Here is the Y pipe installed
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...920_194651.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...920_194617.jpg

I can still get the starter in and out with it in place and the oxygen sensors are tucked and out of the way, at slightly downward angles, yet I can still get them in and out easily

damn im loving that pan clearance

I have been working on the car as much as I can. I got the one spot of rust under the rocker on the passenger side replaced and I get part of the DSE sub frame connector in. I don't have any pictures as I burned out one of the splices to my service in the house when I was out there working. I had the welder on, the lights, an old fan and the air compressor kicked on when I opened the valve. I was going to blow out a potential flame with the air and the compressor was struggling to start and the lights started flickering. I moved to shut the compressor off and then the lights went out. Took me a while to figure out what was going on. I checked the voltage on both legs coming in and one was full and the other was about 5. The local company was there in around an hour and fixed it, but it was dark and late by that time, so no progress pictures on that.

I also ordered more connectors I needed to finish my harness and do some other electrical that I have planned and I did a little more on the harness. I also decided since I have the dash out completely, I am going to put closed cell foam on everything that will not bee seen back there to hopefully eliminate squeaks and rattles. So far I have only done two ducts, but it is a good project to do when I only have a little time after work, or at the end of the night. I use the 1/8" CC foam I got for the decoupling of the MLV sound deadening and the floor/vibration treatment. I am gluing it with some Weldwood contact cement, stuff really gets you out of it before you know what is going on in the basement, lol. Just did this tonight.
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...017_204302.jpg
http://i494.photobucket.com/albums/r...017_204307.jpg

I just lay the piece on top and rough trace it out, then cut the foam inside the line. I am finding that the contact cement is softening up the plastic and it becomes a little larger than the size needed. This is just rough work since it is not going to be seen. If I was really into it, I would cover all the seams with thin strips of foam, but that isn't going to make a difference.
I also plan on putting extra foam in the air duct joints to try to close those up. With the handling on my part and the age of the factory foam, it probably won't seal as well once I put it all back together. I am also going to wrap some of the wiring and connectors in the dash that I think may cause noise. I will also get to the main dash piece once I get closer to final install since it is still in the car and I move it back and forth a lot when working in there.

Well, a lot of time has gone by, but I am almost done with the car. I don't have many pictures to show, but the entire drivetrain is done and the interior is about 1/3 of the way done. I actually took it for a quick drive down the street and right back to the garage, felt good. I have a lot of little stuff to button up, front sheet metal, then right to the car wash.

I just ordered some new fender ground effect pieces since one original broke and the other won't last long, also a new overflow, mirror gaskets and the little Firebird trim pieces that cover the screw in the handle escutcheon. I am only getting new mirror gaskets since I am going to be taking them off to put in Corvette heated mirrors and the old gaskets are probably dried out. I will also have to do the door weatherstrip since I took one off and it tore a little, I will just glue that for now and stick it back on.
In addition to the Vette mirrors I have done a few other additions. I added an AAW dome light module, it keeps the dome on for a period after shutting the door (with a potentiometer) and will shut off the dome immediately with the ignition on. I will be adding a GM XM antenna on the roof since the Sirius antenna mounted in the defrost vent on the dash isn't the best spot. I am also adding a DEI window closer module and I have upgraded the wiring to 10 gauge from the measly factory 14 or 16 gauge, between the wiring and having cleaned and greased the tracks when I put the new window motors in the windows should practically shoot out of the tracks. I am also putting in door lighting to shine on the ground when the door is opened and lighting behind the door handle that will be activated by the door unlock and put on a timer.
When I had the dash out for fixing/adding wiring I also did the requisite FatMat on the firewall and added Mass Loaded Vinyl over that but behind the factory jute pad for extra vibration dampening and sound proofing. I only got as far as the rear foot area of the floor. I ran out of MLV to do the rest of the interior, so I will have to order another roll, it is quite expensive and heavy. BUT the car should be even more quiet on the inside. I am hoping with all the foam I did in the dash, SFCs and sound deadening I can eliminate most of the squeaks and rattles inside the car.

Get some pics of those little details, I love that stuff. It'll have some of the creature comforts that are expected in a modern car with great classic lines, my favorite :nod:

When I get home tonight I will take a bunch of pictures.

I hate that it has taken me so long to get the car done, it will be a year in 3 days since I posted about the "freeze plug" that actually turned out to be the water pump gasket and what started this whole overhaul. I am pretty happy with the additions I have decided to do like the lighting. There are a few other things I am adding. The Fog lights would only come on with the running lights, but I would like them to serve as DRLs essentially, so I am rewiring the FL relay to ignition instead of the headlight switch, so they will come on with the switch instead of the headlights only. I also have some LEDs to put in place of the halogen bulb, but I have to modify the fog light aiming bracket since the LED has a huge heat sink on the back and I will have to cut a small part of the bumper that the light sits in since I think the sink will hit the bumper. I also have to mount the tow strap in the bumper in this area for the upcoming USCA race at NJMP later this year.

^This. Stuff like this is refreshing to see.

