350 - 396ci?
 

Im looking at a motor from http://www.golensengineservice.com/ its a 396ci LT4 Long Block.

The 396's specs are:
Block: Thermally cleaned and Stainless Steel Shot. Inspected by MPI process. Decked, bored, honed with torque-plates and pressure washed. Clevite cam bearings and pioneer brass freeze plugs installed.
4-bolt main caps and ARP main studs.
Crank: Eagle 4340 forged steel 3.875� internal balance
Rods: Scat 4340 forged steel, 6� length floating pin.
Pistons: SRP forged
Rings: Speed Pro Plasma-Moly
Bearings: Clevite Main and Rod Bearings
Core Plugs: Brass Pioneer core plugs
Main Studs: ARP Performance main studs
Lifters: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Pushrods: Comp Cams High Energy
Valve Springs: Comp Cams
Rocker Arms: Comp Cams Aluminum Full-Roller 1.5 Ratio
Timing Set: GM LT4 roller timing set
Timing Cover: Recon Aluminum timing cover
Oil Delivery: Melling high volume pump, pickup tube and HD Drive
Oil Pan: New factory 5-quart
Gasket Set: Fel-Pro Performance
Head Bolts: ARP Performance Hex Head


Can this motor be built using my current stock block at a cheaper price then $7,899.00? Is it worth the new set up? or is it even safe on a stock 350ci LT1 block?

Also I'm just curious, how do you get a 396ci out of a 350?

from what it says in the specs, it is a stock block, so I dont see why you couldn't use yours.

and to get 396ci, you need a whole lot of stroke! the block definitly needs to get clearanced for that setup.

there was a 94 Z28 in chevy high performance about a year ago that had a 396 LT1 in it....****ING SICK! it had a hit of nitrous on it too, ran in the 10's.

talk to injuneer on here, if anyone can point ya in the right direction for big cube lt1's its him 8)

I think the 396 is is a 4.100 bore and 4.125 stroke (don't quote me on that). Doable with a stock block it will never be cheap. The rotating assembly alone if you get a good one will cost you close tp $2500. Plus about $1000 worth of block work, plus fasteners, good gaskets, Etc, Etc. Then you need to machine the heads or put on new one's $1500-$2500, plus the rockers $300+. I;d say that is a pretty good deal for a 396. Personally I would go for the 480HP 383. Keep the extra $1000 and use it for gas. You won't notice the difference on the street.

a 4.100 bore/4.125 stroke comes out to 435ci.

I don't remember bore x stroke for the 396, but I know you can use the stock block.

Unstable Bob has (or had?) a 396 LT1 that he was going to put the 4 valve heads on. That would have made for a killer setup :)

- Justin

4.030" x 3.875"

even if you woudl save a few bucks to use your own block can you really live with the down time? once you piece together every little thing and get all teh machine work done you are looking at an absolute minimum of 2 weeks, more than like it will be 1.5 months.


later
tim

Yes those motors are from a stock block.

Yes I'll guess you can do it a little cheaper. They are using all quality parts on that motor, and that motor comes with fully ported trickflow heads.

So by using your block and head you could probably save $1,000-$1,500.

396 crank, 6"rod and pistons aren't cheap and getting all the machine work done to the block/heads and having the rotating assembly balanced is going to be a large portion of the cost too. Using an aftermarket Timing chain set and elec. water pump is cheaper then the extreme timing set.


I really question the use of a stock pan? You have to "adjust" the pan to clear the throw of the crank. You'd be much better off going with a Canton Pan.

If the car is going to see allot of street use you may want to consider the 383. I was told a 396 has allot more sideload onto the piston walls so it would most likely not have the longevity of a 383.


JB

:stupid:

Later,

Santos