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The big one
On my car, a fully loaded 1995 Camaro Z28, I have a power lock problem. Â*Currently people who I have shown this problem to are flabergasted and tell me its something else. Â*Ive had about 2 different "proffesional" opinions none of them make sence.
When I bought the car in October, the power locks button did not work. Â*You would press the button and nothing would happen (on both sides) but the previous owner insisted they worked, yet he didnt know why. Â*If you spark the battery on positive, you will hear the locks lock & unlock. Â*It was sold WITHOUT the original key-less entry pad. Â*The owner said they were lost by a previous owner. Now in November, I had an aftermarket alarm system installed. Â*One of the techs said the keyless entry was not working with the new system, and said it would have to be "activated" by GM, and that they had to remove a previous aftermarket alarm system. So a month or so later, I went to my local chevy dealer, and tried to explain to the guy at the counter what my problem was. Â*That the alarm was installed, and I had no power locks still or keyless entry. Â*A friend from another forum had said the same thing happened to him, and he had to rewire his entire alarm system in the car, and it was a good chance the Keyless entry module was no good. Â*The tech looked at me like I spoke french, and insisted I check for shorts, or cut wires. Well my dad and I took off the door handles to inspect for any obvious cut wires, it was too cold out to even begin to take off the door panels. Well within a week the battery started to die for unknown reasons, one night I went outside and I heard a motor spinning inside the drivers side door. Â*I didnt know what it was, but the only way for it to stop was to hold the button down for the locks. Â*So my solution was to stick a nail and hold the button down. Â*Now this has caused my stereo to come back on after I have opened & closed the door (killing the battery) Â*The way its supposed to work is the radio should stay on untill the door is opened, even with the key out of the ignition. Now what the hell is wrong with it? My power windows work, everything works except for my power locks, and keyless entry. Â*Boon (MisterJuice) & Joe (89TransAmWS6) have listened to it, and didnt understand it.Â*It just sounds like a motor spinning uncontrolably in the drivers side door. Cliffnotes : - No powerlocks - No keyless entry - Wierd motor sound |
Have you still not taken the door panel off?
- Justin |
Motor spinning? I would buy a cheap motor off ebay and replace it right away. My trunk pull down did the same thing and the only way to stop the motor spinning was to unplug it under the trunk panel. Or you can just get a wiring diagram for a 95 Z and follow it right to the power source or battery.
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I have almost the same problem. About a year ago both my power door locks stopped working. I started by replacing both buttons (drivers side was already broken). Didn't work. Pulled both plastic panels off that hold the locks/window/mirror switches and checked the wiring. Everything looked good. I never actually got them working again so I'm pretty much in the same boat. Everything else on the panel works (windows and mirrors) so it's gotta be somewhere else.
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so do you have a keyless entry pad?....the weirdest thing happened to me before, the battery in my keyless entry bob died and would over time drain the battery for some reason, try that
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Quote:
I was tempted to pull someone elses 1995 body control module, alittle box located in the passenger side kick pannel that controlls all that crap and see if that works. And I think Jon and maybe one other person that have a 1995 6-speed car, thats full loaded. Theirs only 2 motors in the door panel, power windows, and power locks. They both work, because they are both making the apropriate noises. One time I actually got the doors to lock and unlock with the passenger side button. And the reason I havent taken off the door panels is (they most likely wont go on the same way) and I dont have a special tool to remove the clips and re-use them. And their should be no reason that the door panels were ever removed if anything its in the stearing colum area, or the BCM is no good. |
WTF?
What special tool do you need to remove the door panel? Ive had mine off countless times..there is no special too bro. A Few screws and then pop it upward, its lifts right off. SEcond of all You said you had an aftermarket alarm..? Then that rules out the "remote entry" module or watever your talking about, it has nothign at all todo with an aftermarket alarm But like i said, the only way to have something stay running, is with a shotrt. Where it be a short to power or a short to ground, I dont know, id have to look at a schematic of it to tell you, depending if the circuit is ground controlled or power controlled.Just A break in the wire wont keep a circuit running. What you need to do is take off the door panel and unplug the connector from the buttons. see if the noise stops. If it does, the problem is your buttons. Simple as that. Dont you have to keep your nail shoved in their to make it stop? sounds like buttons to me. joe |
i dunno how to hook the power locks up my motor turns on both sides but it doesent look to be connected to the lock thingy i have no idea and it pisses me off
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this thread makes my head hurt :x
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ok i just need to put my 2 cents in here.
first.. if you hear somthing "spinning" in your door constantly, take the door panel off and see what it is., just to be certain, and recheck your interior buttons. second, as far as i know, the bcm does not control the locks, they are controlled byt the keyless entry box on the pass side, I think the bcm is under the dash on driver side. i have sold a few keyless entry modules to replace situations just like yours but yours may be more in depth. third, a break in a wire causing a short could be the cause, if a wire in the door or door jamb is cut and grounds out to the body, the circuit will be closed and the corresponding electric motor will activate since many window and door lock systems and constant power with ignition on and with the switches just providing the ground to finish the circuit. (door locks are always hot) or even a misplaced trim screw under the dash that peirces a wire could cause a short. fourth...with an aftermarket alarn, if it comes with keyless enty(regardless of the the car had stock or not) it will operate the door locks remotely if wiried correctly. My suggestion would be to bypass the factory keyless entry all together. To do that, your aftermarket alarm system(if equipped for keyless entry) will have specific wires coming out that would get spliced into the wiring under the dash that goes directly to the actuator motor or switch, instructions should explain. As llong as your interior door lock buttons work. It may get confusing to get them to work properly if they arent but its not difficult. If all else fails, youd need to rewire the locks from the fuse box to the doors yourself, with that way wiring in an aftermarket keyless entry would be a breeze. as for the door panel, they are easy to remove, the plastic "christmas tree" clips can be removed with a pair of wire crimpers even, and the armrest i think is just torx screws. and most panels come off much easier with the wndow down. In order to fix this yourself, you need to trouble shoot the problem one step at a time. If you want, in a few weeks, i would have time on a saturday or sunday to check it out and see if i can find the problem, like many people know, ive dealt with these cars quite a bit and i know what i'm doing with electronics and wiring. I am in thr process of installing a remote entry kit on my monte with shaved door handles, very easy job and yours is similar. LT!freak94, there are metal rods that connect from the actuators to the latch which open the doors. if the roods are missing, they can be made from solid wire, or the rods and needed clips can be bought cheaply or found in a local junkyard and gotten free there. |
Hey SmokinSS, I may take you up on the offer for help. I'll email you.
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