the haynes manual will give you the specs
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I have never changed spark plugs before, but according to the book for 1986 says .035 inches. so what tools will I need to change them?
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Youtube how to change spark plugs.....youtube and google as much basic automotive repair as you can.
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Go to your local, non-franchised, auto parts store WITH the car. Explain you know little about this field, and need help. Ask for a set of eyes. Say no more. Buy the basic **** they recommend you, after they've spent time with the car. Get to know those guys. Report back then.
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Best way to learn is to dive in. That's how I learned. Yeah stuff got broken along the way but as long as you learn from the mistake its all good. FYI best way to change the plugs on these cars is from underneath
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@greenformula92 I would love to dive into it If I had the space and didn't have to move the car I would do that also If I wasn't working on such a tight budget. I would be looking start building a engine to swap in. But I wouldn't learn anything doing that. Also you advice on keep 305 for now and swap to a 350 sounds like something reasonable. There is no real reason to do a LSX swap unless it will be a drag car and it's a ton of money.
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As far as what you have we need to get the basics done. It will make a HUGE difference as far as getting an actual baseline of where the car is. So do the tune up, fresh gas, new fuel filter, and re route the vac lines. Use other sites for pictures of what your looking for and route the vac lines using the diagram I posted. Until you get a baseline on the car its all speculation |
I really need Help Bad!! So I was able to change the fuel filter. but it seems the spark plugs are stuck in the engine. Also Both me and my mothers boyfriend couldn't figure out where was the right place to jack the car was so I could put it up on stands. so we went under car from front and started jacking up the front end crossmember. Also vacuum lines are still missing and not looking good caps are on hoses j,b,k,t,h,n.
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so I have a question is this the correct place to place the jack stands?
http://i.imgur.com/CAlimiTl.jpg |
Is that the door..?
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no. its not the right place
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does it go in deeper under car there was this grove like looking thing is it suppose to go under that.
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Look under the car. There is a cross member at the rear of the trans thats bolted to both the frame rails. Follow the rails towards the front of the car. When you get close to even with the front on the door place the stands under the frame rails. Your Haynes manual will also show proper jacking and supporting procedures. If your still unclear Google it.
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So I noticed some parts that are missing are where the vacuum hoses run to what parts on a 305 V8 with a carb. do you need and what can you bypass or get rid of.
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Btw is that jack stand on solid ground? Like concrete or pavement? |
@BonzoHansen Yes, I do need someone to help me. The jack stands are on concrete with a thick piece of wood under them I made sure to get some wood at least a 1 1/2" inches thick to support the weight so It wont sink into ground.
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they wont sink into concrete
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so here is what the spark plugs look like. There not bad so I left them alone.
http://i.imgur.com/XTE58crl.jpg |
Those do not look good. Looks like you are not getting enough spark (or none at all) resulting in a rich condition. Time for new plugs.
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are they all the same?
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They look craptastic.
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Yikes, yeah those plugs are done. gap new ones and put them in. You don't need the emissions stuff to make that motor run. Now, I'm not going to repeat what has already been said, but, should you want a hand, I may be willing to come down for a day and help out a bit. I got through my own CCC QJet phase just fine, got it just about perfect, wasn't perfect but it was good enough to light off the back tires for quite a bit. What do you have done so far? I know you're working on it, and read the thread, but hey progress.
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Those plugs are very very done. Not the worst I've seen but still shot. Time for new. Also looks like she's running rich. Could be that the timing is way off but being that you stated the coolant temp sensor isn't hooked up or missing that would make that carb stay in warm up mode dumping fuel. So your initial steps should be replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and get that coolant temp sensor going
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I guess I will pull them all out and put new ones in.
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