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60 bucks for some needles???
geez. |
make your own!!
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/photos-...91_7757554.jpg white is win. it just matches so nice to me and looks really clean. can't wait to order the leds and light em up. |
Looks good. White out?
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no actually i bought "Premium Decor High Gloss waterborne acrylic enamel" it says you can paint toys with it so i thought it was good enough. i wanted to get model paint but couldn't find any. a few coats with a small brush and it looks pretty damn good. i wetsanded all the needles today at work and they looked really smooth clear. i was tempted to stick them in like that :lol:
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So how will they be illuminated if you painted em white?
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light will shine through if he only painted the backs (even if he didn't some light will show through)
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looks real good.. how do you like the fitment of the 6le?
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it honestly fit perfect. absolutely no complaints.
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ok here is a list of what i bought for my 95 lt1 a4. the 6le overlay is clear so i need color leds to maintain factory color. if using the stock gauges, white LED's will show up blue do to the blue film on the stock overlay. you will also have red/orange redlines and you don't necessarily have to change the idiot lights.
7 blue 194's for gauge and needle illumination. 3 blue 194's for high beams and turn signal indicators (**** green). 6 red 194's for check gauges, brake, seat belt, low coolant, air bag, and i switched to red for the low oil instead of orange. 4 amber 194's for security, SES, low trac, and ABS INOP. add 1 if you need skip shift and add 1 more if you need low trac. 2 white 194's for glove box and center console. i would recommend wide angled with 6 led's for maximum illumination. 5 blue 74's for door panel pinholes, shifter plate (a4 only), and HVAC. 3 white 4410's or 212-2's for the rear view mirror and dome light. the original dome light actually hooks around the contacts but i simply bent them inward and it works fine. the mirror will be a direct fit. the lenses pry towards the windshield and fall out. i recommend a pick like a dentist would use. the headlight switch needs an LED soldered in with an appropriate resistor. superbrightleds.com is where i purchased everything. what is difficult with the gauge bulbs is the old filament leads extend down the socket, solder at the bottom, and come back up the sides. i was using a pocket knife to break the solder and pull the lead down from the side. the bulbs won't pull out of the socket, they break. superbrightleds does carry led's already in the sockets, but i didn't see any that would work. some links: http://superbrightleds.com/ http://ledgauges.tripod.com/camaroinstructions.html http://www.keliente.com/knob.htm http://www.fbodyonline.com/install-l...maro-firebird/ good luck. if you have questions i'll do my best to help answer them. 8-) pics one of these days..... |
bookmarked :w00t:
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ok so apparently you can't use an LED in the low coolant light. it will work but the PCM will think the bulb is out due to low resistance. the pcm will then command the fans to operate at low then high speed. use an incandescent bulb instead. pretty smart GM!
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Low coolant light is an idiot light only.... Pretty sure at least. No connection with PCM.
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you my friend, are dead wrong. it fixed the problem as well. here is how i see it.
if you had a coolant leak and the low coolant light came on, but the bulb burned out, well you could overheat the motor rather quick. the pcm will see little or no resistance on the circuit with the blown bulb. in turn, the pcm will command the fans on by itself. i watched my car do it. takes about 30 seconds. so if you are an idiot and your idiot light is burned out, your car will try to save itself. i will show you if you want, the led does not have enough resistance for the pcm to see it lit. i could probably solder in another resistor, but i don't care that much. |
owned by sweettrikerider
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