Just picked up the test light. yellow wire has no voltage at start. If the starter switch is the same thing as the ignition switch it's brand new. replaced it last week.

Just because it is new doesnt mean it works, sad unfortunate truth. So I would go back further, see if there is power at the hot side of the ignition switch. Should be hot at all times, and maybe red in color..

that was my plan for tomorrow. gonna keep moving back till i find power. is there any component between the ignition switch and the junction box?

you are absolutely right sir. the red wire going into the ignition switch is hot. i'll try replacing it one more time, then i'm goin push-button.

:lol: I have thought about that too! But then you WILL need that relay in the circuit. You will have to put the key in "run" then push the button, so make sure you dont think that will get "old" and annoying before you commit.

If the red wire going into the switch is hot, that wire could be shorting anywhere in the circuit. That does not definitively mean the switch is bad. I bet it is chafing at the tube going down to the starter, some somewhere else under that hood.

To do a push button start, you still need good power in or you will never start your car hot. I already told you my opinion on that anyway. Plus you need the IGN switch for more then start. it has CONST HOT, START, RUN, and ACC settings too. Do not confuse your ignition switch with a start switch.

Edit: Percocet & reading comprehension bad mix, LOL. You mean hot as in has power, not like it is warm. LOL

Buy another switch, change it, take the other one back. You need that switch to work.

I will eventually replace that switch, but right now i just need this car running for all weather transportation purposes. I've been riding my motorcycle everywhere until now but the weather is not gonna hold well enough for that much longer. i've got the button installed, still wont crank. dont get the pegged temp gauge or brake light now though. the lead coming out of the nss is hot, in the engine bay it isn't so i assume that localizes the problem to the dash somewhere. i'm pullin off the pad today and am gonna find the short. after i fix it, i'll try hookin it up to the ign switch again and see if it works.

aight, finally got power to the ignition post but get this: The wire is hot all the way down to the soleniod, but the post it's connected too isn't. wire hot, connected to steel post which is not hot. WTF?!?!?! I'm also only gettin 10.87 volts own to it thanx to havin the doors open for 2 weeks messing with this wiring so the batt's on the trickle tonight. But does this make sense to anyone?

That's odd. So the wire is good all the way to the starter solenoid, but the post on the solenoid doesn't get any power coming out of it?

But if you jump the starter using that post - it starts?

- Justin

yup. but i got it goin today. the ignition post itself is stripped right where it needs threads to clamp down on the wire. i soldered it up and sealed it with silicone. now the push button start works beautifully. should have her on the road this weekend.

to everyone that replied to this thread and put up with my electrical ignorance, thank you very very much. couldn't have done it without you guys.

Cool beans. Give me a shout when it's up and running and you can swing by sometime during the day.

- Justin