HeadGaskets
 

Does anyone know of any good tech write ups? Is it in a Chiltons or Haynes manual? Any tips? Possibly man hours? Â*Any other performance mods I could slip in besides, Heads, Cam, & RR's? Â*Should I just drop the motor via the K-member?

I was warned about a possible future blown head-gasket, not to mention my rear intake seal is leaking:( and I think this is going to be my huge winter project, where I might actually do it myself!!!

to just do a head gasket will take you most of a day. the biggest thing to have info on is troque sequence and specs. the rest of it is just unbolting and rebolting everything back where it belongs.
it is usually faster to swap a whole motor than do head gaskets in car :twisted:

later
tim

lol, head gaskets on an LT1 in the car, i give you credit. with how tight those are engine compartments are, i would hate to do it. If i ever have to, i'm droping the k member out, doing them, then putting the motor and trans back in, thats the easiest way IMO, but even that isnt as easy as it sounds. You should be able to do the head gaskets yourself with a good manual and a good set of tools, and if you do a cam and such just follow the recommened break in procedures.

and alex everyone's rear main seal leaks, it's like a fact of life

not the rear main, but the rear of the intake. Common problem on LT1's

ah.

ive got a chilton's u can borrow if u want

beware of chiltons/haynes books. they went 1 for 22 on fasterthanyou's engine swap.

later
tim

Where the hell's he been?

It's not that bad! Â*I had to pull my heads off 3 times this year! :shock:

Some suggestions:

Why are you being warned about future blown gaskets? Â*Just get good gaskets. Â*I would suggest FelPro 1074. Â*They will give you .5 more compression and handle a fair amount of boost or NOS.

There seems to be mixed feelings about the Comp Cam Type-R lifters. Â*I used them on two engines without any problems, you just need to make sure you lash them correctly. Â*

Â*My other suggestion is that you should look into running an electric water pump. Â*If you switch to a E.P. you can run a double roller timing chain that cost about $60 as oppose to the big buck LT4/ heavy duty GM timing chain.

Â*Depending on how big a cam your installing or possible future mods I'd also suggest porting the intake to accpet a 58MM Â*throttle body. Â*Now a 58mm is too much for a 305 or Hot Cam, a 52mm will be more then enough, but you might as well port the intake while you have it off.

At best it's a full two day job if you have some help AND don't have any problems. Â*The big issues on the LT1 is the removal of the collant tube that connects the two heads, removing the crank hub. Â*Then for the install getting all the seals in the timing chain cover on correctly so they don't leak. Â*There is just so much crap on the front of the engine to remove that takes allot of time. Â*

Main thing is to take your time and keep everything clean.

I have a very detailed write up, somewhere? Â*It was done years ago my the MAFBA crew. Â*I'll try to find it.

Here are a few on-line write-ups that I know of.

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

http://shbox.com/ci/cam_removal.html

Im already running a Meizer right now. As far as cam, i was just going to keep it real with the LT4 "Hot-Cam" Kit, their Cam (similar to the cc305) and it comes with their rockers, springs, and other misc. stuff.

I defenitly plan on doing this in the winter in my garage. So this info will defenitly come in handy.