Oh crap, is driving 8-)

http://www.njfboa.org/forums/attachm...1&d=1496324392

Oh, and I took no pictures like I said I was going to :lol: :nod: :facepalm:

I still have to put the rocker GFX on and get the POS Hawks fender GFX painted. The one Hawks piece is like 5/8" too tall, so I am going to have to trim it, then sand the crap out of it to make it look nice. I contacted them about it and they acknowledged that all of them are like that, so now they have to go back to the manufacturer and have them fix it. Royally sucks, I mean it is nice that they are making them, but they obviously didn't do any QA on them after they got the first ones and this is like a year since they started offering them.

After the GFX, I still have to put the rest of the interior back in. I just finished the fog lights last night and got the nose back on

Looks good! Let me know if you want to trade those black cross laces for some gold cross laces :)

Looks awesome dude.

Inspection sticker *JUST* expired. I know it doesn't matter, but still LOL

sweet

I have a set of cross laces that are blasted, just need painting and polishing, or I have the Hawks 17" ones that I just need tire for, lol. They are almost too nice for this car :kneeslap: Do you want the black ones?

LMAO, I didn't think about that it was expired, I thought it was for July. But as I was walking in to work I was thinking that I need to scrape it off, lol. I got an actual letter from MVC saying I don't need inspection anymore and to keep that paper in the car. I'll scrape it tonight :lol:

I'll bring your tools back tonight or tomorrow

Do you know if there is an aftermarket solution that will lower a window when a door is opened and raise it back up when it is shut? I thought you said you bought a module but it looks like its just the alarm control version.

I did buy a module, but it is specifically not compatible for that function. Mine is just a simple express up/down

What would you want that for?

My buddy wants it on his second gen. To clarify, the window drops about an inch when you open the door and raises back up an inch when you close it. You know how these things suck between the top of the glass and the weatherstripping, his is ttop as well, so we were trying to find a solution that also modernizes the car. I think 90s thunderbirds have it and its probably not that complicated to retrofit into his car. Let me know if you come across anything on a forum etc. Thanks.

I know my cousins wifes, I want to say 2010?, Mustang also does that, but an older car would be easier to steal and re-purpose for something like that. If you find something, post it up. It would be a good thing for some cars. I don't think it is a big deal on the second gens, but I don't have any experience with any of them with T-tops either. I can see the merit

2nd gen windows probably move slow too slow to work like that unless you rewire them to use relays. which you'd probably need to do anyway if you retrofit anything. must be a t top thing. hard top car has nothing in the way

I mean its not terrible but it would definitely help. I'll start exploring it and will post up if I do anything.

OK, first hot day with the car in the sun and I forgot the windshield shade, the black aluminum shift knob HAS to go. Later even with something covering the knob it was still almost too hot to touch. :lol: I found some carbon fiber knobs, but I think they may also still be too hot. I guess I'll look for something in leather.

Also I got a Fumoto drain valve for it to make oil changes easier. I also got one for the BBC, but I got the plain short one for that since the plug points straight down on the pan. I also got the spacer since the oil plug is recessed in the JZ pan, like the factory F-body.
I am almost due/past due for an oil change since the oil in the engine has been in there for a while, but I changed it when I had originally put this engine in the Camaro. I already put over 500 miles on the swap in just ~two weeks. I am almost to the interval from when I had the 3.1 in the car, so I will go by that.
https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/...ver_Back_2.jpg

Just having fun driving it and seeing how low I can get in gear with the torque. First fill up I got just under 20mpg, 19 and change, but I couldn't keep my foot out of it. This one I have been keeping nice with the go pedal and up shifting as soon as possible. The Torque app says I am getting mid 20's for my average, and I think is possible. I have 350 miles on this tank already, I'll fill up and check again tonight, I forgot last night :-?
I am going to try my hand now at doing a flash using a manual Camaro tune, but moving as many of the 4.8 tables over as I can. Not sure if it will work or not, but the AC wouldn't turn the compressor on with the truck tune, and I NEED AC in the car, plus I would like to reverse lockout to work. I am tired of fighting the solenoid.

you think that picture is big and clear enough?

I used to have the black speed inc knob in my ls1 but yea, felt like this ....

https://vignette3.wikia.nocookie.net...20080521012512

i just swapped that to the lt1 for the leather hurst one that was in it

LMFAO

Filled up after work, got just under 24mpg. That was a lot of highway, but at 75-80 and the rest was stop and go but trying to play nice with the gas pedal. Pretty happy with that and once I get cruise control in it I should get excellent highway economy. So I approximately doubled the power, same or slightly better fuel mileage as the V6 and I got my manual transmission. Sure beats the Suburban!

Tonight I also fixed the fuel level needle, I put it in the wrong position when I did the LED lighting, it would show full for around 3/4 of the tank and half tank was really empty. I hope I got it now, it's a big pain to try and move it.
Also got the seat belt guide for the stock seat cut off nicely so it can be reused. Since I put the GTA seats in I don't need the old guides

The whole time I was out there working, a baby praying mantis was running around on the hood, funny little insects

when are we cruising?!!