lol yeah i know.. i checked it before but i didn't know that i had to use the test light on both sides of the fuse. i used a meter on it and the right came up like 13.37 and i didn't try on the left

damn, i guess one of my bulbs are shortening the fuse out, because the fuse blew again.

the fuse is a 20 rite? if it is, put in a 25 or if its a 25 put in a 30..just put in a fuse thats a little bigger then whats there.

its a 20 and it doesn't matter what fuse u put in it will keep burning up if there's a shortage.

when i have a 20 blow i try a 25 and it usually works.

welll if you have a short in a bulb or something it'll always blow a fuse

Pull each bulb, and use your Ohm meter to check continuity from each pin of the bulb socket to chassis ground. You should get a ground on one pin, but not the other.

Whichever bulb socket has continuity to ground on both pins is your winner, and you'll need to trace that circuit's wiring until you find the problem.

a little off point right now, but the coil in the steering column has NOTHING to do with the directionals... replacing that or even touching it in this case would be stupid.

putting a fuse that is "larger" than the one you remove is just asking for trouble....

will do, I'll do that in an hour or so.
iuno somebody told me to do that if the problem still persisted.
yeah i never thought that would be a good idea.

damn, finally fixed the short. whenever I placed my transmission into reverse my fuse would blow. so i then checked the ground it was fine, but when i looked at the reverse lights my passenger side reverse light filament on the bulb was damaged and created a hot wire. so after i replaced it with a new one.. my turn signals finally worked fine. thanks everyone for your help and advice.