAZ8NTc

https://youtu.be/DjRcTfBwDw4

https://youtu.be/6PBCEXLIE6Q

Performance engine cleaner?

Btw you usually have to pump the gas before you start a carbed engine. Its not efi

Lucas

and I didn't know that I just moved it and I stalled out on me again so I'm not sure what the issue is it vacuum hoses that cause that or what?

Don't use any of that crap.

All I see in those videos is a car that will idle all day. In the second one there is a noise but I can't tell what it is.

Basics. When was the last time it got new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter? How old is the gas in the tank? Is timing correct? I also suspect the carb is pig rich if the ECM is getting bad info, like the missing cts you mentioned earlier.

This cannot be diagnosed via the web, impossible. You need some one who knows about cars to come over and help.

yes, that is true I do need someone who know more about to come look at it. I don't know when the last time any of that was done I just added gas the other day. Someone said if you want to clean the engine just run some premium gas in it does it good once in a while.

Whoever said about that premium gas stop listening to them lol

Sounds healthy for the most part. I would pull a couple plugs out. Chances are it will need plugs wires cap and rotor plus a fuel filter and fresh gas. You would be surprised how much fresh gas will help.

Whoever told you that about premium has no idea what they are talking about. Old wives tale there

Yeah, looks like this car needs a good "baseline".

Dante, if you don't already own one go buy a Chilton's manual for the car. It should explain some basic upkeep tasks in detail. About $20.

I have the Haynes Repair Manual.

Only issue it seems to look like is the Vacuum hoses that were pulled out by guy I bought the car from and also other things he pulled out. also I don't have them so it makes it really annoying to figure out where they go sizes of hoses and length of them. Then where to plug them. If I pulled them out I would know where they go. That's where I need help since the images show me a area but not clear to where they go then I have to see if part is there. She seems to run ok, but engine was really hot didn't seem normal. but then again all the vacuum lines are all blocked off.

So it seems the engine works but vacuum caps are temp fix. Now need to figure out what I need to do. Should I try the basic stuff first like @greenformula92, and @WildBillT said New spark plugs, new plugs wires cap and rotor or new distributor, fuel filter, then add some more fresh gas.

I planned on doing some of that once I was able to stay running. I was going to flush all the fluids, coolant, Oil change, also maybe gas but gas doesn't smell so that means its ok. And maybe charge and clean off any stuff on battery if there is any. Then later I could always flush break fluid, power steering fluid and anything else. Worse case have to also get a new battery.

Only other stuff I can think of is new Carb but would that eliminate that vacuum issue? and plug wires but that I don't think will help right now. But those would be things that you might consider after some one who knows about this car looks at it in person and can tell what the issue is.

Hell if I had the space I would pull the engine out and break it down look at it and clean the block and fix any issues then put it back in also I would be able to work on body and fixing some of the rust. But seeing her running last night felt good :) a sign of hope for this car. But once I went to move he later she started to stalling out again on me. :/
So I'm willing to try anything to fix that issue.

The guys here are saying start with the basics. You can't wish this thing to run better to then replace parts. You replace parts to get it to run better. You will have to use your resources to identify parts, their locations, and their proper connections. Google is always a great help for this. Start with pulling the plugs at least to see what is going on in the combustion chamber.

just bought 8 new spark plugs I will do install tomorrow and see what happens

You know how to set gap?

Normally everything comes pre gapped now. Get with the times bonzo lol j/k

Seriously get a gap gauge and make sure the gap is right on those plugs. IIRC .45 is the gap, they will probably be pregapped to that but you always want to make sure. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

Probably .045.